Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an rb30det for sale i got it with a vl i brought which im currently doing a spray job on, anyway im not sure what head it is it is either a 20 or a 25de head but with out measuring the valves i can't know for sure, as this thing is put together and i have never even pulled it down, it just looks so good together plus i have never had the time and interest in it.

So their for i have no idea what is in it: what rods or pistions or even if the head is suited to the block as i understand it takes a bit of machining to make a 20 or 25det head to fit (it is definently not a 25det head no vvt) i would like an offer over

$1000 but realise you would be taking a chance on it as i don't know what is in it or if the head fis at all as i said i have no interest in it what so ever. I don't know how many KM's are on the engine either.

Sorry i don't know alot about what it has in it.

So offers over $1000

Thanks Aaron

Call on 0408601054 or email me on [email protected]

It's location is North Richmond NSW

post-16956-1128513807.jpg

post-16956-1128641027.jpg

Edited by rb20siliva69
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89990-rb30det/
Share on other sites

hey there at the minute this is the only pic i have and it's an old one from when i brought it i had tidyed it up a lot more after i got it and then lost interest in it but i will endever to get a better photo of it.

How can you tell between the 25de and the 20 from the out side i throught that the oly diff was the valve size 25 de bing bigger and the port size other than that they look identical.

Oh and yes bare motor except exhaust mainfold and the bottom half of the inlet which has a shit attempt at being polished other than that it's a long motor.

Thanks Aaron

Edited by rb20siliva69
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89990-rb30det/#findComment-1623928
Share on other sites

ouch, that timing belt looks awfully close to hitting, thats a ticking time bomb if u ask me!

Listen Mate no one asked you anything. and have you everlooked at a 26 with the covers off, it's basicly the same set up so wake up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89990-rb30det/#findComment-1626416
Share on other sites

hey there at the minute this is the only pic i have and it's an old one from when i brought it i had tidyed it up a lot more after i got it and then lost interest in it but i will endever to get a better photo of it.

How can you tell between the 25de and the 20 from the out side i throught that the oly diff was the valve size 25 de bing bigger and the port size other than that they look identical.

Oh and yes bare motor except exhaust mainfold and the bottom half of the inlet which has a shit attempt at being polished other than that it's a long motor.

Thanks Aaron

sorry my bad. i could only see from the differences in the rockers covers - but anyone can swap them over, therefore i have no idea what head it is. ps. the rocker covers are rb25de, dont know if this will relate to what head is there or not..

good luck with the sale - 600hp roller and yopu have yourself a 300RWKW+ machine right there.

re: timing belt close to hitting - good one d1ck h3ad. that looks very normal to me

shaun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89990-rb30det/#findComment-1630706
Share on other sites

Hey there guys i don't know if it has ever run and know idea how many km's are on it and i would like to know what head it is aswell.

If anyone is willing to make an offer we may be able to work out a better price i just want to get rid of the bloody thing. Thake up to much room in my small shed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89990-rb30det/#findComment-1632067
Share on other sites

sorry my bad.  i could only see from the differences in the rockers covers - but anyone can swap them over, therefore i have no idea what head it is. ps. the rocker covers are rb25de, dont know if this will relate to what head is there or not..

good luck with the sale - 600hp roller and yopu have yourself a 300RWKW+ machine right there.

re: timing belt close to hitting - good one d1ck h3ad. that looks very normal to me

shaun

mmmmm, good to see you've looked at plenty of engines and read the rb30 guide!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89990-rb30det/#findComment-1632630
Share on other sites

im no expert but the way the top 2 intake pipes are slightly closer to the engine looks like an a rb20 (thast assuming the plenum and intake of the rb25de is same as the rb25det). if so the previous guy would have spent a lot of time and money getting a rb20 to fit on a rb30!

anywyas dude looks sweet, gluck with the sale

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89990-rb30det/#findComment-1632841
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Hi Aaron,

I have sent you an e-mail i will have this if it is still for sale. I am in the UK. My post code is NN4 9YQ please can you work out shipping costs.

My email is [email protected] please either send me a message here or send me an email.

Please also confirm to me the payment method.

Thanks John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89990-rb30det/#findComment-2469503
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...