Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Every time I have my car closed for a couple of hours or more I get a nose full of stale cigarette smell.

Being a non-smoker and astmatic it isn't the nices greeting I could get every time I open the car door.

Installing my headunit about a month ago I took off the gear boot and other bits and pieces around that area and vacumed up a substancial amount of cigarette ash.

Unfortunatly the car still stinks.

Is there any way I can get rid of this smell, or should I give up and buy one of those air freshners and stick it on the air vent?

I know jimX has raised this question in another thread in november last year about cleaning out the air conditioning or something but he got no useful answers.

Thanks for any advice,

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8975-stale-cigarette-smell/
Share on other sites

Go and buy a bottle of spray and keep it on the glovebox. I give 2 squirts every couple of days (the spray that is) just to keep it fresh. Almost every single person i know that has been in my car or sat in it comments on the smell (the flavour is vanilla and cost me about $5 12mths or more ago).

Thanks heaps to Mat the previous owner for keeping my car in A1 condition its really appreciated.

:(

Haha, this is funny. I was just about to write up another thread about the aircon system but I may as well just reply here.

Firstly, buy yourself a can of air conditioning cleaner from a Nissan dealer or something. Mine cost me $30.

But now here's my question - Where are the air conditioning intakes? Is it beneath the plastic mesh under the windscreen wipers? The reason I ask is because you have to spray the whole can in there.

I'll let you know how mine goes after I figure out where to spray the contents of my can :(

Guest Boxhead

lol...

a little off topic, but not to much, i play ice hockey and the gear gets very very sweaty and stinky, basicaly every couple of weeks i use FEBREEZE on it, and it seems to work for a week..

so thats my suggestion.. try spraying febreeze on the seats and carpet etc, also clean your air con, coz that will stop the smell being re applied to your fabirc inside the car

Pull your gearknob off, remove the dash (do a search for explicit instructions) remove your stereo and any guages you have mounted in the dash.

I would thoroughly clean all the plastic vents and passages with a damp cloth, then spray with a eucalyptus (sp?) oil/water mixture (being ashmatic you may know all about inhaling eucalyptus vapours etc). This kind of mixture will help you clean grime off and will not only mask the smell of smoke, but also get rid of it. If you spray freshener everywhere, chances are it will f**k with you even worse then just the smoke). With the dash off you should be able to get a fair amount of it clean. Also get rid of ALL dust you can get the vac to.

Remove all the matts, vacum them. Then vacum car.

Once this is done I would bust out the Britex from Woolworths (Safeway). Usually around $25 for a night. This does wonders for your car. Just use cheap wool wash don't buy the Britex detegent crap.

Now cut sick on you car with the Britex. Change the water often. Don't forget the roof, back seats, the back of the front seats, the matts you vacumed etc. If you are getting a bad smell, I would let it air overnight, then do it again in the morning.

Not only will you get rid of +90% of the smell, you're fabric will looks outstanding and it will feel a lot nicer. This also has been known to generate around 15nose kw, so watch out for the extra power.

Also with cleaning out the aircon, once you remove your dash, you should be able to work out which vent to spray that can into.

Just remember that you need to take it nice and slow, do it right the first time so you don't need to get the britex out again.

Try and leave the windows open for a bit one day if u can - that makes a big difference..then put in an airfreshener thingo or now then i've just got out a standard household airspray. That stuff is stronger than any car stuff and will kill the smell. Although then again u won't smell anything else but the spray so make sure u like it!!

U could also shampoo the seats, maybe the cigarette smell is embedded in there. Otherwise just take it to some place and pay $120 or so and they'll fully detail it inside and out and make it smell like new.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...