Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Dynoed Rb20det

Waldo

By Waldo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Waldo Proficient

Waldo

Posted
Posted

hey guys just got my rb20 tuned and finished today, its didnt pull the power i wanted but i think this is due to lack of boost, i have high flowed turbs and all the supporting mods to run over 320rwhp, but when they went to tune it at 18psi, it would spike there then drop straight back to 12psi, wat is the deal there, there is no leaks in the cooler pipin anywhere as they thoroughly went over them, could this be the actuator on the turbo giving in, or would it be the stock bov opening up? how to i test these 2 things, any recommendations on wat it is would be greatly appreciated. So atm its tuned on 12psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88513-just-dynoed-rb20det/
Share on other sites
Waldo Proficient

Waldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thats the thing, they installed my apexi boost kit for the power fc, they said it wasnt working very well because it kept losing so much boost and couldnt hold it at 18psi at all, so i gave them my old manual boost controller, and they tuned it for 12psi and said that the manual one worked a bit better and wasnt so spiky, they still couldnt get it to stay at 18psi with the manual boost kit.

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

I found my stock actuator would drop back to 10-11psi at any boost above that.

An aftermarket adjustable would be well worth a look for 2 reasons: 1) you can set a higher base boost on the actuator and so are garanteed of that whatever your ebc does, and 2) The higher the base you set, the easier it will be for the ebc to do it's job and as a result you will have a more stable system with less spiking and a flat line to redline.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

I also have a feeling the stock actuators aren't that good at holding anything above 10psi, unless combined with a decent EBC to pulse it.. Mine can sit on 13-14psi, but always dribbles back to 10-11psi in the higher rev range.

It may be one of those varying things - some factory ones may be fine, others get old and not so good.

I've got an RB20 and RB25 actuator sitting around, should do a couple of swaps and see which is better (onto rb25 turbo).

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

No.

Boost ramps up harder.

Try not to think about it too much. It works, that is why adjustable rods were created. :blink:

The RB25/VG30 actuator is quite soft and can be adjusted by hand, the RB20 on the other hand requires a big dirty screw driver to be levered against the elbow.

Edited by Cubes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
    • Lithium
      Compressor flow comparison table

      By Lithium · Posted

      BTW, the reason I came in here to "update" this list was that the Garrett G Series II range have been released and I've updated the list with their flow details if you're curious to check how they fit with previous Garretts and other brands The G-Series II G35 990 looks like a banger...
    • Lithium
      Compressor flow comparison table

      By Lithium · Posted

      Hi all, I thought I'd put one of these references in here before but it seems I haven't - not sure how many people are actually using this place still but I feel like there are guys lurking about who might find this reference useful or interesting.  A lot of the time people don't catch key details or even fully understand how compressor maps work - or don't even look at them and just go from heresay about deciding how different turbos may compare, but I've been putting together this table over the years as a quick reference to get a gauge of how certain compressors compare to cut down the time that can be wasted looking around aimlessly. * This relates purely to compressor flow, so won't necessarily reflect the outright capabilities of these turbos as the power potential also comes down to the turbine side.  If you understand this, you should be able to use this 😃 * The inducer and exducer size listed are the mm of just the compressor wheel * The values under the "psi" headings are "lb/min airflow" and reflect the maximum airflow that compressor supports before it's efficiency dips under 65%, or it reaches it's maximum speed - whichever comes first. Any questions, or requests for other turbos which the compressor map is available for then let me know 🙂
    • MBS206
      R32GTR R200 reverting from Nismo centre to stock

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And what you pay for a pack of 8 bolts and nuts at Bunnings, will land me 200 of the same nuts and bolts from a fastener shop.   M12 * 1.25 IS a standard. It's not like ordering M12x1.25 and hoping the thread pitch is right. Unlike ordering an ounce, will get you 4 different amounts depending on which ounce someone takes it to be. Your issue is a supply issue.
    • dyl33
      How To Replace/drain Coolant From Radiator And Block Rb25det [video]

      By dyl33 · Posted

      I believe that is correct
×
×
  • Create New...