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R32: Installing Rb25 Turbo

predator

By predator,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

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predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

I have placed up a full tutorial on this, from start to finish.. This question gets asked regularly, so it was about time *somebody* did it and wrote up exactly how they did it..

Due to the server here always losing my images for any period of time, I've decided to put it all on my project website..

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

Photos aren't actually up yet as I am still resizing, etc (and there are quite a few)... but for now you can read through. They will be up in a few days.

cheers,

Gordon

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90401-r32-installing-rb25-turbo/
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  • 1 year later...
eXc Mentor

eXc

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just used predator's guide yesterday and did my conversion. I just thought I'd post a few things that I have found.

Predator, feel free to use them in your guide if you agree.

1) Drop the coolant in the normal fashion before un-doing the water lines on the turbo (so drain from radiator) You are going to lose it all anyways, this way it's not as messy

2) I had to change water lines (89 GTST 4 door) and I can now tell you how you can work it out BEFORE you go to all the effort. Predator pointed out you need a 24mm socket for the water lines...well mine were 22mm, which obviously means it was a different size! So... you just need to get to the water lines and see what size socket it is. You still will have to remove the intake pipe, but it's only a 15 minute job to check to save you either stress or money about if you will need them.

3) I put the nipple onto the compressor housing and it is working fine. So if you are likely to change FMIC pipes it may be a better option *shrugs* up to you, apparently there is no performance difference by putting it in either spot.

4) Clean your water lines while they are out (if you take them out)

Cheers

Chris

Edited by eXc
  • 3 months later...
gt-t_r34 Mentor

gt-t_r34

Posted
Posted

i went off this guide its great so helpfull good job mate. i found that to get that tricky line off close to the engine where you had to take it off the block instead. you can take that oil line off next to it the rollercoaster one like a loop d loop! and you can undo that water line off the turbo instead of taking the whole line off the car.

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted
i went off this guide its great so helpfull good job mate. i found that to get that tricky line off close to the engine where you had to take it off the block instead. you can take that oil line off next to it the rollercoaster one like a loop d loop! and you can undo that water line off the turbo instead of taking the whole line off the car.

BINGO! that's spot on the money. that's the way i do them too. It's easy to get the line off from under the car once you take the oil line off.

you don't even have to take the oil line off - you can do it with the oil line on, but it makes it a lot easier.

  • 1 year later...
GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

hey just did this a couple of hours ago

few things i noticed

make sure u take off the oil return first, i forgot all about that until i went to take if off the car,

i left the dump pipe on the turbo and just undid the 3 bolts going to the front pipe, then when i installed it, i put the turbo back in the car with my new just jap split dump and front pipe attached to it,

the stupid line at the back of the turbo i could get a spanner on, yet couldnt be stuffed turning it that many times to get it off, so i undid the turbo from the manifold, carefuly slid it forward then used a socket and ratchet to take the line off, put it back on that way to (ratchet on, then bolt turbo to manifold)

i also took the actuator off the turbo while still in the car

also when i undid the oil drain, i undid the 2 12 mm bolts off the turbo instead of the flexible pipe

  • 5 weeks later...
Lock_to_lock Community Regular

Lock_to_lock

Posted
Posted

Yeah, use the RB 20 actuator. The RB25 actuator is set to something like 4psi.

There are a few differences with the turbos. A series 2 r33 turbo is the same as a series 1 r34 turbo. The both feture the nylon (i think thats the name for it) impeller wheel. Helps it to spool faster.

A series 2 r34 turbo has the same impeller wheel but has a OP6 rear housing. The rear housing is similer to the size of a VG30 turbo. You might see a little bit more lag with the bigger rear housing on the RB20.

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...
spranga Enthusiast

spranga

Posted
Posted

Bookmarked your project website. Thanks

I have placed up a full tutorial on this, from start to finish.. This question gets asked regularly, so it was about time *somebody* did it and wrote up exactly how they did it..

Due to the server here always losing my images for any period of time, I've decided to put it all on my project website..

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

Photos aren't actually up yet as I am still resizing, etc (and there are quite a few)... but for now you can read through. They will be up in a few days.

cheers,

Gordon

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 years later...

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