Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

standard boost when it is disconnected because it has a bleed on the vaccuum line that feeds from the engine after the solenoid that prevents it from overboosting if the solenoid fails/disconnects, i had to install my boost controller on the turbo side of my engine after the solenoid and the vaccuum feed, just before the wastegates. i think i remember reading the t-piece that feeds the line is between the head and the firewall...round the back of the engine...

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey this is a great thread and should be stickied.

I have *never* seen so many clear explainations of how boost is controlled it is great.

A must read for all turbo n00bs.

standard boost when it is disconnected because it has a bleed on the vaccuum line that feeds from the engine after the solenoid that prevents it from overboosting if the solenoid fails/disconnects, i had to install my boost controller on the turbo side of my engine after the solenoid and the vaccuum feed, just before the wastegates. i think i remember reading the t-piece that feeds the line is between the head and the firewall...round the back of the engine...

Wrong. You disconnect the stock solenoid and leave the pipes open it will FREE BOOST.

It's simple.

There is a T under the back of the plenum. It T's 1 to the wastegates, 1 to the solenoid. Now if the solenoid failed.. my guess would be it would stay closed which would give you stock boost.

You remove the solenoid however you are now BLEEDING air from the wastegates, and we all know what you get when you bleed air away from them.. a boost increase.

Now the other end of the solenoid simply bleeds air back to the intake pipe. (for emissions etc)

To install a boost controller in the stock position, you need to block the pipe right at the rear of the plenum (the T), and run a new pipe from where it was connected to the plenum. This is the pressure feed. Now the stock line that goes to the solenoid has a direct connection to the wastegates (because you have blocked of the T into the plenum). This can be checked by putting some air down the line and hearing the wastegates open and close.

You block the feed to the intake pipe.

I think people need to get a engine up on a stand, follow all the pipes and make a drawing or something so they can understand how it's all linked.

i may be wrong but even i have disconnected it completely and run stock boost...

There is a T under the back of the plenum. It T's 1 to the wastegates, 1 to the solenoid. Now if the solenoid failed.. my guess would be it would stay closed which would give you stock boost.

okay, is there any one way valves? on it maybe? basically it cops a feed of vaccuum wether you have the solenoid on or not, maybe it is the restrictor in the line causing it enough restriction to only produce stock boost when the solenoid is disconencted?

Edited by oRiCLe

Hi, interesting post great information. I have a few questions I would like answers though.

My gtr had the restrictor olives removed before I purchased the car. I was given the two olives in a bag. I know one goes in the hose with the yellow stripe near the boost control solenoide, where does the other go?

Why have people said you can't fit the olives back in and to purchase another hose? I'm sure it will be tight but if you're careful and use say, a dril bit or something to make sure the hole in the olive is clear and does not go in sideways and block the pipe, should be ok. I haven't tried it yet, just a thought.

I'm thinking of reducing the boost as I noticed there was some boost creap on a recent dyno run. With the information I've read in these posts, I will be checking the condition of the wastegate actuator control lines for leaks etc. Maybe one of the actuators or wastegates is being restricted and therefore the turbos are making more boost than 1 bar. I'm running standard ceramic turbos!

Thanks guys

Hmm this is possible.. with the stock restrictor in there and the solenoid removed it may not bleed enough out to cause unlimited boost.. it would be more than just having a pure pressure feed though.

Thats a thought.

Anyone?

A garage in Melbourne told me you must fit both restrictors in to drop the boost. It's news to me, I thought there was only one olive. But I have two in the bag so it must go somewhere?

I wonder how may people have only removed / installed one?

I have refitted the restrictor before.. no problem. Not sure what they mean.

I don't know where the second one is fitted sorry.

no need to apologise for some of the smart ass comments i received guys...

I FORGIVE YOU!

Airchair experts, who havent actually done what they are claiming thats what it is :)

dont worry thats life :)

no need to apologise for some of the smart ass comments i received guys...

I FORGIVE YOU!

If you keep at it enough, you'll have the 'setbacks' etc, but eventually answers come..... :P

If you keep at it enough, you'll have the 'setbacks' etc, but eventually answers come..... :D

yeah, however next time im just not going to say anything and let em think what they want.. then everybody is happy :D

I can't admit to studying the stock solenoid system too much (it's one of the first things to get the bin :()

But I think that some people in this thread are mistaking the 3-port setup of most aftermarket EBCs and the 2-port setup of the stock solenoids :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...