Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi this is my first post.

I have recently bought an R32 GTS25 4 door for my first car. I took it to get a roadworthy and the mechanic said the brakes are possibly undersize, due to this he won't give me the roadworthy.

On the front the diameter is 28cm and the width is 23.5cm.

The back diameter is 26cm and the width is 15cm.

I need to know the diameter and the minimum thickness.

I can find no information for what an R32 GTS25 4 door is supposed to be, even at DBA.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88306-need-help-with-r32-brakes/
Share on other sites

Use the same as for the R33 GTS4 (a 4WD version of your 4-door). The fronts are 280mm diameter, and min 24.2mm thickness. So it seems your rotors have been machined a bit too thin.

Unfortunately, they don't seem to make a rear. You might need to mortgage your house and get a pair from Nissan. Perhaps try some of the wreckers first, though.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've always approached this as, price is comparable between low temp and high temp fluid. Just put in the high temp fluid. I've not going to lose any sleep thinking about could I have saved $20 on brake fluid that is going to live in the car over the next 2 to 3 years. 
    • Nah, the creases were pretty large, and the sheet metal is pretty thin and hard to work out, time alone is in the hours to fix, and would probably have more bog than I would be happy with In other, more happy news, I gave MX5 Mania a call and they have a few clean boots available for $400 a peice, I've contacted Fineline and given them their contact details, I'm a idiot for not thinking of them sooner
    • That really depends on how hot the brakes get and how much of any heat is transferred into the fluid. That really makes it at least a vehicle specific question, and more than like a specific vehicle specific question, depending on what brakes (ie stock, bigger rotors, different calipers) or even what pads are on it. And then there's the question of cooling air. Is there plenty stock? Is there no special cooling arrangements stock? Has some/more been added? In other words, I think you have to do the experiment to obtain the data. And if you;re worried - tie on some ducting?
    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
    • For anyone that comes here looking for answers on what can go wrong with gts-4 to rb25detneo swap. The Gloria's awd sump is different and does not fit. The rb25neo from stagea are exactly the same sump bolt pattern and axel alignment. Castings numbers are different on Gloria's blocks and oilpans if they need to be identified.
×
×
  • Create New...