Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just bought an r32 gts-4 and I had no dramas when I picked it up but Ive noticed a few problems start up.

On start up it runs very ruff and sometimes stalls, if I give a bit of juice after a second or two it seems to sort it self out.

Also after ive given it a bit while driving it back fires when you back off and the next few times you touch the pedal it also back fires.

The car only has a filter and 3in cat back exhast!

So far ive done the plugs, fuel filter, reset ecu, cleaned air flow meter and tryed injector cleaner. It runs smoother but still plays up. Im going to try insulating the coils to see if it makes any difference.

I did notice there is some damage to the centre muffler so that maybe causing the back firing.

GTS-4some, First up, I would pull apart the IAC valve located near the throttle body and give it a clean. This controls your idle speed. If the IAC valve is fine I would then go onto the sensor that controls this. Not directly but the ECU input would be the 2 pinned coolant temperature sensor. Located in the water jacket normally 9 times out of 10 up the front of the engine.

As for Tommo's problem, I would say that if the coolant temp sensor is not telling the computer that the car is now hot, you will still have rich mixtures and this will kill an exhaust in no time. You will find that you will get poor fuel consumption and be down on power.

Cheers

Sumo

P.S. Im telling you what I know in my universal applications of how cars work, I have had bugger all expirience with skylines in particular, but once you get your foundations straight you can normall apply this to most cars.

How damaged is your exhaust ? A badly damaged exhaust will cause all sorts of problems.

I would also suggest checking the ignition timing and possibly the crank angle sensor since RB20's sometimes get problems in that area.

On start up it runs very ruff and sometimes stalls, if I give a bit of juice after a second or two it seems to sort it self out.

I had this problem.

Injectors are clagged.

You will also find if you try and give it a quick stab of the throttle it will stumble and not rev up as it should.

If you drive it immediately after you start it you will feel a nasty flat spot on the accelerator.

Once the injectors and fuel warm a little the fuel atomizes better, which is why once its warm it feels ok.

I still found mine had a real slight flat spot on the tip of the accelerator, i.e limping around a car park with really really light throttle it could be felt.

Edited by Cubes

Throttle body and valve were clogged up so I cleaned them out but was still having problems.

I got a mate at nissan to put it on a diaignostic computer everything showed up fine, air fuel and everything, and no error codes but didnt feel right!! There is no exhast leaks, I checked it, so the damage cant be to bad!

I got it dynoed and it only dynoed at 108kw at all four and was running lean!!

I got the fuel pump flow tested and its screwed so im replacing it tomorrow with a walbro then getting another run done.

The pump was only running around 1.0 to 1.5 litres per min.

I will post after the pumps in, thats the major problem, but the injeactors i think will need a cleaning too!!

Thanks for the input everyone!!!!

I now have a couple of other things to check out if im still having problems tomorrow!!

While its there give it a carbon clean.

I think thats what its called.

A mate of mine during school was a mechanic, I often saw him attaching a can of something via a hose in front of the t/b, while the motor was running he would squirt the can, the car would run like crap but it apparently removed all the sludge and junk in the plenum/tb/valves.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don’t really have any ideas how to set the timing on the CAS 😂, sounds like the top, sounds like it maybe misfiring as well as ticking,  got the box sorted 😌, must of been a air bubble on the clutch side
    • Use a 2' length of hose (that's 2 foot, not 2 inches) as a stethoscope to localise the source of the ticking. From cam covers? From exhaust or turbo manifold gasket? From injectors? From lower down in the engine? Etc. Use a timing light to set the timing. Put Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the box. It's not the very best thing for the box, but it will take a box that refuses to engage a gear with other oil, and make it engage a gear. I had to put it in when I installed the R33 box I have in my car. It would not select ANY gear when running. Smurf jizz made it work. That was >10 years ago and I still use it. I'm stuck with it now. Failing that - rebuild the box.
    • Well done Duncan. The fuel tank bulkhead lid is also in great condition (some of mine were stuffed). These are now out of production and good ones like that are becoming hard to come by.
    • Wow that's a steal, you've done well there. 
    • Exterior LEDs R34 2Dr R34 4Dr Position Lamp T10 T10 Winker front T20S T20S side T10 T10 rear T20S S25S150 Anti-hyfla relay TYPE3 TYPE3 tail T10 T20W Stop Lamps T20W T20W High Mount T16 T16 back T16 T20S number T10 T10 trunk T10 T10 Interior LED Item No.     Map Lamp BA9S single-sided     Room Lamps T10×31     Trunk Lamp T10     meter Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     Liquid crystal section T6.5 pedestal     Winker T6.5 pedestal     High Beam T6.5 pedestal     3 SERIES METER Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     air conditioner Early Liquid Crystal T3     Late LCD T4.2 Short     button T4.2 Middle     Hazard SW T3 Pedestal Short     Keyring T5     Cigar Socket T5
×
×
  • Create New...