Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Group: Members

Posts: 340

Joined: 20th April, 2004

Member No.: 10,298

Skylines Australian a drag strip scenario, 15" rims , high wall micky tompson slicks on rear. smaller walll profile on 15' rims also with MT on front.

Bieng that it is a straight run and hope fully with slicks on back that there should not be too much wheel spin at the front , what could be the outcome .Will it hurt any thing?

For i see that the attessa should not activate if the back is not spinning, particularly down the majority the strip , but rather a tweak in gear changes?

You thoughts and experience please. dry.gif

T

Group: Members

Posts: 340

Joined: 20th April, 2004

Member No.: 10,298

Skylines Australian a drag strip scenario, 15" rims , high wall micky tompson slicks on rear. smaller walll profile on 15' rims also with MT on front.

Bieng that it is a straight run and hope fully with slicks on back that there should not be too much wheel spin at the front , what could be the outcome .Will it hurt any thing?

For i see that the attessa should not activate if the back is not spinning, particularly down the majority the strip , but rather a tweak in gear changes?

You thoughts and experience please. dry.gif

T

to try and answer your question. if the rear wheels are not spinning why bother drag racing a 4WD car? you may as well just disconnect ATTESA or run your engine in a GTST, or a Torana.

The Attessa will activate. You might notice that under brisk accelleration the torque gauge will climb a bit without any wheel spin under normal circumstances. If you have a bucket load of power then it's going to be very hard to stop the rears spinning on a big launch. I believe that a torque split controller is going to be worth a look to get more from the front early and the abillity to put some heat in the rear tyres before you stage, unless you want to plumb in a switch to turn the attessa off for that.

With slicks on you are going to load up the driveline, basically traction comes at a cost, wheelspin softens the blow so to speak but does slow you down. The shock is higher the more power you have and the more traction you get off the line.

Have you had much to do with the drag strip with the car in it's old setup? With a large horspower upgrade I can imagine the learning curve will be big at any rate.

hope that helps

ATTESSA sends power to the front before wheel spin occurs. It's a pro-active setup rather than re-active. It's going to be sending power to the fronts for sure under the kind of acceleration you'll be experiencing at the drag strip.

Ok,

lets assume we get wheel spin and the fronts grab and all is norm.

What about the different profile tyres back and rear?

What will be the adverse effect on the drive train?

Satiracally-- i do not think that there will be any.

Who begs to differ?

The Attessa will activate. You might notice that under brisk accelleration the torque gauge will climb a bit without any wheel spin under normal circumstances. If you have a bucket load of power then it's going to be very hard to stop the rears spinning on a big launch. I believe that a torque split controller is going to be worth a look to get more from the front early and the abillity to put some heat in the rear tyres before you stage, unless you want to plumb in a switch to turn the attessa off for that.

With slicks on you are going to load up the driveline, basically traction comes at a cost, wheelspin softens the blow so to speak but does slow you down. The shock is higher the more power you have and the more traction you get off the line.

Have you had much to do with the drag strip with the car in it's old setup? With a large horspower upgrade I can imagine the learning curve will be big at any rate.

hope that helps

Thank you , sensible approach and answer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All 3 I guess. The car came with the JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit unpainted so this was one thing at the top of my list to complete then I noticed there were body panels parts for this kit so i picked them up along with some black mesh to fill in the front bumper and front side air vents. car is at a paint and body shop atm completing this work. Next I will be addressing the internal bells and whistles, great summer project I can do with the kids.  full interior removal - ,boys car sound deadening - pads and spray ,boys stereo, sound, lighting - Big 3, GTT or bigger alternator ,kids head lining - dye black add star lighting mod ,daughter. That's it for the next 5-6 months. I have some motor maintenance  work i have to plan out. oil filter relocation, gaskets, mounts. beyond that, mind is starting to turn over if i can use a DET intake plenum, block off turbo ports & pipe in a air intake.      
    • roller coaster of a ride. Alarm system was removed & main harness was repaired where possible. still no fix just random successful starts. moved on to the replacing the ignition switch and relay. well all this troubleshooting & repair has been going on, the car is at a paint and body shop being pushed around. Ive been going down there on odd days after work to get it sorted.     
    • 5th November if you want to come out for a spin wakfield
    • PROBLEM WAS BROKEN COOLANT SENSOR!!! Replaced with a new one and its running mint.
    • I think he was only proposing to use the wire, not the sender. Simply because it runs from the right place to the right place. Personally, I wouldn't hack up the factory wiring like that. I'd just lay in the Defi loom.
×
×
  • Create New...