Jump to content
SAU Community

Toyota Supra


Munna
 Share

Recommended Posts

I know the twin turbo 3ltr sequential twin turbo supra has a lot of potential. But I was just wondering if anyone knows what rwkw are achievable with the following mods

- After market cooler

- Power FC or equivalent

- full exhaust system from turbos back.

- boost increase with stock turbos

From reading these forums and from personal experience these mods on a RB25 with 10-12psi of boost ~200rwkw seems to achievable. I know the supra will make a lot more power than this but how much more?

Edited by Munna
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well.. when we were at the dyno day with OCAU a supra running pretty much the same setup except it was running a SAFC2 and a boost controller I believe.. he reeled off about 240kw..

Thanks thats about what I would have expected anyone else? What 1/4 mile times would a supra with these mods and a good suspention setup get?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My brother has a '95 Supra RZ with those mods, plus a Trust pod filter, Bosch 044, AVCR and a Malpassi fuel pressure regulator and is making 272rwkw at 14psi. He could be making a little bit more, but needs a new dump pipe.

"They taste like burning!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The dump isn't stock; it's a 3 inch dump. But he was told that a 3" dump was too large for the stock turbos on a Supra as the wastegate can't control the boost properly (needs the back pressure). So he's had a restricter put into the dump until he gets a new one.

"They taste like burning!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got a friend who got there 1996 TT (6spd) Supra dynoed with the following setup:

1. Aftermarket Front Mount Intercooler

2. Stock Air box/Turbos/Boost setting 10psi or there abouts

3. Catback- OR turbo back exhaust (unsure)

4. 18" rims.

result:

214rwkw at unigroup.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2JZ-GTE into an R33 is stupidity in my opinion. 2JZ with the 6 speed costs an absolute fortune, and an RB26 can make similar power. If you really want the BIG CUBE straight six, you could probably build a killer RB30DETT for less than a 2JZ engine swap. The cost of installing a 2JZ would be phenomenal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Keep a Supra engine in a supra, and an RB in a Skyline..

If you want extra power in a Gts-t.. go and buy an R32 GT-R than you'll even it up.. what a skyline lacks sometimes in raw power, it makes up for round the corners.. ATTESSA.. and a couple of other areas..

Personally I would love a Supra TT - but for 40k i'd be hard pressed to not buy a R33 GT-R..

They are definately quite a nice car.. I love the look of them.. so sleek.. with a set of rims, lowered with no wing.. droooolling..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone I know that the supra is quicker over the 1/4 than the r33 gtst from the factory.

How would a R33 GTS-T fare against a the supra both in street trim at this level of modification assuming they both have a decent suspention/tyre setup. Keeping in mind the supra weighs 200kg's more.

I know that the skyline is capable of high 12's what can the supra do?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Little more work!  Did some body work on the rear wheel arches and since the paint was a cheap spray job before figured I’d do something to tide me over until I wrap the car.    Colour might not be everyone’s choice but I like it and it’s only temporary, just hate having primer from the wheel arches standing out.    Keeping an eye out for a decent set of wheels to throw on now. Wheels and tires on the car are junk
    • Its likely to be 70% road 30% track usage, track usage will increase if anything. Decided not to fit it as I cant be arsed changing the bushes on my LCAs again 🤣 I did get the below back from GKTech though so they should work together     The anti-squat kit and roll center adjusters work independently since they change the rear lower control arm's angle in different ways. The anti-squat kit adjusts the angle from front to back, which impacts anti-squat values. Roll center adjusters change the angle side to side, mainly to correct geometry on cars that are significantly lowered. They might affect each other a tiny bit, but overall, you can think of them as separate.
    • What are you doing with the car? street car or race car? People get hung up on the squat of the s/r chassis rears. There is positives to the squat if a car is setup and driven correctly for it (correct ride height, spring rate, alignment, damper valving). Generally just lengthen the rear traction arm by 5-10mm and that will help the squat and bump steer too. You are also correct with the roll centre too. This too also needs to be adjustable if you start messing with suspension geometry.   Having done quiet a bit of testing on race cars this year in regards to rear squat, I've seen some big positives from it in regards to drive off corners and traction. 
    • I find I am using the MX5 for everything except long overnight cruises with Jackie, or, if picking up the kids to go somewhere, the SS has so much more room inside, and is much more comfortable if your going to be doing Hwy driving for 6-8 hours And the MX5 isn't bad in stop go traffic for a manual transmission car, whilst the clutch kit has been upgraded from stock, it is still light, and also not having a stupidly light flywheel in it helps as well, I've spent alot of time sitting on the M5, M4 and M7 stuck in traffic when plodding around the Greater Sydney Region in it Another benefit is MX5's are not really a car that gets stolen, you can pretty much park it anywhere, and it will still be there when you return
    • I can totally get why you like it for that sort of commute. I was thinking BoganDore because it's such a lazy drive, for things like stop start traffic.   I used to do over an hour in stop start shit from one side of Bris to the next, twice a day. My choice of car was larger displacement, with an auto. Basically for torque in low rpm/very low speed, and no clutch pedal. But loved a fun manual for the weekends, which the partner has (plus had the LandCruiser too for other fun drives). I now have an EV as a work car, and I tell ya what, ultimate daily driver, especially if youre out of energy, like I often am after work. I don't even need to touch the brake pedal   That said, I'm presently rebuilding the Liberty GTB to get it setup for weekend drives and track abuse! So small high revving turbo engine with 6 speed cog swapper!   But for your style of commute, I'd probably take the MX5 too!   For those choices, I'm ignoring fuel economy. Because I know how atrocious V8 daily life is for fuel from when I used to daily a manual SS, ha ha. Hence why I know I love the daily rumble of a V8
×
×
  • Create New...