Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In your first post you said "suspect there is a major airflow restriction"

Have you considered the size of the air filter being a restriction at high rpm?

Have you tried taking off the air filter and seeing if this helps?

Saying this b/c a friend of mine in his rb30det changed to a newer (smaller) air filter compared to the original one he had on and with only this change lost approx 35rwkw.

Yeah, tried removing the airfilter, gained only 3rwkw.

Archie- How much power is your mates RB30det making, and what size differences were there between the 2 air filters he tried?

Edited by sky30

valve float is a possibility too, didn't think of that. the exhaust manifold is reaching its limits pretty hard up around those sorts of airflows though, it seems to be the likely culprit if you've tried adjusting the cam timing with no significant effect.

Upgrading valve springs alone will not resolve valve float if there isn't enough seat pressure to begin with. It will only resolve the issue if the valve springs are too soft to handle the inlet and exhaust pressures when making some decent power.

I.e comparing my head to Bl4ck32's. Mine was nice and tight, bl4ck32's was loose and required shimming, upgrading springs in bl4ck32's head would have made a small difference but not completely resolved the float he would have experienced.

Yours may be fine, but it is something to look in to. Much cheaper than replacing the exhaust manifold.

Bl4ck32 is currently running 16psi on stock n/a springs with zero signs of valve float.

Its something you can do yourself.

Edited by Cubes

G'day Sky - I'm the guy who changed pod filters and saw the power drop...

I went from 350ish rwkw to 312 (or there abouts)....

My skyline made good power from about 3500rpm right through till about 7000rpm, and power dropped off gradually after that (7500rpm limit).

I went from the old style apexi pod filter (the round/cylindrical model) to the current cone-style model - and saw this power restriction.

To be honest, if you've already checked that, I'd (As previously mentioned) get a couple of gauges and measure the pressure drop through the intercooler... My car had a 4" IC core, so it's very possible that your I/C is your restriction...

Your intake plenum is fine - I retained the factory plenum and never had any real flow restrictions.

Cheers,

matt

Yeah, tried removing the airfilter, gained only 3rwkw.

Archie- How much power is your mates RB30det making, and what size differences were there between the 2 air filters he tried?

Joel-

Upgrading the valvesprings does give more seat pressure, it totally fixed my valve float problems. If Darren is only running 16psi, it may not be enough pressure to cause float, mine only occured when running over 18-19psi.

Sky30, I think you don't understand what I mean.

If your valve seats are pulled up in the head the stiffer valve springs will make some difference but not completely resolve it.

Lifter jacking to the point where it causes the car to miss is the extreme end of valve float, that is being extremely close to smashing valves on the pistons.

It may not be the case but its something I would look in to especially after bl4ck32s head being so loose from factory. Its easy to check. :O

I still think its the stock exh. manifold and nothing to do with the above, but its worth a shot. :P

Here's a little tech write up on seat pressure.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=5

Edited by Cubes
Joel- I understand you mean some heads have their valve seats recessed further into the head, But by using a longer spring it will do the same job( if not better) than using shims under the stock springs.

Its only a suggestion, if you are 100% confident the valve springs have good seat pressure and are not floating under high back pressures then I wouldn't worry about it. :O

The inlet mani is fine, the exhaust is fine and the valve springs are fine.

That leaves the fmic and exhaust manifold.

I would probably look at trouble shooting in the following order

Drill/tap pressure guage in to exh mani or turbo housing.

Then consider if the exh. manifold needs replacing if there are extreme back pressures that may also be causeing a little float and reversion.

Replace FMIC

As I said quite some time ago.

The bloke I bought that machined GT35R turbine housing off had it on his stock exh. manifold, he was running 18-19psi with 256duration cams and made 306rwkw. That was the limit.

He changed exh. manifolds to a ext. gate setup and on the same boost picked up 20rwkw.

How much of the 20rwkw was due to the exhaust manifold is to be debated. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
    • Yeah, well I was probably way underguessing the $300 figure anyway. Just multiplied a "normal" by 4 for the purposes of pointing out it's not cheap, particularly if it has to be repeated.
    • We have an alignment shop out here that does what you're talking about but he wants like 800 AUD a pop. DIY is "cheaper" but once you start accounting for the value of your time I'm not sure it's worth it.
    • The main catch phrase for any car is "the eye of the beholder", and "personal tastes and preferences" And as for the plastic "flares", I honestly think they look cheap and tacky, and I cannot see them aging well, maybe if they were body colour they might look better to my eyes, but, I would still prefer it the were more like the older WRX STI models that had the wider body metal panels In saying all this 5hit, I wouldn't buy a new WRX again, even if it had the wide body metal panels    
×
×
  • Create New...