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So to the wiring for the LEDs, this should suit pretty much any modern car too. I did some precision hacking of the dash in a flat area with space behind (and left a nice scratch too) There I mounted a Narva 63169 On/Off/On switch with the following pinout I wired 2 and 6 to ACC power that I tapped into near the fuse box, 7 to earth, 4 comes from the Hi beam power in the IPDM via the firewall and 5 returns through the firewall to a relay I mounted near the battery. This means with the switch up the LEDs come on (as long as ACC is on), with it down they come on with high beams, and there is an off setting in the middle. The larger light on the switch comes on with it up, and the smaller light when they are set to come on with high beams (usual setting). Getting through the firewall was a bit of a mission. I mentioned earlier that most of the wiring sits in a compartment behind the engine and outside the firewall. The main loom runs through there and into the cabin through a big grommet conveniently (not) located under the ABS module and master cylinder. Thankfully there was also a small blanking plug there that I could just get to just above the main grommet but still very tricky, so I stuck a pick through to identify where it came out inside Inside, it came through just above the throttle mounting (you can kind of see the shadow where it came through). There is space there for a couple more wires in future but not many. Then, with the magic of straightened coathanger I ran twin core wire through. From there one wire was connected to the IPDM High beam wire and the other is the + trigger for the relay. I used a 40a 5 pin normally open relay Narva 68032 (the LEDs are rated 30A) wired as follows: 85 (earth trigger) - to earth 86 (pos trigger) - to pin 5 of the switch 30 power in - to the battery + via a 40a maxi fuse 87 / 87 - one wire to each of the LED + LED - is just earthed at the front reo Took a lot of stuffing around trying to see how to work with a new car, but it ended up OK. Lights in place Lights on -
Yeah 3.0 twin turbo direct injected - VR30DDTT. Makes 298kw factory (or 400hp if you prefer). Compared to the 32 GTR which makes 250kw at the wheels in production car trim it should be in mid pack somewhere despite weighing 1700kg.
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By IXMandalorianXI · Posted
Thank you for the heads up! Will definitely take a look! -
Hi all, My 1990 R32 GT-R has developed a bad knocking sound coming from the what I assume is the front differential (the reason why I assume this is when I pull the fuse for the asetta the knock disappears put it back in and it comes back and yes the transfer case and gearbox has fresh oil in it), the uni joint on the front differential side was broken bad it would have been causing massive vibrations into the pinion gear, has anyone experienced this before? And is anyone selling a front differential Center complete with pinion and crown gear ? For the drive shaft I can’t find any driveline workshops in SE QLD that will put a new uni joint on the front prop shaft as they are a staked uni joint no one wants to touch it 😭 does anyone have any recommendations on any workshops that can replace the uni joint ? sorry if this has been posted before I couldn’t find anything using the search function for this exact issue thank you NSM32 sorry for the bad photo, yes it’s missing a bolt I took the photo while removing the shaft to take to a workshop to try and get it repaired -
By hardsteppa · Posted
The offset of the wheel is usually stamped on the inside of the rim. So just pull the wheel off and see if it's marked as such.
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