Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok here is the problem, i have no power above 2500 revs, it will go up to here fine then once it hits that point then it will just stop like it is not getting any pertol. When it is doing this problem it will idle at about 1500 - 2000 revs instead of 500 - 1000 revs. Now this does not happen every time i drive the car and there is no common pattern that makes it do it.

I have had the car services and the mechanics cleaned out the injectors, put a new fuel pump in, checked the fuel pump, changed spark plugs and a heap of other things and could not find anything that is making the problem.

The car is a r32 gts-t (rb20det) with a 3" exausht from turbo and a 5" tip, and a HKS pod filter. Any help would be great as it is making the car so hard to drive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90708-annoying-problem/
Share on other sites

The 5" tip is your problem - too much bling for a R32 GTSt.

Seriously, though, if you searched these forums you would have been able to uncover that fact that a dead or dying AFM (Air Flow Meter) will set the ECU into limp-home mode and will not permit the engine to rev at more than 2500.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90708-annoying-problem/#findComment-1633914
Share on other sites

my bad its only 4"

Hehe, in that case maybe you need it upgraded to 5" ;)

Seriously though, it's almost certainly an AFM problem. I've had a similar thing happen when I accidentally yoinked out my S-AFC awhile ago, which among other things, severs the signal wire from the AFM. I also recently have my AFM die a half-arsed death, which resulted in the car being unable to idle, although I could get above 2500rpm in that case by keeping the throttle open.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90708-annoying-problem/#findComment-1634188
Share on other sites

Why not just run an ecu diagnostic rather than playing guessing games to see what your problem is? That will give you a definative answer to if your car has a bung AFM. Idling problems can be caused by an excessive amount of things just to name a few dirty/in-op/incorrectly set AAC valve, incorrectly set idle via throttle plate, carbon buildup on throttle plate, AFM problems, air regulator and the list goes on....

Do a seach and that should fix your problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90708-annoying-problem/#findComment-1634265
Share on other sites

Second hand should be around $150 or less. Try Ebay, you might be lucky. If not then JustJap should have one and they deliver too. Test it before you go and buy one first, it could just be a bad connector or something. See if you can borrow a known working one from someone and hook it up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90708-annoying-problem/#findComment-1634395
Share on other sites

Going to the mechanics tomorrow to have it hooked up to a diagnostics computer. Hopefully it is just a bad connector as this will take away money from my FMIC ;)

What would cause it to go into limp-home mode, as it doesnt always have the problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90708-annoying-problem/#findComment-1634419
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...