Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey gang, i'm not sure if this has been discussed before, I ran the usual search strings before I made this post and couldn't find anything, so i'll have to assume the answer is no.

Anywho, back to my topic, i'm looking at getting a FMIC for the liner in the not to distant future, however the majority of kits I have seen have the metalic (chrome?) finish on the intercooler core. My question is, if I were to buy one of these cores and paint it in say a matt black finish would this adversly effect the performance of the intercooler? Ie its ability to flow air, or cool the the air effectively? Would painting it black absorb a significant amount more heat during the day to adversly effect the cooling effect of the core during the day? (we all know black absorbs heat). I want to paint it black, because I dont really feel the need to let the whole world know I've got a core.

While i'm on the topic, just two other quick questions if anyone could answer would be great. For street use is it better to use a tube and fin or bar and plate type core, and what's the difference, and finally are there any significant advantages to using a cooler with return comming back under the cooler, some people i've talked to say these takes up less piping and reduces lag and pressure drop, is this correct?

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer me guys, -Tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89984-painting-fmic/
Share on other sites

hmmm... Its a fact that anything black will absorb heat easier and not dissapate it as fast, however, im not sure how much power you would lose. tube and fin... im not sure, but u usually get wat u pay for with intercoolers. under the intercooler piping is also a good question. cant help you there, im interested in this also.

Edited by bilbo117
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89984-painting-fmic/#findComment-1622389
Share on other sites

Cheers for that info - so you did a 'light' coat... how about the primer. What brand was that, and how thick did you spray it?

Getting an Apexi U-bend style fmic and would like to keep the stealth look of my Stagea......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89984-painting-fmic/#findComment-1623841
Share on other sites

It's in reference to computer heatsinks, but is 100% valid to this discussion, Q&A article taken from http://www.dansdata.com/io042.htm (also published in the Atomic Magazine).

Is black better?

Recently, as part of our electronics course, we learned about the properties of heat sinks. The course notes (and exam mark schemes) claim that to make a heat sink more efficient it should be painted matte black.

I understand that this would make it more efficient, but my friend and I wondered why CPU heat sinks are not painted matte black? Most other heat sinks (attached to amplifiers etc) seem to be painted in this fashion, so why not CPU heat sinks?

Peter

Answer: Your course notes are right, and they're wrong.

A black object will, all things being equal, radiate heat better than one of any other colour. However, painting a shiny heat sink black may do nothing, or less than nothing, for its thermal performance, because the layer of paint acts as an insulator. The black colour must be an integral quality of the heat sink material, or a very thin, thermally conductive layer on the outside; black-anodised aluminium is a perfect example of a good black heat sink material. It's possible to put a useful thermal black patina on copper by putting it in a hot sodium hydroxide and sodium chloride solution bath (also useful for disposing of corpses), but that's neither a quick nor an easy process, so people usually only bother doing that for copper that's being used as a thermal absorber, as in solar water heaters, not on heat sinks.

This is because the colour of the heat sink matters less and less the more air you move over it. If the sink's hanging in vacuum (like the heat radiators on spacecraft that stop their own waste heat from boiling them) then it must be matte black; if it's sitting on earth being cooled by convection then it should be matte black; if it's got a bunch of forced air cooling from an attached fan* then it doesn't matter a great deal what colour it is.

Again, all things being equal, a shiny aluminium heat sink with a fan on it won't work quite as well as a black one - but the difference will be small enough that the extra marketability of the shiny heat sink is likely to be the deciding factor.

A shiny fan-cooled copper heat sink, which can't easily be made black without pointless insulative paint, will work better than an aluminium one with the same dimensions, thanks to copper's rather higher thermal conductivity.

* Replace "an attached fan" with "driving at speed" for our purposes.

Edited by Oosh
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89984-painting-fmic/#findComment-1624124
Share on other sites

I used an etching primer.  Very light coat of each. Very light.

I'd say it probably makes SFA difference either way unless you put too much paint on.

i agree. i painted mine black with engine enamel out of a can, and noticed nothing, apart from newfound stealth :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89984-painting-fmic/#findComment-1624272
Share on other sites

aslong as it is a thin paint your fine, if its a thick paint it will stop air from flowing through it.

so i'd water down the paint myself or alternatively

get black mesh and put that across infront of the FMIC, just makes it harder to see and u still get maximum reflection which means less FMIC heat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89984-painting-fmic/#findComment-1624799
Share on other sites

Anything infront obviously is gonna create a airflow restriction.

If you really want the extra cooling or advantage for heat dissipation, go one size bigger in your cooler, go water spray with some form of metho/water mixture, lol weld some maddog heat fins around your cooler.

Ive always wondered if you covered your intercooler in those cpu cooling block things, you know one side is cold and the other goes hot, runs on power somehow. Wonder how that would fare?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89984-painting-fmic/#findComment-1624971
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t taken them out of the cases yet    inside the box is this packaging which is pretty much like a massive blister pack 
    • Purchased a NC MX5 a while ago Basic suspension mods done, BC coils and Whiteline sway bars  New DBA calipers, discs and pads Added some 17 x 8 Konig Decagrams with 215/45 17 PS5's Added some typical NA bolt on's, i.e. full exhaust and intake  Added 0.5ltrs with a MZR2.5 swap, nice bump in torques  Found a detachable hard top which is locked in for a colour match with my local paint shop in Feb 25, this also includes some PDR as it has received a few love taps from parking in the local shops when in the hands of my Minister for War and Finances, me, I park nowhere near other cars and typically park on the street The little thing is awesome, I drive it everywhere, it handles like a dream whether I'm up it or just cruising  But now,  because I'm a idiot, I keep looking at turbo kits....... did I mention I'm a idiot Why is dose so appealing  All of the NA 2.5 glory, well.......until sometime in 2025 anyway....🤪  
    • I would not be surprised if you are the only person on earth that has the interest/desire to do that lol.  The Haltech base map is a really good starting point, the car will fire easily and drive very well, even on mild boost levels. To me, following your advice sounds like some sort of ancient Chinese water torcher lol (this is not an insult Josh, never change <3)
    • Those car show concepts from the 2000's and 2010's like the Floria and IDx were brilliant and should've gone ahead, at least one of them. But neither Honda nor Nissan are thinking about affordable performance any more, which is truly sad.  Even if Toyota's liquid hydrogen ICE development reaches the point where it's commercially viable and the infrastructure to support it, Honda/Nissan would have to wait until Toyota allow fee access to their patents to offer it with any smaller performance models they released to take advantage of it.  
    • A sporty manual RWD coupe with a IL4 Honda engine would only be a good thing I assume we won't see anything released for a few years though, unless informal talks and designs have been going on for a few years,  and due to the current, and future, emmisions and safety requirements, I assume anything "sporty" they would do would be at least some hybrid thingie And hopefully anything they are thinking of has nice lines, without lots of plastic and fake bits hanging off it like that horrendous FK8 that looked like it was designed by a 13 year old The other issue of course in the current market is cost, currently the type R is around $70k, a twin is around $50k Meh, I'm old and grumpy and would rather buy a older model car and waste my coin on that than buying anything currently available new  
×
×
  • Create New...