Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Just a quick question for those nissan know it all's. My brother has recently picked up a set of 300ZX brakes for his 180SX, which is a fairly common conversion. In the process we have noted that the alloy calipers off the 300ZX's (not sure what years because at one point they revert to iron calipers). are the same as mine on the R32.

Now those of us who drive R32 GTSt's will testify to them stopping pretty decently. So im wondering are the rotors indeed the same size and specification as the 300ZX?

If so, R32's have the benefit of having a set of brakes designed for a car 150kg's or so heavier.

Anyone know otherwise?

Red17

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9023-brakes/
Share on other sites

Were aware of the stud issues with the 180SX/S13. You basically weld up the holes and redrill the discs with 4x114.3 stud pattern, no biggy.

Its a common cheap brake upgrade. So common in fact that the prices for 300ZX front brakes have gone pretty high over the past couple of years as demand has risen. Some people are charging as high as $950 for calipers alone!

Red17

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9023-brakes/#findComment-135443
Share on other sites

A better way of doing the 5 stud conversion is to use the forged aluminium hub from the 300ZX on the rear, this alone saves 3kg in unsprung weight.

This way when you install the considerably larger disc and caliper the total increase in unsprung weight is less than 1kg. There are a few little tweaks required, like removal of dust shield, fiddle with park brake cable, change to 300ZX brake line, with most major being the need to use a 300zx rear shock, (or you can use the zed brakes with the S13 steel upright adds 3kg of weight to each rear wheel)

For the front use the S14 spindle. Again you will need to also change to the larger S14 lower ball joint and larger strut mounting bolt.

There is a little more agro involved in doing it this way, and i suppose expense, but the idea of welding parts that heave been heat treated (brakes) which also operate at high temps isnt very nice.

Also pays to remember that bigger brakes = addded weight, increase in unsprung weight reduces shock/spring control.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9023-brakes/#findComment-135496
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
×
×
  • Create New...