Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

140rwkw is normal for those mods. Some cases have seen 155 with aftermarket pump and reg and boost at 11 so I would not be concerned.

I noticed someone mentioned tyres slipping on dyno rollers.....bwahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I just put my car on the dyno, running stock exhaust, AM pod filter and 10PSI, with faulty coils and pulled out 150rwkw  <_<

Okay so dynos arent the same, cos i made that figure (or at least a bees dick away from it) with only 7psi.

i drive an r33 gtst, i've got a 3" turbo back (1 piece dump and front pipie), fmic, pod running 10psi.

im not sure what to expect.. maybe around 150rwkw... is that realistic?

would a dump pipe with the exhaust and wastegate seperated give me better power?

ive heard about 3.5inch cats with 3" reducers.. would this also give me more power?

im thinking of getting a t3/4.. would i need bigger injectors and aftermarket ecu or could i just use an safc2?

sorry about the hijack. its all relevant! :D

From every source I know, 30% loss through the drivetrain is commonly accepted.. so 200atfw = 132rwkw! Of course, the 33% may be more acceptable in typical passenger cars, not sure about Skylines and such that are more likely to have lower weight drivetrain etc in stock form

I wouldn't worry so much about the figure, dyno's are only a tool for tuning. If it's tuned properly a car will still run the same time where it counts, on the big black strip! Regardless of hp readings.

That said, every dyno is different. I know of a S/C BMW that pulled higher readouts before and after on the owner's "dyno" that he used than it did on the workshops.

Before it was 10kw higher at the wheels.

After it was 40kw higher. I've seen both the dyno sheets. Same car no other modifications. You can bet which one the owner always claims it makes.

That said, your runs are in 3rd gear. It'd be interesting to see what power differences people are getting with 4th gear runs or their 1:1 gear.

Edited by 1q2w3e4r

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AFM looks to be a z32 The injectors maybe old Nismo 555cc The turbo tag when looked up seems to be a gt2871 , imagine it would have the bigger rear housing .82 all look like the mid 00's mods when he started building it up. Vac hose seems right but would need to see a diagram. Great work going up there and sorting it out, be a good club car for someone wanting a good reliable rig.  I know I would like to have it but no space and too many other race cars at the moment.
    • Heys guys I got a r32 gtst speedo is out by 10kph seems the faster I go the more it be out  just seeing if anyone else had to problem and knows how to fix it 
    • I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
×
×
  • Create New...