Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

137.7dB, last time it was tested. Cost me a sub, though... Running two 800W monoblocks per sub now. The subs (306Cs) are good for 400W RMS, and the monoblocks are about 250W RMS each, so i have them set at about half gain, sounds nice cos they arent pushing any limits, but can really crank at the local car show.

Looking at either getting another pair of 306s, (to run a full set of four subs, four monoblocks) or just replace the two 306s with a pair of tsw-3000SPL (pioneer 3000W) subs, and do the box and install properly.

post-24895-1160987103.jpg

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Did both of these installs myself

Stagea -

Hertz HSK165 Splits up front

Hertz HCX165 2-ways in the rear

Audison SRx4 Channel amplifier

Audison connexion wire kit

Some JVC headunit

Camry

Hertz HSK165 Splits up front

Hertz HCX690 3 way 6x9's in the rear

Audison SRx5 amplifier

Audison connexion wire kit

MOMO Polk 12" sub in a custom engineered box

Some good Kenwood head unit with USB input etc etc

Both those systems are KICK ASS, specially the Camry system. BUT, thats being sold to a mate and the cars going to someone else.

I dont want any more in the Stag, cant sacrifice the practicality of a wagon/folding rear cargo area.

  • 1 year later...

Hey guys,

I'm going to embark on installing my stereo. I have my gear sorted. Just wanting to know where you guys mounted your amps? I want to keep my boot space (hence why I'm not installing any subs) but i just don't know where to mount the amp

Any ideas??

Hey guys,

I'm going to embark on installing my stereo. I have my gear sorted. Just wanting to know where you guys mounted your amps? I want to keep my boot space (hence why I'm not installing any subs) but i just don't know where to mount the amp

Any ideas??

Mine is mounted under passengers seat, using the unused "power/heater" seat power harness. Plenty of clearance their for an amp.

Mine is mounted under passengers seat, using the unused "power/heater" seat power harness. Plenty of clearance their for an amp.

I've seen under my seat...it's got good clearance. I've got the power/heater seat power harness and its currently in use (i have the leather powered and heated seat option in mine) - I was thinking about installing the amp under the seat just afraid that rear passengers are going to kick the amp.

Also I'm going to utilize all the stock mounting holes. do I need to modify the A-pillar tweeters to install new ones??

Edited by BigDirtyJase
I've seen under my seat...it's got good clearance. I've got the power/heater seat power harness and its currently in use (i have the leather powered and heated seat option in mine) - I was thinking about installing the amp under the seat just afraid that rear passengers are going to kick the amp.

Also I'm going to utilize all the stock mounting holes. do I need to modify the A-pillar tweeters to install new ones??

just pulled out my tweeters in the front yesturday and theres not much room there for mounting aftermarket ones in. thogh i am going to cut a hole in the mesh clip in cover and glue it to that will look good when finished

just pulled out my tweeters in the front yesturday and theres not much room there for mounting aftermarket ones in. thogh i am going to cut a hole in the mesh clip in cover and glue it to that will look good when finished

mount them on the kick panel. plenty of room down there. virtually equal distance to your ears. plenty of high end installs use this location. stick them on with bluetack until you find the sweet spot aiming them in various directions.

post-5777-1201690699_thumb.jpg

How do you get the A pillar cover off to get to the tweeters?

Im afraid of breaking the plastic..

that little plastic cover just clips on there just lever it off comes off with ease. but to get the old tweeter out it's probly easyer to take of the whole a/b piller cover. takes probly 10mins per side.

if you have any more interior questions just ask as up until yesturday i had my entire interior out of the car. takes 4hrs to pull it all out and 2 days to put it back in :laughing-smiley-014:

Edited by petrolfix
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey all,

I tried to install the tweeters from my slpits in the standard tweeter pillar location and the only way I could get them to fit was to basically have the magnet of the tweeter attach itself to the boddy of the car. The magnet was more than strong enough to support itself. It JUST fit with the standard perforated cover back on.

Is this going to effect the sound quality of the tweeter? or over time destroy the tweeter?

I took it out just in case I would be damaging my speakers.

Thanks

Dave

I put a bit of Blue-Tac behind mine, which is also a good insulator against the tweeter reverberating against the A-pillar.

Blue-Tac is often recommended as a good insulator when you put a few blobs under each corner of your home stereo's bookshelf speakers too.

what brand tweeters are you using? I have Pioneer ones, and I didn't put them in any case, just left them 'naked' and used the mounts for the old tweeters. there was plenty of room for them to move around, and I didn't have to remove the A-Pillar cover either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there it is trickier. Ecutek seems to be one of those closed ecosystems where everyone password protects their tunes which means I either choose a tuner and can't change from them and can't make any changes myself for any reason, or I have to buy the tuning software (about $4k) and then get someone to tune from scratch (which is not simple with all the multi dimensional tables these days). Once you buy about 300 "flash points" per ECU you can get it tuned and add their "RaceROM" function which hacks extra functionality like launch control onto the ECU, and also makes extra data available for logging over CAN Not sure what I'll do there yet; I'm tempted to use one of the overseas shops that does billions of remote tunes of the platform instead of starting from scratch locally, a lot can be done online these days.
    • Can I log IAT eh? Well, can now So next thing was looking at data logging. Not straight forward because none of the motorsport displays have cracked the nissan/inifinti CAN and ECU based displays don't do g logging, lap timing, predictive laps etc.  So, I bought an Ecutek dongle from Tunehouse (Oz distributor). Even without a tune onboard that allows display and logging of about 50 parameters via Android (and presumably iOS) app. Approx 600 for the bluetooth + Usb version That gives me (pretty ugly but) functional dash display on Android And logging of these parameters I'll play around a bit over the break, but at least now I can make sure I have oil pressure when I get to some track testing.  
    • I don't know what globes/headlight connector they run, but I'd be looking for a female adapter to plug into the existing headlight on one side. Something like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256017245989 Then I'd use a pair of single input, double output relays (one for low, one for high), mount them in a spare space in the fuse box if you want to to look more original (and be easier to maintain). Then 2 new power sources from the main stud in the fuse box via a fuse to each relay. Low from the headlight adapter pin triggers low relay and high from the high headlight adapter pin triggers high and low. Earth the relays and new headlight sockets and off you go. Because it triggers off the original headlight all of the dipping/hi on/high flash all still works
    • I reached 10 posts and wanted to make my build thread too but still can't add pictures to posts so I have no idea how it works 😂
×
×
  • Create New...