Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Dont think it shits itself i ran it to 14psi and held

have u noticed your probably not making any more power than running 11psi ..

hahahahahahahah there's a difference between u think and u know!

keep thinking and keep running it at 14psi and see what happens...lol :lol: :lol:

have u noticed your probably not making any more power than running 11psi ..

hahahahahahahah  there's a difference between u think and u know!

keep thinking and keep running it at 14psi and see what happens...lol :lol:  :lol:

I dont always run it at 14 if thats what you think during the day i run it at .360 and night at .600. i got told the limit is 14psi

I dont always run it at 14 if thats what you think during the day i run it at .360 and night at .600. i got told the limit is 14psi

11psi is the limit for the stock turbo anything higher than this and u will see a exhaust wheel out the backend...also there is not much to be had above 11psi ...u might as well use it for a hairdryer.

:P:P:D

everyone has a different figure in mind.

I had one running at 12psi let go after a few weeks

I had another i was running at 16psi for almost a year in my car even drifted it like that and it never broke

Now I wouldnt push it past 13psi. after that it is just pushing hot air anyway.

infected flow

My brother was running up to 16 psi sometimes with his r33gtst which had an r34 turbo put on it. he gave it heaps on full boost and it held together. What are you basing this this 11psi figure on???

hahaha and i bet it did nothing at 16psi !

and through r & d !

hmmmmmmm since im sick of explaining do a search !

and geezzzz maybe because there's 4 people i know that have blown them running 12psi exhaust wheel out the exhaust (and yet i told them its only good for 11psi )

and how long did it hold together....?

and yes the r34gtt turbo is only good for 11psi thats its limit ...

infected

yeah well i also have an r34gtt and its boosting slightly below the +1 on the standard boost gauge, which would mean it is boosting at roughly 12-13 psi?? and the turbo hasn't let go yet.

i suggest you do some more r & d before you pretend like you are an expert

Heat and torque loading kills the ceramic turbine, not boost on its own. I have seen 6 Skylines with ceramic in the cat disease at 12 psi or more. But the people that own these 6 Skylines actually USED the 12 psi for more than 5 minutes continuously at higher than 5,000 rpm. Not 12 psi/>5,000 rpm for a few seconds, then doddle around for a month or so.

So you can run 50 psi if you like, just don't do it for very long, not long enough for the heat to build up. That's why some people have problems at 12 psi and some people don't. The people that have problems are actually using the power that the 12 psi facilitates. The people that don't have problems at 12 psi doddle around most of the time and get no benefit from the 12 psi. So they might as well not bother.

it wont let go at 12

I will be in Adelaide next month, I will bet you that at >12 psi I can kill your ceramic turbine in less than 10 minutes. Wanna test it?

:O cheers :)

hahahahahaha

yeah sure why not sydneykid then when you have finished blowing my turbo for me you can come back to my house and f**k my sister.

hahahahahaha

funny guy, but well put i must say. hahahahha

maybe thats why the turbo hasn't blown yet because i dont hold it at 12 or 16 psi for 5 mins straight. Realisticly when are you going to hold it on boost for that long with normal driving?? unless you are on a dyno or on an autobahn its not going to happen.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • People think it's a waste of space, ugly, etc, generally associate "emissions control equipment" with "bad". These OBD1 vacuum-only systems I'm not a huge fan because I think they don't go far enough. They're wasting some of the fuel captured because they start purging as soon as the engine pulls vacuum. Later OBD1/OBD2 they put an electric purge valve on them to vent only when closed loop is active so the ECU will trim some fuel out. Even later OBD2 with zero evaporative loss the tank is 100% sealed from atmosphere until you run the engine or press the refuel door release. The tank has to take much higher vacuum/pressure spec but you never deal with saturating the charcoal canister and losing some fuel that way. The fuel also lasts as long as it would in a 100% airtight container which is nice when you're dealing with modern E10 pump gas.
    • If your luck is anything like mine, what happens is in the process of pulling hoses to get access to the one leak you create many more leaks because every o-ring was on the verge of failing and the strain of pulling it apart caused it to fail. Sometimes life is simple, sometimes you pay twice trying to save once. For the R33 you can still get most AC components from Nissan, I use nissan epc data or amayama to look up the part numbers and then search for the cheapest/most practical way of sourcing from there.
    • The dirty secret is there is nothing recyclable about the plastic bag or old plastic bottles either. Our local trash collection explicitly calls it out as hazmat in both cases. Oil-soaked rags + paper towels too. Oil-soaked cardboard is also not recyclable. The most common case of oil-soaked paper like that is pizza boxes, which are explicitly compost-only from the oil. To my knowledge hazmat oil contaminated plastic the only solution is either landfill or "thermal recycling". Most plastics in my experience there is slow permeation of the oil it's holding into the container so it's very challenging to get it 100% clean.
    • Yes, and since RAA insurance essentially being swallowed up by the same monster that is NRMA insurance and all those other clowns, they are no bloody good now either. We dropped RAA insurance for the house a little while back because they lost the plot.
    • I can tell you now, good luck if you're with NRMA (NSW equiv of vis RACV and QLD RACQ). Because NRMA are freaking horrendous to deal with for claims, even with a normal road car. Not to mention even more BS when they're in the wrong and didn't cancel a policy etc when they were meant to and make you jump through hoops for things.
×
×
  • Create New...