Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I decided to buy this model, Legalis R because its soo quite...

So i hoped!!....AND IT IS!! Its like, driving a std car with a little tiny tiny burble!! Infact, often engine/road noise out does the exhaust.

I cant feel much of a difference, thats probably coz i havnt installed the cat just yet, but mmm so happy

Link to Fuji website about my exhaust... http://translate.google.com/translate?u=ht...Flanguage_tools

ex17cs.jpg

ex27le.jpg

ex35zf.jpg

ex45qj.jpg

ex57jg.jpg

Cant wait to put the cat and split dump in, will be fun :P

BTW, anyone wondering, i got it for 1100 airmail deliverd...

Edited by AlexCim
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90146-got-my-new-fujitsubo-exhaust/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

NOOO should have got the power getter so i could see some pics installed.. damm u.. ahhaahh..

So you cant even hear the exhaust at all?? not even a tiny bit??

Is that the way you always wanted??

Edited by siddr20

Written at the bottom, 1100 air mail

I couldnt get the power getter for E-WGNC34, only this or the regaris. I didnt want the regaris as it was 94dB at 4800, this is 84dB

(to me, that is crazy low)

Plus, i am trying to keep the sleeper look/feel about the car, so this suits me perfect :P

Previous to this, i had a custom made catback with xforce muffler. For me(quite lover) it was quite loud, and the single cabin doesnt help when it comes to cruising at 2,000 at 80 for several KM's so yeh, quite is what i wanted.

Anyone that wants a cheap catback for a Stag, i want to sell this one

It cost me 590 to make, so make me an offer for it..

catback14ua.jpg

Edited by AlexCim

Wow, that exhaust looks almost identical to my one, but mine isn't as shiny anymore. maybe i've got one of those too. i can't hear the exhaust at all really unless i'm behind the car loading the boot.

looks really good though, congrats

Wow, that exhaust looks almost identical to my one, but mine isn't as shiny anymore. maybe i've got one of those too. i can't hear the exhaust at all really unless i'm behind the car loading the boot.

looks really good though, congrats

Have a look under your muffler and see if it says FGK, if so, chances are you have the same exhaust

When i said i cant really hear it at all, i am not just trying about idle, i am talking about the whole rev range. At ~2000 you can hear a tiny tiny rumble, i think thats where it resonates most... apart from that, engine/road noise is the go with loudness

Cat goes in today! Ill post photos when im done

And here is the cat!

its a BOS importing stainless steel inside cat

The power difference for this exhaust over standard isnt HUGE, but its noticable. Its because i chose quite over powerful...

The boost is much stronger now, so is induction noise and also its spools really hard during hard gear changes. Power is a lot smoother too

Cant wait for the PFC and turbo upgrade... oh and the manual conversion :)

cat18ab.jpg

cat27hx.jpg

Oh, and to anyone wondering, the car sits 12cm off the ground at the lowest point, this is the bit just under the rear sway bar.

My car also sits at 405mm and 380mm F/R centre wheel to gaurd... soo i wont lower it much because then ill be illegal, so drop it only another ... 1.6cm (0.8cm adjustments when i get the shocks)

Yep

When i met up with Burns and he was complaining about the car being too low and hitting things, i thought, how could that be because the car looked PERFECT at the height it sits

What getting this aftermarket exhaust as taught me is that no one that will get a aftermarket exhaust can expect to sit too high off the ground. I wanted to drop the car to about 350-360mm, but now, i wont take it below ~370 because otherwise it will be

a) illegal

B) impractical (i still carry heaps of stuff too)

But still, i just the height of 370. Ill just fill it with some GTR wheels when i get around to it and it will be all sweet. I think PranK has std suspension and his GTR rims fill the gaurds perfectly.

On the Fuji website, it says that the exhaust causes the std car to drop to 13cm off the ground. Given sag/age, i think 12cm sounds about right

I know this is an exhaust thread, but ground clearance and ride height are important considerations when choosing an exhaust. So there is a mixture of exhaust and ride height dimensions that might come in handy following.

Before we get into it I should mention that I have raised mine 8mm (using the next up circlip groove) since the pictures where taken. It now sits at 345 mm centre of wheel to guard at the rear (350 mm at the front) and at that height the STANDARD exhaust is exactly 100 mm from the ground. That's measured under the rear stabiliser bar same as Alex's. At that height it just clears the local speed bumps that I usually use to check clearances.

Note that the front 350 mm and rear 345 mm gives a 10 mm rake (nose down) when measured at the sills. At 405/380 Alex's is sitting around 10 mm nose up, which is what mine was like when I got it. The 10 mm nose down makes a big difference to how it looks, much more agressive stance, so to speak. For the guys getting the Whiteline/Bilstein Group Buy kit that is 1 circlip groove up from standard, both front and rear.

The standard exhaust is ~2.5" (62 mm) OD, so a 3.25" (83 mm OD) exhaust is going to be 20 m closer to the ground. Even a 3" (75mm) exhaust is going to be 13 mm lower. I can't raise the exhaust up any higher than standard because it will hit the stabiliser bar. So I might have to go up another 8 mm in the spring height to give similar ground clearance to what I have now.

That will leave the front at 358 mm and rear at 353 mm (still with a 10 mm rake, nose down) which is 47/27 lower than where Alex's is at the moment.

:D Cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

Ill keep this thread updated when its my time to buy the suspension package too, my goal is to keep it perfectly legal...

Ill also update when i install the split dump/front in one, but i doubt that will sit any lower really..

Edited by AlexCim
Have a look under your muffler and see if it says FGK, if so, chances are you have the same exhaust

When i said i cant really hear it at all, i am not just trying about idle, i am talking about the whole rev range. At ~2000 you can hear a tiny tiny rumble, i think thats where it resonates most... apart from that, engine/road noise is the go with loudness

Cat goes in today! Ill post photos when im done

Turns out i do have the same exhaust as you, but only form Cat back. i'll have to get the autosol onto it to get it looking like yours though, mine has been on there at least 2 years

I was the original stagea trialer for the SS split dump/front pipe

There was some problems with the angles of the pipe which are getting sorted now. Also, the o2 hit the exhaust manifold

I am just waiting on my revised pipe to arrive and then ill give it a go installing it again (was a bitch of a job the first time around .. but now i know what to do/how)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
    • The ones in brackets are the first stages of tightening. I usually aim for the middle of the range. They give a range because it's actually not that critical to hit exactly the right bolt tension. Enough is enough, and too much is too much, and the range given is inside that range. Half of the bolts in the suspension are problematic for putting a torque wrench on anyway, so just get done up to mechanic tight  and spanner checked a week later.
×
×
  • Create New...