Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just had my car on the dyno today, and was told it was hitting a boost cut at 12psi. I thought the cut would have been higher than that. Can anybody comfirm what the boost cut is so I can investigate further if it isn't.

I ended up getting 208 rwkw at 5615rpm on 10psi with a 2 3/4 cat back exhaust, k&N panel filter and a SAFC II, so I am happy, but 12psi would make me even happier

Cheers

Glenn

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88600-r34-gtt-boost-cut/
Share on other sites

tats a pretty nice figure with just exhaust, filter, safc and 10 psi

satanic on this forum had 194 or something with the same mods except he had FMIC and just a catback so i guess its pretty similar

i think some ppl experience boost cut at anything above 10 with the standard ecu

i thought the safc would remove the boost cut? hmm, i guess im wrong then

Sounds like a pretty happy dyno but just the same it sounds alright to me. Knowing what I know now (as opposed to before I went too far) I would sit back and accept that as pretty good and enjoy it.

Post your dyno sheet if you like and we can comment on that.

I mean Richen the fuel, retard the timing, recover.

repeat.

I didn't want you to think I thought you were a rich retard!!!

Rich/Retard is what happens when the stock computer sees higher than expected airflow/boost etc.

Hey guys what does the standard boost gauge go up to??

does +1 mean 14 or so psi??

is it fairly accurate?

mine goes up to about 2mm from the +1?

roughly how much would it boosting do you guys reckon??

my gtt when fully boosting sometimes pops a little at around 5krpm could this be the boost cut??

i really would like to try and find out what is causing this before i go and replace coils and get safc etc??

That's not boost/fuel cut. Boost fuel/cut will make the car jerk and will throw you a bit forward if you are accelerating hard enough when it does it.

Yes 1 on the stock boost gauge is approximately 14psi.

The popping is unburnt fuel in the exhaust and nothing to worry about.

Your graph looks very similar to mine when it was tuned poorly running 13-14 psi of boost. You may want to get that checked out.

Another R34GTT tune... 208rwkw is a very good number! I presume your car is a manual? This may explain the variance of 13-14kw between yours and mine since we have pretty much the same mods.

However, if you look at the graph in my blog, you'll notice that curve does not have any 'kinks' in it... maybe if you sort that out you'll be looking at 220rwkw which should be the correct difference between auto and manual.

Hey guys what does the standard boost gauge go up to??

does +1 mean 14 or so psi??

is it fairly accurate?

mine goes up to about 2mm from the +1?

roughly how much would it boosting do you guys reckon??

my gtt when fully boosting sometimes pops a little at around 5krpm could this be the boost cut??

i really would like to try and find out what is causing this before i go and replace coils and get safc etc??

Sorry to sort of diverge from the topic but is yours a series 2 R34 because of the R34 GTT's I've seen around here (QLD), the series 2 cars seem to boost close to the +1 but the series 1s go to about the 3/4 line (the mark before) and rarely over that.

Sorry to sort of diverge from the topic but is yours a series 2 R34 because of the R34 GTT's I've seen around here (QLD), the series 2 cars seem to boost close to the +1 but the series 1s go to about the 3/4 line (the mark before) and rarely over that.

mine is a series one

with exhaust fmic airfilter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Selling a genuine Nissan Skyline R33 Coupe 8-Pin Power Window Master Switch Part No. 25401-26U10 Price $300   IMPUL Gear Knob – Rare JDM Upgrade Upgrade your interior with this genuine IMPUL gear knob – a rare and stylish addition to any JDM build. Premium quality, perfect fit, and an authentic Japanese touch for your ride.  Price:$300 Nissan Skyline R33 (Series 2) Sedan Tail Lights Immaculate Condition OEM JDM S2 a pair of OEM Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state. Price:$900   Located in Melbourne (Western Suburbs) – Shipping available Australia wide at buyer’s expense. DM if you need anymore details.  
    • KYBs are typically twin tube, putting them in the lower tier of desireability. Do you just want to replace worn out ones for the lowest cost? I mean, you wouldn't just replace one end of a car, if the rears are a similar age to the fronts, then they are probably nowhere near what they should be, and likely won't be great against brand new fronts. So, to spend ~$800 on 2nd tier dampers, when you could get a decent set of MCA coilovers for <$4k.....? As to the strut tops. 1st up, the Sparesbox site specifically tells you that they are not correct for an R33. Beyond that, why do you think you need them?
    • That's not very Toyota of the Toyota!
    • Bringing an old thread back to life Looking to put some new front shocks in the r33Gtst and the KYB still look ok for a road car. Unless there are any other options aroind that price $200 a shock?  I’d like to replace the strut tops also, is this the correct KYB no. For the strut top, KSM7124?  https://www.sparesbox.com.au/products/kyb-strut-top-mount-ksm7124?srsltid=AfmBOoq-HDru8wSlLnQrhU9gCw_uYdKg8gUQzONY-EQOdnI5iXOWEUjY 341287 appears to be the front KYB shocks part no.  thanks all   
    • LandCruiser used to get a fluid flush every 12 to 18 months.   Only because it was about that often the electric motor on the master for brake assist kept dieing and needing to come off.
×
×
  • Create New...