Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HiCas is really pain in the ass

Does any one if there is any one know how to properly fix this HiCas system?

My problem is when the weather is really hot my HiCas light will be on and all the sudden I lost my power steering, therefore I had to turn off the car and let it cool for cuple hours then I get my power stearing back.

Dose any one know who can fix the problem? I have try two Nissan specialist but still fail.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8866-hicas-not-again/
Share on other sites

Check your fuses i dunno why the heat would effect it but when you pull your hicas fuse you lose power steering..

Here is a nice little trick;

In the boot there is a HICAS computer it hangs of the rear parcel shelf.

There are 2 sets of wires going into it one larger and one smaller.

Unplug the smaller set of wires leaving the larger set connected.

You have now disabled hicas..

I've had this done to my car for the last 30,000km and seen no side effects, i've even driven on the race track and its been fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8866-hicas-not-again/#findComment-131117
Share on other sites

i have two computers stacked on top of each other in my boot below the rear parcel tray...which is the hicas one? note i have an R33

they look like this (dodgy representation). is it the larger one on top or the smaller one below?

.______

|______|

..|____|

I think the smaller one is the HICAS computer from the info above, but then what is the larger one? main ecu?

thanks, this has been bugging me for a while :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8866-hicas-not-again/#findComment-131444
Share on other sites

dont just disable it because you cant fix it. Keep at it and you'll get it. run all the tests possible .. keep at it, the same thing happened to me a few months back and i kept at it and now MUHAHHAAH its 100% no specialist could fix it i found out the problem myself and then fixed it myself....and then i went down and stuck it up the arses of those "mechanics/specialists" who told me there was nothing wrong.!!!!! MUAHHAHAH

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8866-hicas-not-again/#findComment-131605
Share on other sites

In the R32, the HICAS is hydraulic, and uses the same fluid as the P/S. More often than not, the problem is a slight loss of P/S fluid. Which would explain the loss of P/S at the same time as you lose the HICAS.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8866-hicas-not-again/#findComment-132137
Share on other sites

I have check my power steering fluid level when the problem occured and it was full with no sign of leaking...

do you think may be it was the seal rubber was lose? I will check that next time when I visit another specialist. :D

I took my to Racing Project to check out but the specialist STILL can't find the problem was... does any one know a place to go for check? Doesn't any specialist have some sort of device that can plug into HiCas to determine what the problem was?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8866-hicas-not-again/#findComment-132620
Share on other sites

While on the Hicas issue:

After fitting an HKB boss kit (and Momo wheel) to my R32 GTR, the Hicas light comes on after driving for a while.

Searching previous posts had me take off the wheel and boss shroud to check that the Hicas sensor was clean. I found that the boss kit (part ON-110B) has two lugs that only move the Hicas sensor once you turn past about the 10 o'clock/2'o'clock position. The factory wheel, however, has a locating hole that moves the sensor with even the slightest turn.

The fact that the Hicas light only comes on when driving on the freeway suggests that the sensor doesn't move for a while and the Hicas computer probably registers that the car is moving but no input from steering sensor, therefore an error is returned.

Questions:

Have I got the right kit? (the Japlish seems to indicate that it is for R32 with Hicas).

Is there a special way to install this kit? (I can't see anywhere that the boss can positively lock onto the sensor sensor).

Appreciate anyone else's experience with this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8866-hicas-not-again/#findComment-133310
Share on other sites

Man... Skyline is a great car but why this HiCas system just pain in the ass. Without it car are hard to drive while stay with it car give you more trouble. GOD if you hear me please tell me what is going on with my HiCas, let me know if you found some thing... @_@

Hopeless guy ===> GT520

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8866-hicas-not-again/#findComment-133940
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Gotcha you summa bitch!

The HKB boss kit has a plastic ring that locks into the lug on the HICAS steering wheel poistioning sensor. Problem is that this ring is only glued onto the alloy boss!

This glue failed and the plastic ring spins on the boss rather than moving the lug. This is fairly hard to diagnose and requires removing the boss and seeing if the ring can spin.

Not what you would expect for an fairly expensive boss kit!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8866-hicas-not-again/#findComment-144373
Share on other sites

Bloody hicas.. I get the light on too.. R33 purely stock. It seems to come on after about 15 - 20 minutes of freeway / country town driving (i.e. straight and fast). It doesn't go away until I turn off the car and restart it. There seems to be no degraded performance at all, and my power steering is nice and full.

Anyway, next time the light comes on, I'll pull over and see if the rear wheels steer at all. If they do, I imagine it's just the sensor...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8866-hicas-not-again/#findComment-144972
Share on other sites

Hey Gav and Bleach....

Is the Mine's computer in your skyline's a major benefit to the overall performance...

All i read and see is people with the Power Fc so I'm keen to know.,...

You seem to hate the HICAS system, i find no problem and find it a huge benefit to the vehicle.....

Cheers

Loz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8866-hicas-not-again/#findComment-145937
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have found the problem. The wire from the switch to the HB is shorted to earth. Now you have to physically find it and replace it. It won't be the switch, although following the steps above (and yes, where you ask, that is the light switch on the RHS of the binnacle) will rule it out for sure. Or not, if perhaps the switch has melted. But there's no route to earth inside the switch, so I can't see how it would.
    • I did read your post, a few times actually.    Done. Followed this step. [Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.]   Did this partially.. now that im reading this over, i only unplugged the LED lights. [Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches.] When you are talking about the switch, you're talking about the knob thing on the right side in the drivers seat right? If so, i need to take that apart?  [Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch.] At this point are you referring to the connector by the headlights?  [If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.] Did this. I can confirm that the LED lights aren't the issue [Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.]
    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
×
×
  • Create New...