Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no mate these were top $$ genuine r32 n1 turbs. Steel wheel front and rear and 270o bush bearings.

Great for their day but only a lunatic would buy a pair of turbos like that for 6k or whatever nissan wants these days.

Unless the regs require it.

Tubro shop was:

Precision Turbo Chargers - John

51/97 Newton Rd, Wetherill Park.

02 9756 5757

BTW no idea where the foreign object ended up, we never found it.

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hell yeah, and I've seen what some of the bandits want to rebuild turbos with steel wheels. My GTR turbs were about $2700 going by the receipt, but I'd be chasing some Garrett cheaters for that money, GTSS equivalents are about 1200-1300 each and look stock.

Hell yeah, and I've seen what some of the bandits want to rebuild turbos with steel wheels. My GTR turbs were about $2700 going by the receipt, but I'd be chasing some Garrett cheaters for that money, GTSS equivalents are about 1200-1300 each and look stock.

Hi there,

They are $2570 for the set.Garrett GT2860 -9 .$300 Extra with Tune agent manifolds.RB26dett.

Cheers.

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi there,

They are $2570 for the set.Garrett GT2860 -9 .$300 Extra with Tune agent manifolds.RB26dett.

Cheers.

Where is that from??

Could i bolt these onto an otherwise stock engine/support system for the time being? Same question for the GTSS kit. Thats my biggest problem really. I dont have the budget to go out and modify everything at this stage. Just want reliability..

Cheers,

Deren

Yeah, I must be getting old.. my new baby's totally standard besides a nismo rear muffler - and although I plan on doing the exhaust eventually I don't want it any louder :D

Certainly moves alright though.. it had 33,600km on it when I bought it so it's only just been run in! :D

Hi there,

They are $2570 for the set.Garrett GT2860 -9 .$300 Extra with Tune agent manifolds.RB26dett.

Cheers.

Where is that from??

Could i bolt these onto an otherwise stock engine/support system for the time being? Same question for the GTSS kit. Thats my biggest problem really. I dont have the budget to go out and modify everything at this stage. Just want reliability..

Cheers,

Deren

Anyone?

hahah don't ask me! I didn't even realise washers were bad for turbos!

Seriously though, larger turbos and everything else standard will work.....but not optimal, the injectors, afm and tune will all need doing to make the most of the turbos

Hmm well at this stage i dont even have a sports exhaust haha! The car was stock when imported. Never modified so im starting from scratch. So it'll be a decent improvement even with no support system mods?...Over standard anyway? My biggest query was that will it be safe to drive and run, ie:detonation...

Edited by Godzilla32
I put a screwdriver on the head next to my ear, and looked like a person with a screwdriver in my ear.

A fashionable alternative to a screwdriver in the ear, is a set of ear-muffs with a straightened coat hanger held to the outer of one of the ear cups.

P.S,

I'm sick of the gnomes getting a bad rap, so it's good to hear that no gnomes were involved with the destruction of this turbo.

A fashionable alternative to a screwdriver in the ear, is a set of ear-muffs with a straightened coat hanger held to the outer of one of the ear cups.

It works better if the coat hanger is bent into the shape of australia.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well kind of.

I made the people who built it:

Pull the motor out of the car

Pull the motor apart

Remove the gnomes while disassembling the bottom end

Take all the bits to the various machine shops

Pay for the machining and turbo repair

Pay for the new bearings, rings, oil pump, oil cooler, gaskets

And I am expecting them to

Reassemble motor

Seal all orifices to keep gnomes and similar out next time

Put it back in car

All the bits should be back from the machine shop in the next week, once we finally got started (12 months lol) it is moving pretty quickly.

Need to get it all back and running reliably since we now have a date with a bunch of tasmanian roads on 17-22 April next year.

Watch it on the Tassie roads, the gnomes tend too mark their territory down there on corners and stuff. Also next time just get a bigger tubbo so bolts, washers, gnomes and stuff can pass through the bigger fan blades and wont get broken.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah. air pressure leakdown test is where I would be headed next here, using one's ears to determine whether it's the valves or bores/rings leaking...
    • More likely you didn't bed the rings in correctly and have glazed the bores. Running with misfires on a fresh build is somewhat of a no-no. Surely no-one "smoke tests" the combustion chamber? That's what a leakdown test is for. Smoke testing is, um, a bit of a wank at best, and only really useful for external pipework.  
    • Well, obviously that kit is not a relocation kit or anything other than just the original isolators and the like. I would suggest that it should be a matter of just bending up some flat bar to build a mount over the top of some other diff, with the flat bar held to the back of the diff by the rear hat bolts. A little welding, a little thinking about how to secure the front of this structure, maybe some different hoses in case you can't get it in just the right place.
    • Pay diff/trans workshop to do this.   Nope. Z32 turbo ran R230 with 6 bolt GTR style axles. All other Z32 were R200. Basically same same as other R32 stuff. All were a viscous waste of space.
    • So, I'm not a diff swapsies specialist, but I am pretty sure the 300zx ran an R220 not and R200 like the C34 Stagea, so I think it is of no use to you. As you said, all you need to do is get the centre swapped in the diff you have, which might be best done by a diff specialist. The current centre is probably desirable to someone to track so an easy path might be to swap your mechanical centre for someone with a standard centre (which is a viscous LSD, and almost certainly won't have any limited left). The only thing you have to watch swapping R200 internals between diffs is that the number of splines on your car's stub axles has to match the donor car, or you need the centre+stub axles and make sure they have the same number and pattern of bolt holes as your rear axles.  You swap your current ratio onto the new centre so you don't have to worry about matching the front. Alternatively, centres like the Nismo pro are much gentler (and have adjustable "tightness") so you could buy on of those from somewhere like Jesse Streeter or Nengun (noting it may cost you 1234% extra in tariffs by the time it lands)
×
×
  • Create New...