Will This Make 350rwkw

[R31Nismoid]

N1 oil/water pumps also.

you can drop the fuel reg, as stated before. No need for one

[Sydneykid]

N1 oil/water pumps also.

you can drop the fuel reg, as stated before. No need for one

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No, definitely not an N1 water pump. They are designed for continuously high rpm running in an RB26 (ie; circuit racing), exactly NOT what you want in an RB30 for road and drag use.

cheers

[Amaru]

King bearings

Also, just curious what type of drive to the RB30 crankshafts have for the oil pump? Do they need to be collared along the same lines as the early RB26 cranks?

[Sydneykid]

King bearings

Also, just curious what type of drive to the RB30 crankshafts have for the oil pump? Do they need to be collared along the same lines as the early RB26 cranks?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

RB30 cranks have the same oil pump drive flanges as RB20's, RB25's and early RB26's.

cheers

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

Last person that I sent to Nizpro for a crank girdle was rejected. He said he no longer does them they where to much f'ing around, plus they where designed to suit a gtr sump the ones he makes so there is no point unless you are running a 4wd sump, which i guess you probably will be....

Standard rods over 320rwkw=bad. Rods are cheap now so its worth while doing. I have a rb30 with standard 25 head with rev rods and arias pistons putting out 550hp at the wheels on only 15psi, has done over 5 thousand k's, hasnt missed a beat. Another engine has the even cheaper eagle rods and has put out over 600hp at the wheels and has clocked a fair few miles and is fine. For the extra 1500 or so its worth the effort, and it will save you in the long run.

SK you have reved a rb30 to over 9 thats impressive, I am making a billet crank gidle for mine at the moment ad was only going to rev it to 8.5... I can see why Nizpro charge around 4g for the girdle there is massive amount of work involved in the project. the raw materials alone cost and arm and a leg. 70mm plate aluminium, cha ching!!!!!

[Scribble]

metal gasket instead of o-ringing the block

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Can i ask your reasons into this? As i was looking at O-ringing the block as i heard metal head gaskets have a tendancy to leak?

[Scribble]

No, definitely not an N1 water pump.  They are designed for continuously high rpm running in an RB26 (ie; circuit racing), exactly NOT what you want in an RB30 for road and drag use.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Does this rule the apply to the N1 oil pump as well?

[Scribble]

RB30 cranks have the same oil pump drive flanges as RB20's, RB25's and early RB26's.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

In the zoom write up on their RB26 rebuild they welded and machined the crank to fit the R33 pump surface the same as the R33 GTR crank. Would this be an idea?

[R31Nismoid]

No, definitely not an N1 water pump.  They are designed for continuously high rpm running in an RB26 (ie; circuit racing), exactly NOT what you want in an RB30 for road and drag use.

cheers

thanks for the correction

always reliable gary

[Sydneykid]

In the zoom write up on their RB26 rebuild they welded and machined the crank to fit the R33 pump surface the same as the R33 GTR crank. Would this be an idea?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Nope, welding a crank is not a good idea. The heat weakens the localised area and there is a heavy harmonic balancer hanging off that end of the crank. you could possibly do it and them do some heat treating, but the total cost would be excesive. Cheaper to buy a Jum adaptor collar, and they are expensive.

A usual, Zoom have left out a considerable amount of detail, maybe they want to protect some secrets. Which is OK, but it makes people think something is a simple job when it really isn't. Very dangerous practise and I wish they would issue warnings when they leave out important stuff like that.

With our race team machinist, I have been working on an adaptor collar so we can use the later/larger RB26 oil pump drives on the RB20/25/30 cranks. The first one gets a test run in my RB31DET next week. We then have 12 X RB30DET's to fit them to. They look pretty simple but the dimensions (internal and external) have to be very precise, the target price is $200 plus GST. If they work OK, I will set up a Group Buy on them, so watch the Group Buy section for more details.

cheers

[DoughBoy]

$200 for a locally produced crank collar? Isn't the JUN one the same price? Or does that include fitting?

[Sydneykid]

SK you have reved a rb30 to over 9 thats impressive, I am making a billet crank gidle for mine at the moment ad was only going to rev it to 8.5... I can see why Nizpro charge around 4g for the girdle there is massive amount of work involved in the project. the raw materials alone cost and arm and a leg. 70mm plate aluminium, cha ching!!!!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yep, the raw materials cost a bomb, and you end up with 80% of it as swarf. The one we made (never making another one, so don't ask) took weeks. I would like to do one and just machine the top 5-6 mm off the main bearings. That means it wouldn't need to be as thick and I could make it out of mild steel. I reckon it would be 99% as strong with 1/3 the effort. Plus I could incorporate the 4wd sump adaptor into it in one go for RB30's into GTR's. I will have to leave it as an idea for about 12 months, otherwise the machinist will kill me after the effort he put into the last one.

cheers

[Sydneykid]

$200 for a locally produced crank collar? Isn't the JUN one the same price? Or does that include fitting?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That would be fitted Chris and the flanges machined, it's not really a backyard job.

Have you bought a Jun one lately?

cheers

[DoughBoy]

That would be fitted Chris and the flanges machined, it's not really a backyard job.

Have you bought a Jun one lately?

cheers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes, and my ass still hurts from the experience.

[Sydneykid]

Yes, and my ass still hurts from the experience.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

May I be so bold as to ask how much and from whom?

For comparison, the last Jun one I bought (a few years ago and the pain is still there) was around $500, and that was on top of the $1600 for the Jun oil pump.

cheers

[Al]

Gary (Sydneykid): Sorry if you had explained this b4, but it is the first time i have read it; Why do you not recommend putting a N1 water pump on a street car?

Thanks

Alan

[DoughBoy]

FWIW have gotten the JUN collars in from $200-$240, and fitting from $150-$250. Usual complaints of "OMG bro, it's a forged crank and it's going to take me months to grind it down! Do you know how much this is going to cost?....."

Pumps from $500 used to $1000 new. JUN + GREX brands, pretty much identical except for the anodizing on the oil relief.

[discopotato03]

For the RB nubies can someone explain the whole RB30/early 26 pump drama . I don't own an RB crank yet and can't work out if the flats on the nose of the crank are narrower or not as long across wise . Was the later fix a larger diametre nose with the same between the flats distance so longer flats ?

The adapter ring , is this shrunk into place and new flats ground or milled .

Cheers A .

[Sweetleaf]

With a new 26 crank costing $990+GST why would anyone spend $600 on the oilpump drive then the rest of the reco cost?