Jump to content
SAU Community

Short shifters

JH32

By JH32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ozzy Enthusiast

Ozzy

Posted
Posted

I read an article recently about a particular shift kit that you just have to ram it forward and back...somewhat like motorbike gears....the concensus in that particular article was that it wasn't really a good idea, or worthwhile with a standard synchro box, but rather for use with a dog box, that way u would not need to clutch...just ram it in gear.

I'll see if I can find the article and report back the source.

Merli Grand Master

Merli

Posted
Posted

Hmmm.... Lots of comments from people who haven't experienced a good quality short shifter in here I think...

Lets just say that once you've driven around with a good quality short shifter (C's, Mines, NISMO), you will *NEVER* want to drive a car with a standard throw again. It feels sloppy, inaccurate and slow as hell.

Yes, if you rip gears from one to the next as fast as possible all the time and generally give your gearbox a hard time, a short shifter will increase wear on your synchros. Of course it will, your throw is a LOT shorter, and you can crunch the gears if you rip the gearstick with all your strength...

If you drive around like that all the time, you probably deserve to be faced with a gearbox rebuild anyway :D... But you can learn to shift as fast as possible without beating the synchros. You will learn how fast you can shift that is optimum for your gearbox, so you don't crunch your gears, and you will then be extracting the very best your gearbox can give you on those 1/4 mile passes...

That's not the best thing about short shift kits anyway. It's for the 95% of the time you're driving on the road and shifting leisurely... It feels so much tighter and direct, it makes the car a pleasure to drive and shifting much nicer...

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

a short shifter is indeed nice whether it wears more or not - my r33 is the nicest manual i've driven. The short shifter makes it feel much less like a manual and changing gears is no longer such a chore in daily stop/start driving.

Its worth it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...