Rb26 Run In Oil

[druzilla32]

im sure there would be a topic on this somewhere but search didtn get me anything.. so if you know the link that would be great

if not,

what oil should i use to run in my rb26dett?

it get put back in the car tomorrow.

i want the best run in oil

[IOWNU]

Well my mechanic said to start of with a mineral oil for some reason, then after xxx kms move on to semi-synthetic, then after another xxx kms move on the synthetic.......don't think that really helps lol......but yeah, I haven't got my car back yet either so i'd be interested to hear brand names etc.

Must be glad to get it back!

[druzilla32]

yeah i have heard that mineral oil is what to use to run it in.

[Bobjones]

Dru, do a search, I posted a very detailed run in procedure for all engines, also Motul and Pennzoil have specific run in oils that you can get, some from Autobarn from memory!!!

[gtrken]

I am sure there will be w/shops who say it's wrong but this is what we do.

Valvoline LoVis mineral oil in with new filter.

Run engine for about 1/2 hr or until well warm.

Refill again with Lo Vis and new filter ( as all engines have particles in them and need to be removed from the engine asap so hopefully will be trapped in the filter).

Do 500km at moderate revs and load and change again.

Put on a semi sythnetic based oil and up the load/revs but not flat out till about 1,000km.

Put onto full synthetic ( we use Mobil 1) and belt away....

Cheers

Ken

[druzilla32]

Dru, do a search, I posted a very detailed run in procedure for all engines, also Motul and Pennzoil have specific run in oils that you can get, some from Autobarn from memory!!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

did you read my post?

i did search.. i searched "RB26 run in oil"

thanks ken

[Cubes]

I pretty much did what GTRken described.

I used a plain mineral oil with ZERO friction modifiers.

Mineral Motul 10w30 until 10,000km's then went synthetic.

I had to wire open the wastegate and get some decent load in to it as it was trying to boost 10-12psi under 2000rpm at wot.

[maccattack]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=84571&hl=

[Bobjones]

Thanks Peter,

And yes Ken I read your post, maybe you should try searching under OTHER things...

As I have already said Motul make a specific run in oil, mineral based. Same with Pennzoil...maybe have a look on their sites, and as I said in the thread above, if your engine builder cannot give you a detailed run in procedure...get another engine builder!!!

[druzilla32]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=84571&hl=

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

thanks

[druzilla32]

Thanks Peter,

if your engine builder cannot give you a detailed run in procedure...get another engine builder!!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

i am helping the builder out a lot with the build, and if i can question what he thinks and suggest different ideas then why not

thanks

[Bobjones]

i am helping the builder out a lot with the build, and if i can question what he thinks and suggest different ideas then why not

thanks

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I am not disagreeing with the above, I have built many engines, however I will never proclaim to be an encyclopedia nor a professional engine builder. Also the info on the internet can be somewhat muddied at times.

He should have a plan especially for the run in, taking into consideration the engine characteristics, including but not limited to, honing, type of pistons, rings, clearances, squish, bearings etc etc etc

At the end of the day, you did ask for run in oil and you have your answer... :lol:

[2Fast 2Furious]

I know this post is old but this may help someones understanding of the above in the future. I hope

Anyway. To the best of my knowledge since mineral oil reduces friction less then the synthetics, it helps aid the bedding in process. If u went for a synthetic oil straight off it would take far longer to run ur engine in, as the aim of the synthetic is minimal ware.

[Mumbo#5]

i would never use a fully or semi synthetic in a new engine. I ended up using valvoline mono-grade 30w oil for my run in. waited around 1500k's then changed oil and filter with motul turbo-light 4100.. its working a treat... but with most run-in 'procedures' just drive it like ur gonna drive it.. buit i didnt within he first 3-400 k's.. but after then... strap it..

each to their own.. time for sleep too many bourbans

Bubye

[Sydneykid]

We do basically what gtrken posted....

Castrol GTX (the basic no frills mineral oil) with new filter.

Run engine for about 1/2 hr or until well warm.

Change oil filter. Engines can have particles in them that acccumulate during the build/maching proces and they need to be removed from the engine ASAP, these are caught in the oil filter. If you leave them in, the oil filter can get blocked and so will be bypassed.

Check basic tune on the dyno or on the road with portable lambda sensor.

Drive to Bathurst and back, lots of varying conditions, up and down hills, freeway, long climbs etc

Refill with Castyrol Formula R Synthetic, new oil filter.

Do leak down test, if OK then final tune on the dyno.

Go racing

Cheers

Edited October 1, 2005 by Sydneykid

[Dale FZ1]

SK's advice/practice is also similar to that used for new motorcycles. Remember Jap bikes also have an integral gearbox design, with shift quality closely linked (and really obvious to the rider) to a good run-in. Mineral oils allow more effective bed-in between surfaces, and there are many reports of a result similar to bore glazing from guys who thought they were looking after their engines by using a synthetic from new.

Brand of oil probably less important, but do use mineral oil for a period of hours, then go to synthetic.