Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im pretty sure I already know the answer to this however I will ask just to make sure...

on the r33(running standard boost) when your foot is to the floor, on the standard boost gauge where should the needle show a reading to? right up to the +7 or to the line which indicates approx 5.

yours anwers would be greatly appreciated. what does it show on your cars?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9030-r33-standard-boost-reading/
Share on other sites

Mine used to go up to the 7. The boost will vary on everyones Skyline depending on mods, even exhaust and air-filter will make a difference to boost. Everyone will give you a different value for the factory boost, aslong as you have no boost leak then I wouldn't worry too much, the gauge is only an indicator of on/off boost, not an accurate reading.

See'ya:burnout:

I have a 1996 S2 GTS-T.

100% stock except mags and suspension. When I picked it up from Gold Coast I got a mechanic to look at it. Had the timing belt and water pump changed, coils cleaned, plugs changed etc. It was also put on a computer so all data could be checked. As far as I am aware it is in 100% working order.

Anyway, my car will sit just below the line that is halfway between 0 & +7 up to 4500rpm then it will sit exactly on the line. You can feel it coming on hard at this stage.

For an explanation on the gauge go to (GENERAL AUTOMOTIVE DISCUSSION > correct me if im wrong)

Just to allay any confusion, the factory boost gauge does NOT read in PSI or Bar. If you have a closer look, you'll notice that it is +/- 7 x 100mm Hg. (reading on gauge x 100mm Hg <-- Mercury).

1 lbf/square inch (PSI) = 51.71507 mm mercury (0 C)

10psi = 517.1507mm Hg or the position approximating 5 on your factory boost gauge.

In saying all of that though, the factory gauge is pretty innaccurate at best and should prob only be used as a guide. Hope this helps.

out of interest, if 1 bar = 14.503774 lbf/square inch (PSI), does having 7.251887psi mean you have 'half a bar'?

I found the perfect pressure conversion chart...it covers all pressure standards.....i.e. standard meter +7 = (about) 13.5 psi, anyway it backs up all that is said in this thread. I have a laminated copy in the car for just those times when u ask...whats that in PSI (or in this case mmHg)

You can find it at http://www.aquaticam.com/presschart.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
    • That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!
×
×
  • Create New...