Powerfc Tuning

[justin911]

hey peoples

this is a realy stupid question.. but say you where quickly tuning ya pfc for a r33 which are the actual 'settings' in the pfc's menu which would get changed ?

Im just trying to write down my settings incase it ever looses them or something stupid like that.. all the fuel/ign maps look to be exactly the same as the base ones ?? so i dont wana spend 6 hours writing them down as well if theres no point ?

thank u

[Risking]

The main settings are your maps. The MAF changes etc are very simple. if you have a Z32 then you will need to select Z32.

The maps are where it gets annoying. If the ECM was tuned with datalogit the tunner may have the file saved and be able to put it onto disc for you.

I know I always have my tunning saved to disc

[justin911]

the maps being for the ign and fuel ? the 20x20 maps ?

see thats the thing i checked them and there the exact same as the base/stock maps..

The pfc is definetly tuned cause it goes realy well, U just cant seem to find the menu which has settings which are differant to the stock ones ?? ( i wrote down all the stock ones)

I know the 'ign/fuel' setting lets you temporarily change stuff, so its not that one either.

It also definetly wasnt done with any software. What else besides those maps would you quickly 'tune' to get it going nicely ??

The main settings are your maps. The MAF changes etc are very simple. if you have a Z32 then you will need to select Z32.

The maps are where it gets annoying. If the ECM was tuned with datalogit the tunner may have the file saved and be able to put it onto disc for you.

I know I always have my tunning saved to disc

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[paulr33]

airflow voltage, check it under etc, airflow and compare to stock settings

[justin911]

theres airflow warning in 'etc' ?? thats disabled.

theres also the airflow sensor check ??

where am i looking again ??

[paulr33]

doh sorry in setting i meant

are u coming tomorrow, if so you can check it against mine

[justin911]

ooooh cool i c it now thanks. Yeah its got differant values in it now.

That setting functions kinda like a safc2 if im understanding it correctly ?

is there anything else thats likely to get changed besides the maps and that ?

ya i'll c u all 2morow

thanks again

doh sorry in setting i meant

are u coming tomorrow, if so you can check it against mine

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[paulr33]

hmm not sure really, my tuner adjusted the airflow table not sure what else. i adjusteed my ign table myself, havent had a need to adjust the inj table.

[justin911]

So all the places that charge 3-4 hours for a tune are basicaly just scamming ppl ?

hmm not sure really, my tuner adjusted the airflow table not sure what else. i adjusteed my ign table myself, havent had a need to adjust the inj table.

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[The Mafia]

not quite, but tuners like to over exagerate.They just did a "full throttle" tune on mine, and I am pissedabout it cause I've been getting 250kms out of a tank.

If you read paulr33's thread, you'll get some great information that you will like a lot. I will be taking a lot of his tuning tips

[paulr33]

i think thats the norm among performance shops when you ask for a tune, they do a full throttle tune on the dyno at max power, make sure it doesnt knock and is safe and check some of the load maps to make sure its all ok. it does take time, and thats what you are paying for. dyno time and testing/checking could take 1.5 hours or so so $250 could be reasonable, depending on workshop.

i got the same as "the mafia" and my car went to 3 workshops, not one of them did a fuel economy check/tune nor did they ask me either. i kinda assumed a tune was "max power + fuel economy" but its really only max power. im sure if you asked for it, they would be happy to do it its just not on the priority list and the default maps are conservative and run a little rich to keep it safe, fuel economy wasn't one of the default map priorities i dont believe

[paulr33]

ive moved my light load maps (the first 10x10 cells on ign map) or thereabouts, maybe 10 load is too much should be around 6 so perhaps

10 across and 6 down area is light load / cruise area

i moved each ignition cell up 4 degress. this made the car drive really smoothly and sharp on light cruise and also got me some kick ass economy. i should be easily getting over 400 for this tank, max i could previously was 320k's. more timing will give you better economy and a much nicer drive

[justin911]

yeah i rekon mine is on the 300ish km mark..

So without going to much into it, when u changed those cells +4 did you need to change the fuel levels etc ?

I was checking my old safc2 settings against the pfcs airflow section, its quite amazing all the values are basicaly the same (off by like maybe 1 or 2%)

ive moved my light load maps (the first 10x10 cells on ign map) or thereabouts, maybe 10 load is too much should be around 6 so perhaps

10 across and 6 down area is light load / cruise area

i moved each ignition cell up 4 degress. this made the car drive really smoothly and sharp on light cruise and also got me some kick ass economy. i should be easily getting over 400 for this tank, max i could previously was 320k's. more timing will give you better economy and a much nicer drive

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[Guilt-Toy]

The Fuel map is at - Settings - INJ MAP

You go in here and crooze should be 10x10 anymore then that and you should be into boost.

A good way to get better economy from your car is to tune the sucker yourself - it does not really matter how lean or how advnced the timing is under vacume so this is what I did to get good economy.

My mate has a Autronic meter and a dyno and i have had time on the dyno and the autronic meter when I need it.... This is what I did.

I got my laptop and sat the car in the garage and went into th INJ map and the ING maps and typed EVERY setting into Microsoft excel. Once i have done this i would create a graph and look at the map - (pretty funky stuff)

Anyway once you have all the sttings in (its best to actually go into every load point and put the number down as well as the . value as on crooze you will find lots of load points with the same number but they will have a different point value so thats why you have to go into each load point seperatly.

Another way you can do this is go to your local tune shop who have the POWERFC software who can save your program to a disk for you incase you totally fark things up you can get them to load the old map back into it.

The first two lines in the first box does your idle. I wouldnt touch these.

What you need to do is go for a drive on a road where you can drive slow and accelerate up to the speed limit and back down again without causing too much hassle.

Take out 10 press's in each box in the first 5x5 but remember you dont want to touch line 1 and 2 in the first 5 because thats idle mixture.

Once you have taken out 10 press's from each cell you will then be able to get out of settings and go into monitor and then map tracer - this will tell you which part of the map you are using on the fly and drive the car in that box and see how the drivablilty has changed if it has not changed at all then you know you can go down a extra 5 press's in each cell and lean it off a bit more.

Keep doing this for 8 down and 15 across - do one box lot of 5 at a time then test the drivability in that area before deciding to put more fuel back in or take more out - if you start to get it running tooo lean then you will notice the car is not running very nice and will start to stutter and not be smooth this is where you put fuel back into it (to take fuel out you use the down arrow and to put fuel in you press the up arrow.

Remember you need to to press next after you have changed the value to save the setting if you press prv once you change the setting it will revert back to the unchanged value.

Another way to do it is to change all the values of 8 down and 10 across lower by 10 press's at a time and drive and test - that is easier or you could squeeze more economy out of it by doing 5x5 at a time. The reason why i have done 5x5 at a time is because the standard map is a good map but every car has different fuel pumps and they are all in different condition so all your doing is putting the map into a more economical place for your car if you get what i mean.

I tuned my RB30DET this way and pulled a 12.9 on the strip with it works great but dont do any boost tuning unless you have a autronic wideband a/f meter to be sure the mixtures are all correct.

[justin911]

cool thanks heaps for that, ill try it out 2nite

The Fuel map is at - Settings - INJ MAP

You go in here and crooze should be 10x10 anymore then that and you should be into boost.

A good way to get better economy from your car is to tune the sucker yourself - it does not really matter how lean or how advnced the timing is under vacume so this is what I did to get good economy.

My mate has a Autronic meter and a dyno and i have had time on the dyno and the autronic meter when I need it....  This is what I did.

I got my laptop and sat the car in the garage and went into th INJ map and the ING maps and typed EVERY setting into Microsoft excel.  Once i have done this i would create a graph and look at the map - (pretty funky stuff)

Anyway once you have all the sttings in (its best to actually go into every load point and put the number down as well as the . value as on crooze you will find lots of load points with the same number but they will have a different point value so thats why you have to go into each load point seperatly.

Another way you can do this is go to your local tune shop who have the POWERFC software who can save your program to a disk for you incase you totally fark things up you can get them to load the old map back into it.

The first two lines in the first box does your idle.  I wouldnt touch these. 

What you need to do is go for a drive on a road where you can drive slow and accelerate up to the speed limit and back down again without causing too much hassle.

Take out 10 press's in each box in the first 5x5 but remember you dont want to touch line 1 and 2 in the first 5 because thats idle mixture. 

Once you have taken out 10 press's from each cell you will then be able to get out of settings and go into monitor and then map tracer - this will tell you which part of the map you are using on the fly and drive the car in that box and see how the drivablilty has changed if it has not changed at all then you know you can go down a extra 5 press's in each cell and lean it off a bit  more.

Keep doing this for 8 down and 15 across - do one box lot of 5 at a time then test the drivability in that area before deciding to put more fuel back in or take more out - if you start to get it running tooo lean then you will notice the car is not running very nice and will start to stutter and not be smooth this is where you put fuel back into it (to take fuel out you use the down arrow and to put fuel in you press the up arrow. 

Remember you need to to press next after you have changed the value to save the setting if you press prv once you change the setting it will revert back to the unchanged value.

Another way to do it is to change all the values of 8 down and 10 across lower by 10 press's at a time and drive and test - that is easier or you could squeeze more economy out of it by doing 5x5 at a time.  The reason why i have done 5x5 at a time is because the standard map is a good map but every car has different fuel pumps and they are all in different condition so all your doing is putting the map into a more economical place for your car if you get what i mean. 

I tuned my RB30DET this way and pulled a 12.9 on the strip with it works great but dont do any boost tuning unless you have a autronic wideband a/f meter to be sure the mixtures are all correct.

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[paulr33]

the only reason i havent done INJ adjustment is based on sydeykids comments of leaning it out without a wideband 02, cos youll burn the exhaust valves. ive had my afr's checked on cruise and they are dead on 12.5 perfect

[justin911]

ok i was playing with the powerfc tonight... there was a loud bang.. followed by heaps of black smoke.... is this normal when tuning ?

jjuuust kidding

yeah i think i'll leave the fuel stuff on second thoughts until i get more of a clue on how it all works

thanks for all the info guys.

[Cubes]

Ive had my afr's checked on cruise and they are dead on 12.5 perfect

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Cruise your o2 sensor will take over and do its best based on the stock map to achieve 14.7:1.

The RB20DET used to run 14.7:1 until ~2psi of boost.

The RB30DET runs 14.7:1 under real light throttle then quickly drops to 12:1 due to it swallowing more air than the rb20det used to with a psi or two.

I will be having the RB30DET tuned at 14.7:1 until a psi or 2 boost as the rb20det stock ecu was.

This does reduce a little bit of off boost torque but really.. I don't care, if I want it up on boost quicker I'll drop it back a gear. Not that the 3ltr has an issue with boost build.

Edited October 2, 2005 by Cubes

[justin911]

so in theory if my o2 sensor was stuffed i could get the pfc tuned in the 'cruise' part of the map.. and then disable the o2 sensor alltogether ??

[paulr33]

yeah but i would see no good reason to leave it off. get the 02 sensor fixed if thats the case and still tune to low cruise areas, the ign advancedment ive done in my low load area has done wonders for driveability and fuel eco.