Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I own an SI R33 and have the standard seats. Now im 6 foot and have the seat all the way back and the seat almost vertical so as to be close to the wheel to help judge the corners better. Driving it hard my left foot is still cramped and its hard to let the clutch out all the way. Now i was thinking about getting some racing seats and wanted to know how low do the actually make the driving position? Has anyone else had this problem and has a similar prefrence in driving position? -- Whats the best solution?

If only the bloody steering wheel was adjustable it would all be good! :(

Thanks

-Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88523-driving-position/
Share on other sites

What you mean by adjustable? My wheel adjusts up and down. You can buy a spacer to extend the reach.

Regarding racing seat, your only choice is to get a fixed bucket with fixed rails that mount on the sides of the seats. Any other combo will sit you close to standard height, making the project a waste of money.

These seats are legal as long as you passenger seat operates as std (ie: not fixed bucket), or you remove your rear seats and rego the car as a 2 seater.

Do you have a sunroof? As i am also 6" and have no problem with seating position, but my head is close to the roof lining. My car does not have a sunroof.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88523-driving-position/#findComment-1598214
Share on other sites

Thanks Al.

Yeah the spacer would probably be the way to go. The buckets will add more support though so in time i mite invest in that.

Nah no sunroof but headroom is not tht much of a prob. ... my clutch is on its way out and it picks up late in the pedal travel, thts why its so annoying.

Are the spacers easy to install? How much do they usually set u back?

-Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88523-driving-position/#findComment-1598323
Share on other sites

Iam 6'3 and I haven't had any problems with driving, but put racing seats into the car and as the floor pan isn't totaly flat. The seat sits a little higher that the standard ones now, and they are nice fitting race seat, I can see a little bit more of the road but my legs have come closer to the stearing wheel but still no problems!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88523-driving-position/#findComment-1598659
Share on other sites

Aftermarket wheel only champ. It's basically just a 2" long machined aluminium tube flanged & drilled at both ends to mate between boss & wheel. drilled for Momo & Sparco pattern both ends. Also the black flexi rubber tube that comes with aftermarket bosses slips over it perfectly. If you have/can find a spare one, no hassles from Mr Plod.

http://www.sparcousa.com/psteering_acc.asp?id=380

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88523-driving-position/#findComment-1605992
Share on other sites

Aftermarket wheel only champ. It's basically just a 2" long machined aluminium tube flanged & drilled at both ends to mate between boss & wheel. drilled for Momo & Sparco pattern both ends. Also the black flexi rubber tube that comes with aftermarket bosses slips over it perfectly. If you have/can find a spare one, no hassles from Mr Plod.

http://www.sparcousa.com/psteering_acc.asp?id=380

Thanks champ, too bad I cannot afford a aftermarket wheel at the moment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88523-driving-position/#findComment-1605994
Share on other sites

I have a similar problem with my knees hitting the steering wheel... It makes it hard to heal & toe.

I'm the exact same with my knees on the steering wheel and i'm not that tall (but I like to sit upright in a car)

Really annoys me and the steering wheel is up as high as it will go (which isn't that high really)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88523-driving-position/#findComment-1606008
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...