Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an old Perfromance Metalcraft Jun Copy sump baffle sitting here out of another engine. It is basically an OEM windage tray with baffles and swinging gates welded to the bottom of it.

Are these okay, or would I be better off with the Tomei type baffle with rubber valves?

I would go for the trust extension and baffle kit, but don't much like the idea of losing ground clearance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89706-sump-baffles/
Share on other sites

I reckon it would probably be ok by the sound of it. I mean i have a tomei one at home and it's just a little square to go around the pickup with 8 little rubber trapdoors on it and a windage tray to go on top.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89706-sump-baffles/#findComment-1618999
Share on other sites

If it is a copy of the jun baffle it's better that the tomei one in my opinion. When you fit the tomei ones you lose part of the windage tray setup, that being the piece that the jun style baffle is welded to. The tomei ones supply a thin plate that bolts in instead with no louvres etc..

The jun style baffle has 4 large trapdoors that allow a lot of oil to flow in around the pickup, the tomei one has some holes with rubber flaps that don't allow as much oil to the pickup.

Either work better than no baffle but I'd go for the jun style one. We've used them in 8 or so engines and not had a bearing problem since. Performance metalcraft does some nice work so I imagine it's very well made.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89706-sump-baffles/#findComment-1621116
Share on other sites

amaru on these very forums bought tomei baffles and will never use them. apparently they're garbage. he had custom ones made up.

d

I never said they were garbage, the only reason I didnt use it was because my engine builder (who happens to have posted in this thread) also had one for my engine which was a JUN copy and that ended up going in... if he didnt have that, I was going to put the Tomei ones in.

Theres nothing wrong with the Tomei ones, but the JUN ones are a bit better designed. Saying that though, Tomei wouldnt sell a product that doesnt work :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89706-sump-baffles/#findComment-1621219
Share on other sites

I never said they were garbage, the only reason I didnt use it was because my engine builder (who happens to have posted in this thread) also had one for my engine which was a JUN copy and that ended up going in... if he didnt have that, I was going to put the Tomei ones in.

Theres nothing wrong with the Tomei ones, but the JUN ones are a bit better designed. Saying that though, Tomei wouldnt sell a product that doesnt work :P

haha fair enough... not exactly what you said to me tho :P

cheers

d

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89706-sump-baffles/#findComment-1624373
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
    • Hello friends, i have a good friend in Canada that looking for a good condition 1993 GTR around him please if one or know someone around you that is willing to let it go please let me know so that i can inform him.....Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...