Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Put a boost tap in last week and have been playing round with it. My car only has the standard gtst intercooler. Could someone experienced and mechanically minded tell me what the max boost that I should run it on without the intake temps getting too high or the a/f mix becoming lean. Seems to hold 12psi fairly well.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90503-winding-up-boost-on-a-33-gtst/
Share on other sites

I personally run ~9.5psi with full exhaust and it's fine.

With summer coming, I wouldn't want to run anymore through the standard cooler personally. You're risking too much money for a couple of extra KW :D

huh, i personally wouldnt go over 11 psi to be safe with a bigger intercooler

13 is to much for stock turbo

Not worried about the turbo. It puts out fine. Im worried about the piston and rings. Thats it.

One other question. Is the car speed limited? I've nearly reached the top of 5th and haven't found one, yet people tell me it's limited to 180km/h.

serious? u held 14psi wit standard ecu, standard computer?

god mine wouldnt even let me get to 14psi...cuts out

not even 12psi

well count urself lucky, if the ecu let u do that, u would soon have no turbo, and possibly more problems, 12psi is within the limits, possibly even 11psi, push it more and ur asking for some trouble

Not worried about the turbo. It puts out fine. Im worried about the piston and rings. Thats it.

One other question. Is the car speed limited? I've nearly reached the top of 5th and haven't found one, yet people tell me it's limited to 180km/h.

are you really doing 180 ?

when they are imported they are fitted with an 180km speed limiter as part of compliance, this is easily bypassed and removed, so its possible that its removed, technically u shouldnt be able to top out 4th (on a manual)

which i have never tried, cause those speeds on the road are a little bit stupid u know ...

10psi for me, never any more.

and if u reached the top of fifth(250km/h) u have your speed limiter removed

at higher boost you should worry about your turbo not your motor. the standard ecu will go rich and retard and it should feel slow anyway.

serious? u held 14psi wit standard ecu, standard computer?

god mine wouldnt even let me get to 14psi...cuts out

not even 12psi

lol... my car is well looked after. Im an apprentice mech.

plus I put out the exta dosh for bp ultimate :D

Not to mention that the turbo would be working harder to push that much air through the stock cooler (as I've been told they are pretty restrictive)

Personally, I'd recommend no more than 10psi. Who knows, if your turbo blows, you could end up with nasty bits in your engine, not really worth it....

Not to mention that the turbo would be working harder to push that much air through the stock cooler (as I've been told they are pretty restrictive)

Personally, I'd recommend no more than 10psi.  Who knows, if your turbo blows, you could end up with nasty bits in your engine, not really worth it....

Thanks Tomm0. This is exactly the sort of stuff I want to find out. Thats something I haven't thought about. What damage could it cause if the turbo blows?

lol... my car is well looked after. Im an apprentice mech.

plus I put out the exta dosh for bp ultimate  :D

it does not matter what fuel or what u are, if u run 14psi the turbo is sure to die soon after some hard use. do a search on stock turbo and u will see why, but simply put, the exhaust wheel is ceramic, and does not handle heat well.

haha whoaaa watch out people, hes an apprentice!!! lol just joking, yea i use the good fuel also...

Coupe This: i had no intention of running 14psi! it was set to 12psi....held it flat up a hill...major cut out, dont want that again, dont even want it at 10psi, raising the boost wit mostly standard parts dosnt enhance performance at all, car runs slower at any boost above 9 or 10 or 11....its set at standard until i put my power fc, bosh 040 pump, fuel presure reg and cam gears in, than i will have it at a max of 12psi

It's more a matter of keeping the heat as low as possible. The figure most people use is 13psi, but if you go on track days it might blow up at 11psi due to the heat, simply too hard to predict.

With a FMIC, most people run 12psi without any problems.

Dont intend on going to track days until I have all the stuff to handle long periods of high load. At the moment I only give it hard for a couple of minutes at a time. Or drag it on the quarter mile.

Cheers for the productive answers Tomm0

10psi sound like the go till FMIC is in then i'll see how 12psi goes.

Edited by r33nut

I would have wagered a bet that your turbo would have blown within the month if you kept it running at 14psi.

Its all about what you want: A quick high or reliable buzz?

I dont really understand how it works but from what I've read, the stocker experiences diminishing returns after 12psi.

Personal recommendation? I reckon keep it at 10psi until you get a FMIC, especially with the hotter summer days approaching.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
    • Hello friends, i have a good friend in Canada that looking for a good condition 1993 GTR around him please if one or know someone around you that is willing to let it go please let me know so that i can inform him.....Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...