Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just wondering if anyone has mounted a sub in the centre of the rear seat (flush) of a R33?

a mate of mine once had a 12" mounted in the rear seat of his vr comodore and it sounded great! also it didnt take up any space in the boot ect

u can try, if u want to put it in the centre then u have to move the "rear fuse/relay"box it takes alot of shuffling around, i have tried and i just settled to take out the sheet of metal to let more bass through plus add metal grill on my arm rest (4-door skyline).

well i was wondering if anyone has done it and thaught they might be able to let me know what they came across in the way of problems doing the job, ive had a good look at it and it looks quite plausible

im really suprised that knowone has replied sayn they have done it yet, i dont know heaps about sound systyms but i dislike boxes in boots as they take up room and for mine its like you may aswell put the sub in another car because the boot is a sealed erea

a freind of mine once had a vr comodore with the sub in the centre of the rear seat and it was awsome, it didnt take up too much space, it looked awsome and sounded even better!

i have also seen one in a car wich had a sealed box around it (in the boot) and ports going thru the parcel shelf?

maybee you need a certian sub to get the right effect? i was considering the alpine type R

do you install sound systyms fhrx?.... does my idea sound silly to you??...lol

Dave

Edited by r33freely

You know, I've never actually thought of doing this to a skyline.. I'm about to put in a sub, sounds like a good idea.

If any1 with any pics of setup etc would be able to post some.. Would be very very appreciative.

Yes, better sound in the boot. i have a Pioneer 121spl 12" sub in a ported box in my boot. sounds great compared to a mate who has one pointing into his car in his VT.

The things with the commodore is that the middle seat folds down (they dont in skylines do they?) which makes it easy as to just by a sub in a box and just throw it in. Yet i had to get a custom box made for mine to sit over the diff hump. its nothing fancy but it does the job.

damn, and i thought i was gonna be original with it in my r32, :(

r33freely, have u heard of pioneers new shallow subs.. the use like a super magnet, and apparently they were made for this very sourt of thing, on the pioneer site they have a review on it, and like how it was designed for utes/cars with shit all space..

its worth checking it out,

as for the instillation, id love to help, but i have NFI on how its done :D

i also would love to see pics posted of anyone who has put this idea into reality...

cool!, grim05.... ill check it out!!

dont worry im dead keen to do it because there is no way known im filling my boot up with 300kls of shit!!

and i will have pics up as soon as its done but i know it wont be for a while yet

i am talking to some trimmers to see what they think cause im sure i can mount it all but the trimming ect isnt my speciality!!

Dave

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

f**k YEAH!! nice work man, thats fkn sick!! nice ouch with the xbox to, i got mine modded so i have like 40 games on it, which would make it ideal for placement like that :D

but yeah, thats fkn sick, is that the skull from wildboys?

Mounting a sub in the rear seat will never get you the same sort of sound as if you mount it in its own box. The reason for this is that you can tune a sub box to suit the characteristics of your sub. Most subs state an 'ideal' enclosure volume. They range from 0.5 cubic foot to 1.5 cubic foot. Your boot (probably about 3-4 cubic foot) is definitely not small enough to build decent reverberating pressure that would allow the subs to sound really great.

If your boot space means that much to you though, go for the rear seat install. Just be prepared to be disappointed if it's not done properly though. You will easily get 4-5db more out of a well built sub box (this is a lot in sound terms).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cleaner signal so timing is more accurate at all rpm also found it to start more on first rotation but could also be I've nailed prime and crank fuel. For under $400 and 30mins of your time, its a good solution especially once the optical sensor does start to play up you won't notice it until in higher rpm and it heat soaks.
    • On a 400hp RB, what benefits other than "it's not 30+ years old" are you seeing from the NZ Wiring Kit trigger setup? If it were me going to change triggering, my belief would be to go for a crank trigger to remove the issues caused by what people claim is belt stretch etc, but that's from my understanding a much larger issue for super high power, rather than those in the 400hp and below club.
    • The NZ wiring kit is a 1/3 the price and will be perfectly fine for your application, I've ran one for 6+ years and many others have. Comes as a full plug into factory connector and the settings for a Link. https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/ Always comes back to the tuners knowledge and experience with a tuning platform. It takes years to become proficient and learning all aspects and capabilities. I've been using Links for 16 years now (rb and sr paltforms) and always learning something new with adding tables, diagnostics and data logging. Stay 98 for the usability and keep it simple so you can enjoy the car more. With experience I'll give you a current example of the industry I am in. They use Motec m190 and only use VE tuning when they have a torque mapping available and would solve the "PARITY" issues that plagues the category all because the muppet doing the tuning doesn't understand the platform or want to learn it and the product seller have no idea on its full capabilities ( I had a good laugh as when firing up an older car that just got completed and they didn't understand the injector scaling or how to change it for different fuel being used)  
    • I'm sure there are specific hygrometers for it. But if you can just throw a high enough ranged temp sensor (theromcouple that came with your DMM, for example) into a pot of it on the BBQ, you can see when it boils.
    • I have multiple bottles in a shed that gets hot, and I'm in SEQ, so it's humid. Maybe we test their theory... Anyone have a system to accurately measure moisture content in oil?
×
×
  • Create New...