Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

StockyMcStock,

I had the entire engine built from ground up in the VL. This was something I asked for so the cooler pipes didnt go back over the engine because as everyone knows, heat rises!!!!

Give them a call mate and ask becuase i could only tell you that I spent $13,000 in total, no break down on the price.

btw, this was about 3 yrs ago now and I have sold the car...unfortunatly..

I have a cut and shut plenum identical to the one on the VL that i am looking at selling because i can get a greddy for $900 (brand new).

I have been told that the cut and shut is fine as long as you use a standard turbo and dont run more than 1 bar. The problem is that if you exceed that it will starve some of the cylinders.

If you where going to do a cut and shut you should probably cut a wedge out of the plenum starting at the front and increasing towards the back (then weld it up afterwards) so that your plenum tapers of towards the back. Then flow bench it and move the throttle body to the front and by then you could have just dont it properly and bought a greddy plenum (probably for the same amount of money)!!!

so whats the point of getting the plenum changed exactly?

the only real way to tell if it's leaning out a cylinder or two is to take EGT measurements off each cylinder. simply making more power is not what you're looking for. you want a plenum that will distribute evenly, not just flow more air, which is why i said flow testing is largely useless. all it really shows is that a runner has a larger diameter than another and will allow more air through at a given pressure.

just getting more power out of it is not such a useful indication that you have a better plenum, for instance it may simply be making more power because three of the cylinders are running white hot exhaust runners because of the mixture leanness there.

if i could afford a decent jap-brand plenum i would get it, but cutting up and modding the standard one would be a lot cheaper.

well you are welcome to do that. it is your car. People are just offering their opinions and/or experiences to make sure you make the best choice before rushing into it. Cause no one wants to see a fellow member make a hurried decision which may cause damage to their engine.

..... and that is why i have an industrial digital thermometer to measure the temps of each exhaust outlet.

so are you saying the runner diameters are different from factory, i would have to totally disagree.

even flow is the best indication of a plenum that will no casue vastly diff egt's.

I have s subzero plenum on my rb25. Regardless of what people say it does make a difference to power/ response. Also the turbo did spool up quicker (maybe less restriction with my 4 inch intake :unsure: I just sold it though (I think). Only problem is the FC has fits with it and I miss my cold start warm ups :D

Nice. Looks very custom. I agree with the piping verdict.

I have a greddy plenum on my 33...only reason i got it was for the piping change and the tidying up of the engine bay, more access to often checked or changed things.

Each to their own!

I just like the look of mine :)

If you wait a few months I may do some testing on our drag RB20 as we have pyros on each cylinder exhaust.

I was thinking of swapping my manifold onto it after first testing the standard one - RB20 though!

sorry i was referring to porting the inlet runners there, which is what most people do with a custom plenum anyway. how'd you set up the thermometer ISL33P? i'd be interested in doing this myself but you'd need six of the buggers, making it possibly very costly?

33SOM: i'm using a powerFC too, which is another reason i don't want to ditch the factory plenum with the AAC valve. cold starts etc are very useful things to have working well i have found.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
×
×
  • Create New...