Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Excelleant, good info, how old is " the older soundstreams"?  Is my 6 year old one old or new?

:D cheers: )

If the amp is blue, then it's "older" :) The newer ones are all sorts of colours and for the most part have cast critters on them like spiders or what have you.

The older blue ones were incredibly over-engineered, I have a Reference 300 two channel unit "officially" rated at 37.5W per channel ... but can be bridged to 1/2 Ohm at about 300W:)

The reason the new ones aren't as good? The company went bust and I don't think the new owner of the name doesn't make them in the USA any more.

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If the amp is blue, then it's "older" :D  The newer ones are all sorts of colours and for the most part have cast critters on them like spiders or what have you.

The older blue ones were incredibly over-engineered, I have a Reference 300 two channel unit "officially" rated at 37.5W per channel ... but can be bridged to 1/2 Ohm at about 300W:)

The reason the new ones aren't as good?  The company went bust and I don't think the new owner of the name doesn't make them in the USA any more.

Oh goody, mine is a blue one. Thanks for the background.

:) cheers :)

Oh goody, mine is a blue one.  Thanks for the background.

;) cheers :)

Hey SK, I thought you were a 'colour conscious' sought of guy - but a blue amp and 'peach' wiring on the SITC. A bit of a colour clash.

By the way 'off topic' received my SITC from ALEXCRIM today.

Marc2

  • 11 months later...

a sub will NOT fit under the drivers seat mate. NO WAY.

Ive got my amp under the passenger seat, all fine. Just have to block up the stock vent in there with some tape over it.

Easy to run wires too as the carpets already got a hole in it for the vent.

Only issue i dont like is that rear passengers feet can hit the amp, but I always warn people anyway.

yes i meant amp not sub under the seat

what I am really hoping for is some inspiration for a design for my boot that will give me max space but also good performance

any pictures of how people have set up their system would be muchly appreciated

thanks in advance

glenn

I'll get you some pics :P

I have a double sub box with two amps attached to the backs of the seats. works really well.

I also have an Alpine Media Centre D300E

Actually Glen, noticed you are SOR... You can see it in the flesh if you like, I"m kid free from 8am this morning lol to Sunday arvo..

my sub is at the back left hand corner of the Stagea, sits nicely between the rear of the wheel-well and the wagon door, strapped down, with the amp bolted to the back.

will post a picture for you when possible.

This is the sub box and the amps are just behind onthe backs of the seats. One amp is bolted on the 2 seater, and the other sits freely behind the other.

post-30699-1160612662.jpg

I'm going to get them attached to the back of the box at a later date.

The cargo barrier is upside down and is off a Falcon.

It isn't permanently bolted down as you can see, I have clips for easy lifting and its hinged... if I need to get to the space saver spare wheel.

The only reason I have the cargo barrier is to keep the dogs in the back without destroying the subs :laugh:

I will take more pics after work.

:O

Kylie

The cargo barrier is upside down and is off a Falcon.

It isn't permanently bolted down as you can see, I have clips for easy lifting and its hinged... if I need to get to the space saver spare wheel.

The only reason I have the cargo barrier is to keep the dogs in the back without destroying the subs :laugh:

Awesome .. can you get some close up of the barrier & how you botled it down. I'm def interested in getting one so l can take my dogs with me, and not have them climb over my new seat covers.

They are nice sounding subs, those DVC kenwoods, stageagirl... Best you can get for $250.

I had keyed my stereo in the "whats the damage" thread, but here we go -

Head unit - SONY CDX-GT700.

Streetwires RCAs and 0GA power and earth, 12GA speaker cables

2x Aepro 1-farad capacitors (PS54S...?)

4x Pioneer GM7200M 800W (25WRMS) monoblock amps

2x Pioneer 300C 1000W (400WRMS) subs

1x Pioneer GM 600F Four channel amp

Focal 165CA1 2 ways in rear doors

Focal (lost the box - no idea on code) Splits in front doors.

Pretty beefy system that pumps out good SPL, but is also a very nice, crisp, clear sound. Very punchy, even from a distance.

Currently i have:

Panasonic CQ7401 headunit

DLS reference MS6 fronts

Kicker S10L7 10" sub

a fusion fp1404 powering the fronts

and a pioneer GM-D510 M powering the sub.

Havent actually installed the DLS speakers yet as i just bought them.

Pics for interest.

8.jpg

SP_A0345.jpg

Some focal 165A1s that i used to have and also some JBL power 6.5s

Didnt like the focals at all and the jbls were okay.

6.jpg

I don't know what else I have.. there are tweeters in the doors with some other speakers and I have two huge amps..

Fuzzy I'll get some pics for you soon. Its a bit dark but I'll see how good the flash works on the camera.

My g'fs other half fitted the barrier for me so if it looks rough... lol

tweeters

post-30699-1160652177.jpg

Should of started a new topic.. sorry all.

This is the plate for the barrier.. there probably are others that fit, but this one does... upside down lol

post-30699-1160651731.jpg

Next is the base attached like so...

post-30699-1160651822.jpg

And this is how its attached at the top. We cut into the handthingy to use the bolt. I also think a stronger bolt was used too.

post-30699-1160651890.jpg

Excuse the dirt. I bought the barrier second hand for $150 in Kalgoorlie and I haven't removed it to clean and paint it YET!

I just bought a new head unit today, never heard of the brand before but it plays mp3, dvd, all the stuff it needs to has a 3.5" screen and is a single din.

Nothing really wrong with my head unit now except for the fact it wont play my cd's have to use the stacker all the time.

i have two 12" fusion powerplant subs in my stagea running a jaycar monoblock amp.

they are set up similar to how kylie has hers, and they pump out 136.8 dB... way too loud for me to listen to comfortably

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there it is trickier. Ecutek seems to be one of those closed ecosystems where everyone password protects their tunes which means I either choose a tuner and can't change from them and can't make any changes myself for any reason, or I have to buy the tuning software (about $4k) and then get someone to tune from scratch (which is not simple with all the multi dimensional tables these days). Once you buy about 300 "flash points" per ECU you can get it tuned and add their "RaceROM" function which hacks extra functionality like launch control onto the ECU, and also makes extra data available for logging over CAN Not sure what I'll do there yet; I'm tempted to use one of the overseas shops that does billions of remote tunes of the platform instead of starting from scratch locally, a lot can be done online these days.
    • Can I log IAT eh? Well, can now So next thing was looking at data logging. Not straight forward because none of the motorsport displays have cracked the nissan/inifinti CAN and ECU based displays don't do g logging, lap timing, predictive laps etc.  So, I bought an Ecutek dongle from Tunehouse (Oz distributor). Even without a tune onboard that allows display and logging of about 50 parameters via Android (and presumably iOS) app. Approx 600 for the bluetooth + Usb version That gives me (pretty ugly but) functional dash display on Android And logging of these parameters I'll play around a bit over the break, but at least now I can make sure I have oil pressure when I get to some track testing.  
    • I don't know what globes/headlight connector they run, but I'd be looking for a female adapter to plug into the existing headlight on one side. Something like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256017245989 Then I'd use a pair of single input, double output relays (one for low, one for high), mount them in a spare space in the fuse box if you want to to look more original (and be easier to maintain). Then 2 new power sources from the main stud in the fuse box via a fuse to each relay. Low from the headlight adapter pin triggers low relay and high from the high headlight adapter pin triggers high and low. Earth the relays and new headlight sockets and off you go. Because it triggers off the original headlight all of the dipping/hi on/high flash all still works
×
×
  • Create New...