Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Cooler With Re-allocator Kit....

J-Boy

By J-Boy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

That depends on many things...........

Type of car

Type of cooler

Type of fittings

Type of Hose

Location of cooler and remote oil filter unit

w/shop and quality of install

and probably a couple other things i have missed

:)

Baz Experienced

Baz

Posted
Posted

Haha I'll do it for $299 :)

Take into consideration also the cost of the new filter (probably worth replacing) and replacement of new oil as well. Doesn't take long to do and its a pretty simple upgrade. Much easier than the FMIC installation

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted (edited)

yes i installed mine in a 33 gtst, its not as simply as everyone might think. running the lines neatly and securely, and making custom brackets to hold everything. I found the brackets is what took me the longest to do, bout an hour in itself. All up about 2 hours with abit of mucking around doing an unrushed good quality job for first time. Id imagine 2nd time would be alot quicker.

Edited by r33_racer
saliya Rising Star

saliya

Posted
Posted
Whats the usual labour cost of installing an oil cooler kit with remote filter allocator?

"It depends" is right.

A mate of mine from Pirtek and I put a cooler and remote-filter on my GTR

one night, it took about 4 hours. That's not including the prep work (relocating

the battery to the boot, making the bracket for the cooler itself).

The work we actually did on the night was:

mounting the cooler

enlarging the hole for hosework between engine bay and front RHS guard

mounting the remote filter mount

mounting the thermostat

cutting/crimping 4 hoses

... If you use clamps, and rubber hose, it will be faster (but leakier ;)).

You also won't have to be as careful of braided lines rubbing a hole in something.

I think my hoses have been in place for about 15 months without a leak.

Regards,

Saliya

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • sonicii
      Mechanic in Victoria

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...