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i just got my car tested and adjusted suspension wise and was wondering if it mached any other cars on here?

keep in mind my car is a daily driver and used for the ocasional spirt on the track

i have adjustable every thing so your ideas are valued, this is the area where i have no idea so make your explinations clear please

i have atached the diagnosis

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89833-r32-suspension-set-up/
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i just got my car tested and adjusted suspension wise and was wondering if it mached any other cars on here?

keep in mind my car is a daily driver and used for the ocasional spirt on the track

i have adjustable every thing so your ideas are valued, this is the area where i have no idea so make your explinations clear please

i have atached the diagnosis

Your numbers - particularly castor & camber are conservative. Have a look at the Whiteline website for a first pass for settings. You will find a sheet on GT-R's, not sure about GTS-T, but then you haven't said what you own.

Couple of things - firstly you need to understand what effect changes will have & also what you want from your suspension. There are any number of books/tutorials available so best bet is to start there.

Secondly what one person likes on a track can be completely different to the next. Your suspension setup will determine how the car feels.

Thirdly what is needed to work well on a race track can be a real handful on the road.

Finally what looks after your tyres on the track (Mostly castor & camber) can shorten their life on the road.

with my limited knowledge i would want less negative camber on the rear (if you do have 'adjustable everything' this should be possible) and also have the rear camber set a bit closer to even.

i reckon a bit more neg camber on the front and some more castor on the front too would be nice if you plan on some track work.

i guess it depends on what you wanted from them?

i just got my car tested and adjusted suspension wise and was wondering if it mached any other cars on here?

keep in mind my car is a daily driver and used for the ocasional spirt on the track

i have adjustable every thing so your ideas are valued, this is the area where i have no idea so make your explinations clear please

i have atached the diagnosis

Looking at the caster readings I woulds say it's an R32GTR, if it's an R32GTST then it has some serious problems.

Front

1. Caster They should be even, with slightly more on the LHS to stop the drift to the left caused by the road camber (there to make the rain water flow into the gutter). The +1.62 LHS is no where near enough, the RHS at +2.38 is also not enough. You should be looking at 5 degrees minimum, any less than that and GTR's understeer badly, they are reluctant to turn into corners and feel vague in a straight line.

2. Camber Around 1 degree negative is OK for a road car, having some adjustment would be handy for track use where 2.5 degrees is a good place to start. Having a little extra camber on the LHS 1.04 compared to the RHS 0.87 helsp a little bit with the drift to the left, but it also has the effect of wearing out the inside of LHS tyre.

3. Toe They have set toe out, which helps reduce the understeer, but 0.6/0.5 is hardly enough for the track. I would be looking at around 1 to 2mm of toe out each side.

Rear

4. Camber Around 0.5 degree negative is OK for a road car, having some adjustment would be handy for track use where 1.0 to 1.5 degrees is a good place to start. The current different settings, LHS 1.83 and 1.01 RHS, is not a good idea, it will cause the power oversteer to be different in left and right hand corners.

5. Toe They have set toe out, which helps reduce the understeer. It looks like they have tried to compensate for the lack of LHS front caster by setting different toe on the rear (LHS +1.1 mm and RHS +0.6mm). Better to fix the caster problem on the front rather than add a band aid solution. For the track I would be looking at around 2 to 3mm of toe out each side as long as the rear it is not too nervous under brakes.

The solutions;

1. Adjustable caster bushes

2. Adjustable front camber bushes

3. Use the standard toe adjuster

4. Adjustable rear camber bushes, if the standard rear camber adjusters are already at full adjustment

5. Use the standard toe adjuster

Prices as per the R32GTR Group Buy

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87521

KCA332 Caster Kit $115.00

KCA348 Front Camber kit $272.00

KCA347 Rear Camber Kit $123.00

Add around $25 for freight

Hope that was of some help

:D cheers :(

thanks SK who else would have known this so well

Oh, I am not unique, there are 5 or 6 other guys in Australia (that I know of) who could have told you the same things.

:D cheers :O

  • 6 months later...

i thought i would up date the topic the car has not been on the track since the adjustments made above in my inital post the car has been driven like 15,000k's and the efect of driving the car with out doing what sk told me it has scrubed the inside of the front tyers and there is a diffrence in cornering ability. It will go around a right corner realy well but a left corner it feels firm but just not confident if thats the word for it

is this what you would have expected to happen sk?

i thought i would up date the topic the car has not been on the track since the adjustments made above in my inital post the car has been driven like 15,000k's and the efect of driving the car with out doing what sk told me it has scrubed the inside of the front tyers and there is a diffrence in cornering ability. It will go around a right corner realy well but a left corner it feels firm but just not confident if thats the word for it

is this what you would have expected to happen sk?

Yes

:) cheers :O

well i havent driven the car in a long time and i know i should have used sk advice, and for a refrence i informed every one what could happen as 15,000 k's isnt very much distance. the car went into fulcrum the so called skyline experts to get all these little bugs iorned out only haveing to take it back to have them adjust it some more are we on the same page now people. the front tyers are not a consern to me i will just buy new ones the rear tyers are in perfect condition and as i tryed to ask in the previous post the alterations that are recomended by sk are they still valid as the rears arnt being scrubed?

once again is this what you would have expected to happen to the front tyers sk?

hmm smart people in here.

i drift lots and drive hard every were,never got wheel allignment to 2 months ago or so

my front is -1.5 camber

-5 toe

rear camber is 2.5

rear toe -3

since then it slides well in the ass is alot more responsive but when i push it threw the hills the front doesnt stik/turn hard enough what should i do ????

all help appreciated

hmm smart people in here.

i drift lots and drive hard every were,never got wheel allignment to 2 months ago or so

my front is -1.5 camber

-5 toe

rear camber is 2.5

rear toe -3

since then it slides well in the ass is alot more responsive but when i push it threw the hills the front doesnt stik/turn hard enough what should i do ????

all help appreciated

My 20 cents;

1. What's the caster? That's the important bit for turn in.

2. Front camber is OK, too much rear camber though, around 0.5 to 1.0 degrees negative is good for road use.

3. Toe in on the rear? I would be looking at toe out, for more response to steering inputs.

4. Judging by the camber figures, it's most likely too low for good handling. What's the ride height? Centre of wheel to guard on all 4 corners.

:D cheers :D

cheers sydney kid....castor non adjustable so didnt worry about remembering

rear camber is adjusted to max as in i cant go less,thus y he said toe the rear in my tyres will last longer

i will measure height later,not low low but front and rear guards level with tyres

cheers

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