Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

Ive got a R32 GTR. When i go above about 3000rpm the motor gives off a rattle and say i rev out 1st then hit 2nd the noise is there again. Sometimes you can hear it other times you cant. It sounds like its coming from inside the motor.

Would this be lifters maybe ? One day it was perfect the next the noise was there. Any ideas ? or most importantly how much to fix :D

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88633-rb26-rattle-noise/
Share on other sites

Its not a knock, its a rattle. Dont think its detonation we tested the fuel and they said the presure was perfect and the car is running rich. I did take it to a local mechanic and they said it was lifters and not to worry about it but they are not a RB26 expert so i wanna know exactly. Its only above about 3500rpm. Maybe wrong oil ?

my rattle from about 3000-upwards in every gear ended up as a spun bearing/gudgeon knock, not to say your necessarily is but symtoms sound the same, mine went from a rattle to what sounds like the piston rattling around at idle, so be careful! if u stick ur head under the bonnet you can sorta tell if it sounds like its at the top of the engine or at the bottom...

mine was due to the oil pump not working properly from sludgey oil when it was in japan, check it out but if its only doing it around those rpms then it may be similar and and may unfortunately = rebuild..

not trying to scare but a rattle at those rpms sounds similar so get it checked out ASAP!!!

Edited by oRiCLe

I just started it up in my garage. I reved it to about 6000rpm and there was no rattle noise in netural. Another thing is i can drive around the block and it not happen, it only happens past 3000rpm when the turbos arnt really boosting, so if i hold 2nd flat i dont hear it really, if i gradually bring the revs up while moving in 2nd then i can start to hear it (same with 1st gear etc..)

by 6000rpm it will be moving too fast to hear, if u rev it up slowly it gets to about 3000 and it will start to rattle, then as it gets faster it will dissapear as it gets too fast for it to make noise

does it do it if u accelerate up and sit on like 3000 rpm in 3rd gear just trailing throttle and then accellerate a bit??

what oil pressure do you get revving?

Edited by oRiCLe

Drop the oil and look for gold coloured metal. If that exists then it's a big end.

Sounds very much like it does in the very early stages of bearing failure/run with big end knocking on light load.

i think the main or end bearings just about to go on your car

My bet is on big ends , as geoff said the start so you can only hear it with no or very little load , when you gun it you cant hear it yet .

I think BAILED you will find that you cant hear it when the engine is cold .

I hope i'm wrong though .

Mine does the same thing, thinking its a gugdin pin...

When you say it didnt do it around the block.. is that when the oil is cold?

mine wont make the noise until the oil get to about 70 on the gauge and then it starts making that super happy fun rattle

wrxhoon - its only there when the engine has some load eg in netural its not there and also sometimes when i rev out 1st and change to second and bring the clutch out ready to hold 2nd it does it then goes away once i reved 2nd so more.

oRiCLe - pressure its usually on the 4 when i start it and drops between the 4 and the line under the 4. mainly sits between them.

CameronBNR32 - doesnt matter if the engine is hot or cold does it all the time

i took the car out for a drive tonight and dident really hear it the whole time, its only when for some reason i rev out the gear slowly with it not boosting much.

im getting the oil changed next week so a fully synthetic so i will see if that effects it at all.

thanks everyone for your input :P

Hey

what's sort of boost controller you got

I'm using the Apexi EBC - and it rattles (like a b%t&h) until you get to full boost (even when mounted on rubber). I think it the actual solenoid ?

I was worried too (knock !!) - until we figured out what it was :P

if it only happens when the engine is under load then it is not the lifters.

sorry dude but it sounds like you are about to spin a bearing. I hope it all works out for you. and i hope we are all wrong

oRiCLe - pressure its usually on the 4 when i start it and drops between the 4 and the line under the 4. mainly sits between them.

Thats a little low for a GTR, sure the sender could be dodgy. Hrmm

Those of you who have spun bearings prior, did you notice a drop in oil pressure?

Edited by Cubes

Wouldent be this would it ? my cars coming up to 95,000 today.

"I believe that this is your timing belt idler or tensioner pulley bearings starting to show their age. My car had this exact noise in the same rev range and when I replaced the timing belt and pulleys, the noise was gone. If your car is coming up to 100 000 km then I would get them replaced pronto. "

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...