Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Let me know when you are going down and I'll see if I can meet you there to see how your car goes

Yeah ok mate it'll prolly be this coming week after Australia Day, and prolly towards the end of the week :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9010-dyno-prices/page/3/#findComment-136879
Share on other sites

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

JiMiH,

Please dont worry about price too much. I think the most important thing is to go to someone who can get results, I found out the hard way (even though this particular tuner had a good rep), that you get what you pay for.

The joy at a low price will soon go away when your car performs like shit, plus there is the added cost that may be associated with a poor tune etc.

I am only saying this after having forked out for a tune - I didn't ask for a cheap price but he quoted me one. I think things were taking a bit longer than he anticipated and ended up cutting the dyno short with the result of a car that didnt idle too well, ran rich low in the range and lean up top so I had poor fuel economy and detonation up high - wasnt nice. Now that I have had a decent tune the car runs like a million bucks, and it doesnt bother me a bit having to pay an additional $350 to get the result.

Listen to guys that have had good results and then go and get the work done. Pay whatever they ask and dont bitch about price 'cause experience and a quality job are bloody priceless.

Just my 0.02

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9010-dyno-prices/page/3/#findComment-138270
Share on other sites

Hugs and kisses all round.

JiMiH, as Steve discovered, he used to be a Perth boy, there is alot of difference between tuners, and price does not tell a good one from a bad one. If you find a good one that is $20 per hour more, then there are still worth a heap more than paying a dickhead to tune your car. I always stick around while they are doing the tuning, it doesn't take much to work out if they know what they are doing.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9010-dyno-prices/page/3/#findComment-138725
Share on other sites

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Adrian,

SST is in Radium St in Welshpool, he dose dyno tuning/testing, but also builds race cars etc. Grant Borjornac is next door (Per4manz Tubochargers) and he does Intercoolers/Turbo's etc.

So if you go and see Steve then he will be able to point you to the right people.

See'ya

:burnout:

You mean point you to the people who he wants to point you to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9010-dyno-prices/page/3/#findComment-139141
Share on other sites

RB20LagWagon,

It would be stupid of anyone, including myself, to point people to the wrong people, it will only end up giving you a bad name. I send people to businesses that I have dealt with personally and whom I know will also point them to people who will perform a very good job.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9010-dyno-prices/page/3/#findComment-139290
Share on other sites

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

I understand where your coming from, but when the other tuning shops don't know what to do with a car they send it to Barrie, everyone knows he is the best, it's just that you have to deal with all the other crap. He works by himself, and doesn't answer phones etc, so if you want it done in a hurry then your better off elsewhere, if you need something fixed which no-one else can do then he's your man.

Theres more than just barry around who know what to do, its just a matter of dealing with the people you feel are telling you the truth..

My recomendations for what you want, go and see the following

Race torque

tim slako

speedworks

BRE

C-red/lumpy

Avoid

######

######

######

the 3 avoid's are there because anytime you hear from them the bullshit-o-meter goes straight into redline..

Mod note: Please pm XRW for names of company.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9010-dyno-prices/page/3/#findComment-140195
Share on other sites

I have to say XRW,

that just about every tuner I've encountered has some fictional beliefs.

Tim Slako is one you can add to the bottom list. Then again he does do fantastic work 90% of the time, and is worth a visit. Like all the guys you put in the 'Avoid' list.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9010-dyno-prices/page/3/#findComment-140231
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Adrian_perth

so whats wrong with SST?

i been told it's quite a good place was actually planing to go there soon until XRW posted?

where is speedworx situated?

adrian :)

I could list a ton of reasons why i feel it should be avoided, but basically, its a matter of who you feel is telling the truth, and who isn't, and what gear there going to be using to do the job on your car, and what gear they recomend you to buy for how much you want to spend..

or if you go in there asking for something you know is a quality product to be told its a hunk of shit and to buy something else..

ive never used any of the workshops listed, aside from speedworks, and another i didn't list maximum motorsport, because i do 99% of the work on my car, myself as there is so few people out there that i personally trust, and if i did have to it would only be race torque or speedworks, yes it costs more, however as with the computer industry, you pay more, you get a better product..

and yes granted nearly everyone will tell a porkie pie, its just a matter of how big, eg a Uni Chip is not a superior product over a motec, as someone once told me when they where putting my car onto a dyno..

he didn't take to kindly to me informing them he mustn't know how to tune a motec after he goes 'nah there shit mate'

speedwork are in ossie park http://www.speedworks.com.au

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9010-dyno-prices/page/3/#findComment-140257
Share on other sites

XRW,

Wow you do all the work yourself, then that must make you an expert, we should all listen to you. If you haven't even tired them then I don't think your in much of a position to comment. Besides owning a WRX and TX3 there isn't any need to go to a performance workshop.

*end bitch*

As rev said, all tuners have there own beliefs which they think are true, some may be right others wrong, but you still need to make a decision about who to go with.

I'd suggest you listen to people who have actually been there, and not a backyard expert.

Didn't speedworks build an R34 GTR with a $100K Jun engine that blew up on it's first run at the plex?

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9010-dyno-prices/page/3/#findComment-140529
Share on other sites

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

XRW,

Wow you do all the work yourself, then that must make you an expert, we should all listen to you. If you haven't even tired them then I don't think your in much of a position to comment. Besides owning a WRX and TX3 there isn't any need to go to a performance workshop.

*end bitch*

I don't wish to try them, as ive seen the results of some of there work, and given your reply ill just asume you have absolutely no idea..

i never once claimed to be an expert, however, i certainly know im clued in a lot more than a large portion of general car enthusiast who come to these forums to ask advice, and i don't mind sharing my knowledge with them..

as for my selection of cars, big deal, you chose a gts-t youd think theres no need to modify one of them either would you, horses for courses..

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

As rev said, all tuners have there own beliefs which they think are true, some may be right others wrong, but you still need to make a decision about who to go with.

I'd suggest you listen to people who have actually been there, and not a backyard expert.  

Didn't speedworks build an R34 GTR with a $100K Jun engine that blew up on it's first run at the plex?

See'ya:burnout:

No actually..

The r34 was together for several months and made several trips to the track, infact i drove it one night, and made an 11.2 pass, and then backed it up with an 11.13, that makes it the fastest GT-R in west aus, the fastest skyline, and the fastest 4wd, and inside the top ten in australia(someone correct me if im wrong), a week later it made 590 hp at PAS and took out the dyno comp over all.

the motor DID NOT cost 100 grand, the bottom end stroker kit, can be bought for 17k, RRP, thats crank, pistons and rods, the engine failure it has had is due to poor quality machining, of which is being repaired at no cost to the owner, and the cause being chased up with the machinist who did the work..

id sugest you actually research some more before listening to hear say, which given your comments i would have a guess came from the company your supporting so happily..

No im not an employee at speedworks, however i help out there a lot, im not an expert but i sure as hell know what im on about, so when i give advice, it truthful and hounest comment..

As i said earlier, i tell people to go to workshops based on what people tell me they have experience, what they thought of the service and products they got, and if they feel they got what they wanted, or they got a load of lies and nothing like they expected..

ps, ive been there and done it more times than you could imagine..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9010-dyno-prices/page/3/#findComment-140551
Share on other sites

Your sharing of knowledge was to sledge companies that you have never had experience with and promote ones that you know, I do not see that as being helpful to those people with less knowledge than you.

You are cetainly entitled to you opinion but please try and keep it to something you have had knowledge with, not just your feelings.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9010-dyno-prices/page/3/#findComment-140554
Share on other sites

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Your sharing of knowledge was to sledge companies that you have never had experience with and promote ones that you know, I do not see that as being helpful to those people with less knowledge than you.

You are cetainly entitled to you opinion but please try and keep it to something you have had knowledge with, not just your feelings.

As i keep saying, i have seen the results fo work performed by these companies, had friends deal with these companies, or spoken to these companies..

Now, if you can't understand that someone else sharing this information might save someone, money, time or for example a motor, then really you need to sit down and have a think about it, because if i was asking for peoples hounest opinion id want them, not someone bagging out others for sharing that opinion..

its called free speech, its my personal opinion, i have no financial interest in any of the companies i mentioned that he should go see, im not employed by anyone, so this comes from my personal thoughts, experiences, and what ive seen and what people who have been customers have told me..

if i wanted to sledge them i could, but i won't, im just giving my opinion of who i would go see, and who i wouldn't if i was to spend my hard earned on some work

thats not sledging, sledging would be adding names to my story of ECU choice earlier..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9010-dyno-prices/page/3/#findComment-140556
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
×
×
  • Create New...