R34 Gtr Ball Bearing Turbos

[GTRgeoff]

You and me both.  Its bizarre that a couple of grand on new turbos suddenly seems like "cheap" insurance

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Consider that some unlucky buggers are paying a couple of grand insurance each year..........glad it's not me AND the turbos are rebuilt.

[wrxhoon]

yes, i guessed it's probably just HKS actuators on stock turbos.

Jerry, i was joking about hitting them with a hammer to check if they are steel or not!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[/

I know , of course you are not going to hammer them !

[Beer Baron]

haha, you have never seen me work on a car then! it was quite a reasonable assumption to make. If it can't be hammered it can't be fixed. this rule goes for electronics too.

Lucien: it's not so much the 3 grand to buy the turbos, it's that if i buy them i will not bother putting stock dumps back on, so that will be another grand, then i will be past the limit of the injectors (already pretty maxed with the current 253rwkw), plus the fuel pump, there is another grand, will also want to go cams while i'm at it, there's another grand. And to be honest i'm quite happy with the way the car is now. very responsive, it goes hard enough for now. once i am cutting some really fast lap times then i will do all the above in one hit

[JeeTeeEss25Tee]

Just curious and probably a dumb idea but how much would the labour cost be to take out your turbo to check whether they r ceramic or steel (rb25) ?

[SteveL]

it would take some hard physics and experiments to prove it though I would say..

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Actually would probably take me about an hour (less) with a sample of the 'dust' and the remains of the wheel - but note I'm not offering to do it, I really don't have the time, plus I'm a born sceptic

[lwells]

Lucien: it's not so much the 3 grand to buy the turbos, it's that if i buy them i will not bother putting stock dumps back on, so that will be another grand, then i will be past the limit of the injectors (already pretty maxed with the current 253rwkw), plus the fuel pump, there is another grand, will also want to go cams while i'm at it, there's another grand. And to be honest i'm quite happy with the way the car is now. very responsive, it goes hard enough for now. once i am cutting some really fast lap times then i will do all the above in one hit

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes, I agree... I'm already heading down this path. New dump/front already ordered, PFC ordered, bigger exhaust ordered, will have to get cam gears (would prefer poncams + gears, but $$$), probably end up with new turbos shortly. Its a bit of a trap. Still, I figure if you get small enough replacement turbos you can still have them near their effeciency range whilst only getting 250-odd rwkw but still have headroom. That way you can keep the stock fuel system (and cams), not have a laggy ho, and when funds allow additional upgrades get a nice extra kick.

At least the rest of the stock parts aren't a ticking time bomb.

[sewid]

I have the same sleeping problems with my stock turbos. Cheap insurance would be a set of garrett turbos but i'm not going to be happy with those. So HKS turbos it is at $4k + $1.3k dump pipes + injectors + fuel pump + ECU + other bits and pieces. It doesnt stop!

[GTR-Ben]

Actually would probably take me about an hour (less) with a sample of the 'dust' and the remains of the wheel - but note I'm not offering to do it, I really don't have the time, plus I'm a born sceptic

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I mean to trace what actually happens in the "explosion" of the exhaust wheel

One reason some engine are not damaged might be the fact that sometimes the wheel just drops off.. and sits in the exhaust, while others have almost nothing left.

[Topaz]

I also have R34 turbos in my R32 GTR and to my understanding they are Garrett T03 turbos which are ball bearing turbos with a CERAMIC wheel

See Here...

do you have T03's Turbz?...

[Beer Baron]

Yes, I agree... I'm already heading down this path.  New dump/front already ordered, PFC ordered, bigger exhaust ordered, will have to get cam gears (would prefer poncams + gears, but $$$), probably end up with new turbos shortly.  Its a bit of a trap.  Still, I figure if you get small enough replacement turbos you can still have them near their effeciency range whilst only getting 250-odd rwkw but still have headroom.  That way you can keep the stock fuel system (and cams), not have a laggy ho, and when funds allow additional upgrades get a nice extra kick.

At least the rest of the stock parts aren't a ticking time bomb.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

yeah, for me 250-260 rwkw is as far as i want to go on stock injectors and AFMs. at 253 rwkw my injectors occasionaly hit the magic 100 briefly. but my PFC is tuned quite rich at high rpm for a little extra safety, so with an AFR closer to say 12:1 you could get to 260rwkw and still be just into the 90s duty cycle wise.

I definately think if you are doing the turbos (no matter which ones) it's worth doing the injectors and pump and possibly afms too.

[Turbz_13]

im not sure if they are T03's i got them on the car. i also have been told that they are basicly t28bb's with a smaller exhaust housing.

[Topaz]

Lucky I found this thread again (after 4 months)...see, I know how to use the search button

Anyway, I have a PFC and EBC coming soon and with the R34 turbos boosted to 1bar (0.7bar at the moment), is that suitable for a track day or a few quarter mile runs? Seen as though 1bar is the max that everyone is saying to boost them too I am a little paranoid about them blowing up....

I have plans to get some steel wheel bolt on replacement turbos later on but not for a few years after this PFC tune next month.

If a D-Jetro is tuned right with the boost set at 1bar, what sort of power will I expect? 250-260kW? and is it worth getting it set at 0.9bar instead?

cheers

[Beer Baron]

it's hard to predict mate if they will be ok or not. if you really want to be safe you need to get some steel wheels in there. if you can take the stress, just run them at 1 bar and see how it goes.

[Guest Mashrock]

i run 1.4 on my turbos, i dont have a clue what they are. but they f**king love it

[Topaz]

i run 1.4 on my turbos, i dont have a clue what they are. but they f**king love it

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If you have alook down the back of the AFM's on the exhaust side of the engine you can see the front turbo, I could see Garrett and an A/R rating on mine maybe you could have a look see?

[Guest Mashrock]

the car isnt with me at the moment but there is a garrett from memory and then a blank raised up bit. where it looks like something should be..

but from what i get from a very cluttered auction sheet is

N1 turbo

N1 piston

Edited February 20, 2006 by Mashrock

[gucio]

I have had a read of the thread and i still have a couple of questions, which is are R34 gtr turbos steel or ceramic and how can you check if they are?

Serial numbers?

The reason I ask is because someone is selling them and has told me that they have a steel exhaust wheel.

Also is there a point in buying r34 stock gtr turbos to replace stock r32 ones?

Cheers

[Adriano]

34 GTR turbod are obviously newer. put a magnet on the exhaust wheel, steel it will stick, ceramic=not

[gucio]

Good point Adriane never thought of that one

Also does any know of any horsepower figures when it come to the R34 turbos as I have been told 350hp does that sound right?

and another thing are all r34 gtr turbos ball bearing?

cheers

[Turbz_13]

still to date i havent found out if the are steel or ceramic!!

yeah they are ball bearing, i am running 14psi thro mine, keeping it safe as i was told the did have steel wheels on, from a scratch test but i stiull wanna be safe. my car is making 321rwhp or 239.8rwkw's with 14psi. and a slipping clutch haha!

good luck and i hope this helps