Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

we found out why my rb26 died, it wasnt from too much boost like we first thought.

this is the side of one of the pistons:

post-1-1127821546.jpg

scratched up pretty bad

and we think this was the problem:

post-1-1127822028.jpg

perhaps in japan they upgraded the pump but used the standard crank.

so for the other guys building there rb26's, if your going to upgrade to an N1 oil pump, you might want to get a 33gtr crank, or atleast get the standard one built up so the driver is longer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89477-the-oil-pump-stuffed-it/
Share on other sites

Thats not the problem.

The problem occurs when they actually crack.

Open up the oil pump and inspect the internal gear.

I've seen a few pumps that are fine but have a little wear on the drive gear. Unless the wear is so extreme the crank drive spins without touching the oil pump drive, in your case this is not the case. :)

so thats normal for an R32?

why is the side of the piston all scratched up?

there are big scratches like this on 2 pistons, and all the other ones have similar marks but not as bad. or is normal to have scratches like that?

At a guess the pistons from 5 & 6 have the most scuffing? It's normal to get a bit of wear on the skirts, but in severe cases where the pistons have gotten too hot (common in a detonation senario) then they are going to expand a bit more/ scuff & scrape a bit more.

If the motor has been run pretty hot that could lead to overheating, then your pistons would look like that pic i.e. detonation and scuffed hard.

so thats normal for an R32?

why is the side of the piston all scratched up?

there are big scratches like this on 2 pistons, and all the other ones have similar marks but not as bad. or is normal to have scratches like that?

All the deep pitting around the top is indicative of detonation, which then starts the scoring. Then oil comes past burning in the combustion chamber causing more detonation and compression is gradually lost.

Doughboy: its from pistons 4 and 5. sorry i dont have pics of bearings and crank. but the crank was fine. i never heard and detonation or anything

geoff: thanks, i guess something like that must have happened..

i just thought it was weird how the driver didnt go all the way in and thought it may have been changed..

thanks for the info

Let me guess...your turbos blew as well??

That looks to me like it's had ceramic dust go through it.

it looks like something like that hey, but the turbos are fine.

maby some prick took off the head and droped some rocks in there while i wasnt looking <_< <_<

maby some prick took off the head and droped some rocks in there while i wasnt looking <_<  <_<

No not rocks, Geoff is spot on, some detonation, pieces of molten piston, poor oil control, more detonation, loss of ring seal, more oil, more detonation............etc. Not the oil pump's fault, you either have a tuning problem (most likely) or an injector/fuel supply problem (worth checking).

:P cheers :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...