Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

phhhpht... yous got it all wrong... wen get out of the car go and rip the fuel relay out so the fuel pump dont start... my mate did that with his vl thru hi school and never had a problem :)

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

Bottom line is if they really want to steal it They will

had a mate who owned a vk Brock took it to calder took rotor button out took relay out for ignition the only thing we come up with is that they trailered it out whilst we were in side

or rolled it out. had a fellow in parramatta that lost a S14 the same way. new car (2004 when I did it.) had quiktrack on it. no problems now.

in regard to theft of vehicles, if I wanted a lot of vehicles quickly which would I do: ( I have a light truck licence btw)

find a group of mates and go pinch a few cars all at once OR

pinch a flatbed. have a think about that one..

truck is definetly the best way, if a theif really wants something quick and easily they wont stuff around with ur alarm they will just put it on a truck and leave quicksmart :P

which means that if you are really worried about your cars security either dont leave it anywhere or get a tracker as chris has said many times

A little trick a friend told me as he is a towie when you park you car, turn the wheel to full lock into the kerb then lock it, if thay try to drag your car up onto the tray the car will want to turn, which makes it that little bit harder to take.

Honestly IMO, the best way to install an alarm is to do it yourself, then everything is customised and not wired the same as every single car on the street.

I've got my entire alarm wired totally different to most or all cars, the box is actually on the left hand side of the car and all the wires are routed together with the stock wiring so when a crook pulls out the wiring it looks like there's no alarm attached...

Using a BW10000, I managed to get 4 pt immobiliser outta it, hooked up a pile of relays in parallel to each other...

got one for fuel, starter, power, ignition...

  • 7 years later...

Believe CHRIS ROGERS when he tells you anything about alarms ect. My r33 GTS-t wouldn't unlock the other morning and the immobiliser wouldn't turn off. I gave Chris a buZz and he came over. Turned out I had 2 alarms in my car and one died hence the issue. No bulkshit he had my car running in almost 45sec. He is the only one who put alarms in ANYTHING I drive. Because when he does it he does it with his own experience at hand and fits them so there as hard as possible for him so damn near impossible for anyone else. Chris's a alarm /Auto Elec GURU.

Thanks heaps for your help mate.

Maybe but the fellow that posted and bumped the thread was privy to me hot wiring and bypassing two alarms in under 45 seconds.

He has a right to be happy that I did it before a thief did.

Anyone recommend a good place on the Gold Coast where I can buy & get them to install the alarm PROPERLY..

I would try it myself as stated in this thread, but when it comes to electrics.. I'm fried :)

Not really looking for anything too exy, the car will be locked in fence and garage but still..

Edited by Zrobe

run it up to me and I will do it.

phone number in sig.

No worries, I'm on phone so couldn't see your sig.

Didn't realise you we're in Brisbane.

When I do get my alarm (probably not for a while, car is currently not running) I will take it straight to you.

Are you also able to remove my current alarm? Was on with the car when purchased and stuffs around every now and then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have just offended every teenage boy in America
    • Structured text and other high level PLC programing languages are not allowable in Functional Safety. They are very difficult to audit. My PLC stuff is almost exclusively oriented towards Burner Management Systems which are a particularly pernicious form of Safety Instrumented System, when implemented in an SPLC. Even the part of the code written to work in the non-safety logic part of the PLC, like with a Siemens S7-1500 series, still needs to be treated as if it was safety code, with access restrictions, code fingreprints and the like. And Allen Bradley can go EABODs. They ae full of shit. They have this whole lie going on where they say if you use a ControlLogix controller and its IO, and then just duplicate the IOs (ie, run in series or parallel depending on type, to try to make it "fail safe") and "use these programming styles and place these restrictions on what you do" that you can achieve SIL2. What a load of crap. They just get away with it because no-one in the US seems to understand the first thing about Functional Safety and carries on as if all they have to do is buy only SIL2 rated equipment and hey presto, it's a SIL2 system. Idiots. /rant
    • If you're really considering leaving it, a great question to ask is, is the magnet going to stick to the sump? The answer to the above is the same answer towards if I'd have any level of comfort leaving it... Personally, based on the cost of a motor if the magnet were to cause damage, I'd be fishing it out either way. Use the methods in here. It fit in through the plug hole, it'll come out.   PS, get a small actuatable claw for a bore scope. OR if you know a vet, they have really cool controllable scopes with hooks on the end. Supposedly they're like playing a video game. Ask if they can acquire you one of their scopes... Engine oil after all is just a different type of lube right? Will only make it easier on the next dog or cat...
    • All other (Boolean) logic functions though, are just built on those blocks above. Which does give you a lot of functionality in logic. It is basing that on using thresholds with analogue signals like GTS alluded to.   Not having things like timers will make it less useful for some of the ramp up logic you'd want, and again, on Haltecs capacity specifically, I'm not across anymore what you can / can't do with different tables.   I'm assuming, with your logic you want to implement, not only do you want your timing safeties, you're wanting to be able to derive the duty cycle for your solenoid, to maintain I'm assuming 175PSi? Or are you using a standalone WMI controller to maintain the DC correct, and you just want the Haltech working out which fuelling maps you should be on?
    • It doesn't seem to follow revs. Oddly it seems to follow TPS a little bit from what I can see, but with some delay a bit. IE end of the graph, when he lets off throttle fully, pressure drops a lot, then slowly builds back up, but rpm is on a nice cruisey drop off. I do agree though, it seems very electrically.
×
×
  • Create New...