My R33 Gts-t Came Back Today After A 4 Week Stay

[R33RWKW]

Hi Mate, My Full Engine Rebuild cost $6500.00. This Included all the good gear, & the block was O ringed etc... PM me if you want all the specs/parts.

The extras cost (Turbo/manifold/fuel/tuning) $$$, but I got some parts very cheap, cause I shpped around and didn't hurry.

Cheers

Chris

[R31Nismoid]

around 10-12k in total?

[Al]

Another quality job. Good to see that the stock cam'd RB25 heads pumping great power without the need to spend $$$ on em 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

But you will never know it's true potential, till you spend the $$$ on them :lol:

Just think how much power can be had with a good set of cams and some porting . You can make the same power, using less boost, better response and less stress on the engine.

[R33RWKW]

around 10-12k in total?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah around 12,

New Garrett GT30R - $1560.00 del from Sydney (I got this from a forum member, but won the bid on Ebay where it was alot cheaper than his asking price on SAU)

New HKS Lowmount Manifold - $900 del from Sydney.

Nismo 550cc Injectors - (Nengun) around $950 delivered

OS Giken Twin Plate $1800.00

Apexi PowerFC (Nengun) around $950.00 del

Splitfire Coil Pack - $560 - del -SAU Group Buy

Bosch 044 & surge tank setup in Boot - $1150approx Fitted.

HKS BOV $380.00 del from Japan Supplyer

$4000 spent at RacePace to install the Turbo/wastegate/Manifold/Injectors/tuning etc..

$400 - Setrab 19 row Oil Cooler & Perma-cool relocation Kit

$2270.00 Whiteline/Bilest/- Complete Suspension Package from Sydneykid's group buy.

$500 - GTR Bootlid & WING (included immaculate carbon fibre wing inserts)

$400 - Nismo 300km/hr speedo/ - dash full unit

Soon to spend more to finish car - Full Respray (except enginebay) in Polar White with a pearl through it.

Plus another $500.00 to install the suspension setup.

F**k This really adds up when someone aks you what you have spent.

Then It will be finished and Hopefully just spending on 5000km services (and Tyres!)

Cheers

Chris

[R33RWKW]

Deleted post - same as above

[R33RWKW]

Deleted

[R33RWKW]

Deleted

[Cubes]

Damn that labour.

I should think my self lucky I have facilities to do all my own work. Remove/install motors etc.

[R31Nismoid]

But you will never know it's true potential, till you spend the $$$ on them :lol:

Just think how much power can be had with a good set of cams and some porting .  You can make the same power, using less boost, better response and less stress on the engine.

I couldnt justify spending $900 on a set of cams, $600 (or more) on porting where the offset can be had by screwing in another 1-2psi to the thing to attain the same result, and that was free

cams probably wouldnt have increased response much at all, and the engine wasnt stressed by any means.

There was talk of 30psi a number of times... just to see, but $$ said otherwise.

The main reason i didnt however because everyone said. cams cams cams after 250/260.

And i was sure on good advice that i could get pretty close to 300 as the 25 head is quite good stock

My RB26 im doing now is a different kettle of fish however

[Cubes]

A concern if its a daily driver.

How will cams negatively affect fuel economy.

Edited October 6, 2005 by Cubes

[Downforce]

A concern if its a daily driver.

How will cams negatively affect fuel economy.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

:lol: just ask Pete (bass junky)

[R33RWKW]

A concern if its a daily driver.

How will cams negatively affect fuel economy.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

My fuel economy is pretty good - 450 to 500km driving normally.

If I put the foot down, I will only get 200 or so?

Does this sound right? - I/m not really thinking about cams now, it is a daily driver with a few drag meets now and then and maybe a few races on the circut for fun.

Cheers

Chris

[R33RWKW]

Are Cams the best way to reduce Boost levels, but keeping the power high?

I wouldn't mind trying other things first, without having to put cams in.

[Sydneykid]

Lower boost, higher airflow and more power are all about removing/reducing the restrictions. After all boost is simply a measure of restrictions, it is airflow that makes power. The usual restrictions are;

A. Exhaust, turbo back including dump and cat

B. Inlet, before the turbo. Pipework, undersized AFM, air filter

C. Inlet, from the turbo to the inlet valves. Pipework, intercooler, throttle body, plenum, inlet manifold, ports.

D. Turbine, the turbine itself can be a major restriction. It has to small enough to give good boost response and yet large enough not to be too big a restriction.

E. Engine, valve sizes (both inlet and exhaust), valve springs (too light and they will cause valve float), cams, cam timing (adj cam pulleys).

Some of these items are not a problem at your power level, a lot of the items are never a problem on RB's, the usual suspects are;

1. Tuning, how close is the tuning?

2. exhaust, turbo back

3. intercooler and pipework

4. cams

5. valve springs

6. ports, every RB cylinder head needs porting

What I do is to work my way down the list, checking on the dyno each item (eg; drop the exhaust in front of the cat and see how much power it is costing, remove the air filter etc). There is no magic, just thorough testing.

cheers

Edited October 7, 2005 by Sydneykid

[R33RWKW]

Lower boost, higher airflow and more power are all about removing/reducing the restrictions.  After all boost is simply a measure of restrictions, it is airflow that makes power.  The usual restrictions are;

A. Exhaust, turbo back including dump and cat

B. Inlet, before the turbo.  Pipework, undersized AFM, air filter

C. Inlet, from the turbo to the inlet valves.  Pipework, intercooler, throttle body, plenum, inlet manifold, ports.

D. Turbine, the turbine itself can be a major restriction.  It has to small enough to give good boost response and yet large enough not to be too big a restriction.

E. Engine, valve sizes (both inlet and exhaust), valve springs (too light and they will cause valve float), cams, cam timing (adj cam pulleys).

Some of these items are not a problem at your power level, a lot of the items are never a problem on RB's, the usual suspects are;

1. Tuning, how close is the tuning?

2. exhaust, turbo back

3. intercooler and pipework

4. cams

5. valve springs

6. ports, every RB cylinder head needs porting

What I do is to work my way down the list, checking on the dyno each item (eg; drop the exhaust in front of the cat and see how much power it is costing, remove the air filter etc).  There is no magic, just thorough testing.

cheers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks Gary

The tuning is Excellent (RacePace Motorsport)

EXHAUST - well it is a fairly used, but new CAT, JASMA 3.5" system - might check again.

Intercooler, used but seems to be working fine (Apexi GT Spec, could do with upgraded pipes maybe?

CAMS - STD RB25DET

Valve Springs - I think these are std, but I will double check.

Head Porting - This was done properly, full rebuild with a excellent porting job

Plenum is STD

(Before Turbo/ECU/Mnifold/Inj/Coils (etc) mods were done the fully rebuilt engine made 213RWKW at 14psi using Apexi FMIC, SAFC 2, Bosch 044 fuel pump & surge tank etc.. BOOST cut was the restriction here,

I think if it was dynoed with the Power FC then, it would have kept going a fair bit more.

Cheers

Chris

[R33RWKW]

Ash, I just asked Ben about the dump pipe and screamer pipe.

3" Dump (3.5" would have been good though!) - Maybe one day, who knows.

2" Screamer

[R31Nismoid]

thats awesome then

If I put the foot down, I will only get 200 or so?

Does this sound right?

Yeah, i regularly saw 200-->250 to a tank

[Al]

Looks like my theories, on progression of modifications, are in line with Gary's (Sydneykid), but i am doing all of them at the same time :lol:

Gotta be happy with that!

The only concern may be my exhaust system, as i intend to make it even quiter (again). My first system only had a short "hotdog" and a straight through cannon muffler; bloody loud but bareable. My second/current system was changed to a long "hotdog" and a hi-flow muffler, deep on idle but pretty resonable while driving (alot quiter than previous). I am now going to remove the "hotdog" and replace it with a second hi-flow muffler. I have been told that i would only loose a maximum of 5-6rwkw from the original set-up, but am willing to sacrifice a little rwkw to hopefully sneak under the police radar .

[The Mafia]

you know, I like your attitude.

[Jetdat]

Hi Chris;

just wondering how much lighter your flywheel is over standard, if at all...and how it effects drivability/performance..

i am in the process of changing my clutch and pondering if its worth getting a lightened flywheel, and how much lighter...

although at the moment i only have 200rwkws, i am aiming for around 260-280..

cheers