Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

aww man, if farking JAP

okay first plan of action

check with whom ever it was who turned it into a clock concealed timer cos he has obviously managed to install it with jap instruction.

second, why are these boost gauges dead

ecu is not in the boot

its in the passenger kick panel

under the glove box and to your left, just under the factory flare in that panel

it comes off quite simply and then the ecu sits there.

i dont see why the gauges both died at the same time, because if the dash one is electronic then yeah maybe a wire problem, but if the blitz one is dead thats weird cos its a mechanical gauge.

the vacuum line is all that is involved in making it move.

which means the car is not providing a reading to the vacuum line, which means the line must not be connected.

i dont get any other explanation

I think the vacuum hose blew off the back of the gauge,

that would make more sense.

Especially if both the gauges died

i just dont get it hey

if its not resolved by the weekend. i will come round if thats cool. and maybe we can go through the wires and the lines.

yeah riaz, good idea - my dad was getting worried didnt know wat else was going 2 **** up but i told him it was alright and i would get it fix.

And today i notic the chick factory to the skyline. after work my mates rock up with some girls that work at macca's and one ask me to take her home and smile at me like she wanna 2 hook up this was wired cuz she never talk 2 me at work at all.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
    • Did you find that your voltage of the battery wasn't where it's normally supposed to be? for example on my r34, it's at 14.5v when running after a few seconds, but I noticed when I had a rough start and it initially wasn't idling correctly, the voltage on my triple gauge cluster was showing lower than usual. Seems like the alternator is starting to crap itself
×
×
  • Create New...