Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Noise On R33

baron25

By baron25,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

baron25 Proficient

baron25

Posted
Posted

Recently my engine developed this annoying rattle at 1500rpm or so. It seems to disappear once the revs climb, and it doesn't do it at idle, only in the 1500-2000 rev range. Any idea what this could be? It sounds like it's coming from the front of the motor, but i'm not sure if it's from the top or from the pulleys and belts at the base.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88719-engine-noise-on-r33/
Share on other sites
ien Newbie

ien

Posted
Posted
Recently my engine developed this annoying rattle at 1500rpm or so. It seems to disappear once the revs climb, and it doesn't do it at idle, only in the 1500-2000 rev range. Any idea what this could be? It sounds like it's coming from the front of the motor, but i'm not sure if it's from the top or from the pulleys and belts at the base.

I believe that this is your timing belt idler or tensioner pulley bearings starting to show their age. My car had this exact noise in the same rev range and when I replaced the timing belt and pulleys, the noise was gone. If your car is coming up to 100 000 km then I would get them replaced pronto.

baron25 Proficient

baron25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I believe that this is your timing belt idler or tensioner pulley bearings starting to show their age.  My car had this exact noise in the same rev range and when I replaced the timing belt and pulleys, the noise was gone.  If your car is coming up to 100 000 km then I would get them replaced pronto.

Mine's only supposedly done 56,000km but. How would i check if it is the timing belt?

ien Newbie

ien

Posted
Posted
Mine's only supposedly done 56,000km but. How would i check if it is the timing belt?

I got my mechanic friend to do the replacement for me, but I think the best way to check the belt is to get a mechanic to take off the cam gear cover and crank angle sensor unit to inspect the belt condition. I think in my case it was more to do with the bearings in the 2 pulleys as they sounded like a cement mixer when you spun them.

It isn't a cheap exercise to replace all these components, especially when you have labour costs to consider, so I would probably get a mechanic to check it for you to be honest. This way you won't end up replacing something that might not be broken.

I think the parts cost me about $500 and there will be a few hours labour involved. My car had come up to 100000km when I bought it so I had already factored this into the equation. My car is a 95 r33 so I think it's around the same age as yours, going from your sig.

cme33 Apprentice

cme33

Posted
Posted

If you can get your hands on a stetescope. (kinda what docs use to listen) you'll be able to pin point the noise. Approx $15 from Autobarn... supercheap... repco ect. I've got a similar noise to what your saying and i found it's my A/C compressor bearing. It only does it between 1,500 and 2,000 RPM. It's annoying but i'd rather wait till it gets worse and buy a new one, my A/C still works fine!

Or another poss. maybe check the tension on all your belts and timing belt.

Angry Fist Enthusiast

Angry Fist

Posted
Posted

Hi I bought my skyline about 2 weeks ago and I'm still getting used to it but I've noticed sometimes when I'm shifting up from 2nd to 3rd that theres a coarse gravely noise until i get to around about 40km/h and then things start smoothing out. I haven't noticed what rev range it occurs in. Is this normal?? or I am shifting up to early (I think it should be)?? My last car was an auto and I haven't driven manual in about 2 years?

Cheers,

AF

Zahos Mentor

Zahos

Posted
Posted

Could be the springs on your spung centre clutch are loose...

Mine made a grinding noise b/c of a faulty clutch plate where the springs were loose. It always did it at lower revs, and most audiable in 3rd and 2nd gears.

If I changed gears to early and load it up at 1,500 rpm in 2nd or 3rd, it was very noticable...

Angry Fist Enthusiast

Angry Fist

Posted
Posted

Damn I think you hit that right on the bulls eye...I'm guessing thats going to be a fair bill to fix.

Could be the springs on your spung centre clutch are loose...

Mine made a grinding noise b/c of a faulty clutch plate where the springs were loose. It always did it at lower revs, and most audiable in 3rd and 2nd gears.

If I changed gears to early and load it up at 1,500 rpm in 2nd or 3rd, it was very noticable...

Zahos Mentor

Zahos

Posted
Posted

that means the clutch plate is faulty (sort of).

From what I understand, if it IS that, then it won't cause any damage, it is just an annoyance.

Cost to fix is basically replace clutch plate...

What clutch do you have?

I have a daiken exceedy organic sports clutch.

Angry Fist Enthusiast

Angry Fist

Posted
Posted
that means the clutch plate is faulty (sort of).

From what I understand, if it IS that, then it won't cause any damage, it is just an annoyance.

Cost to fix is basically replace clutch plate...

What clutch do you have?

I have a daiken exceedy organic sports clutch.

I'm not too sure, hey? I just bought it probably just on two weeks ago now but there was no paperwork (manuals, instructions or compliance or whatever else)with it, even though I bought it at a dealer...come to think of it, I think the bastard's ripped me off since now the front right small headlight thing (the corner one, the faint ones?!) doesn't work anymore..

do you by any chance happen to know where a good reliable skyline service centre is in Syndey or where I can get keys, manuals and stuff from?

Cheers

AF

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • MBS206
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
    • GTSBoy
      SR20 to cefiro

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).
×
×
  • Create New...