Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You really need to get this analysed by someone independent, preferably without stripping it further 'yourself'. I would make the following observations:

- the wear shown in the picture extends ABOVE the max travel of the top ring in the bore (or that's the way it appears). That being the case, the piston/bore clearance measurement you give is meaningless since that was measured at the skirt (ie lower down the bore). To me it suggests abnormal loading of the piston. There also appears to be some evidence of poor/uneven ring seal.

- hardness tests (of what ??) prove nothing in terms of detonation.

- it would be rare indeed to find anything wrong with the piston material. You will need to show that the pistons were incorrectly/poorly manufactured (ie not 'fit' for purpose) or mis-described in some way by the manufacturer in effect misleading you/the engine builder in terms of your requirements.

Good Luck.

- Engine builder pulled it down.

Not really independent, I'm afraid. There are specialists that do this sort of engine failure work, but getting it done is not cheap. I have helped people in the past but it's a bit of a minefield.

-These pistons are barrel shaped not tapered. Mahle tech department (distributer) also agreed with the engine builder that clearences are OK, yet still blamed over boosting

I'm sure that's the case, but an explanation needs to be found for how wear like that could occur - esp in only 2000k's or so.

They DID agree that this was not the case.

I'm hardly surprised....

The more we dig into this problem the more we find indicators of a manufacturing issue.

Someone has to do the work to prove this for you to have a chance.

First thing i'm gonna say is that I don't think this thread will last long.

Second thing, I don't think your approach to the problem does much other than aggrevate ACL, who probably just see you as another whinging customer who f ucked up when using their product. Rather than theorising that "it's ACL's fault because we couldn't have done anything wrong", why don't you actually determine the root cause of the problem?

Is it only one cylinder or all of them?

First thing I’m going to say is that I don't think this thread will last long.

-Poor attitude, why do we have forums? Look up what it means.

We're not allowed to pay out on businesses. Read the forum rules mate. The lawyers f ucked true freedom of speech.

Why don't you actually determine the root cause of the problem?

-We have, that’s why we are taking legal action against ACL who we are holding responsible.

Care to share?

So far you have only told us about the damage. You don't appear to have given any reason other than 'faulty pistons'. What particular aspect of the piston is responsible for the damage?

Edited by browny

Guys;

come on, cool it a bit. we're being appraised of an issue that appears is piston related, that can't be bad in terms of sharing knowledge which is what these forums are designed to do. i am certainly interested in the outcome and the findings and i'm sure others are. let's just keep it objective.

tonkau; mate i can't post on behalf of SAU because I'm not a mod but would you consider editing your posts to remove any company names? i'd hate to see a 'situation' develop between a car manufacturer, an aftermarket parts supplier and a motorsport shop, particualry since one appears to be an employer. and we particularly don't want to get the SAU site involved in a litigation situation. i think we all acknowledge your frustration and that you're trying to do the right thing by other SAU members.

just my 2c guys, let's take a clinical approach to this and we can all win.

Kind Regards

Edited by Scooby

it really sucks when people dont responsibilty for their product being faulty or work being shoddy i have been stung in the past too tankau. I hope you stick it to ACL if it is really their fault because that sort damage shouldn't occur at only 2000k's. All the best with your problem dont give up take it to the furthest extent someone has to.

is there any literature at all that states the boost limit for the ACL piston or unsuitability for turbo apps ? if not, you've got em on that one I reckon. if warnings do exist they'll get you on it everytime, right or wrong, despite what we think the pistons should be able to do.

could there be another cause?

I personally hav never seen a piston with that sort of clearance ARIAS have problems with 0.0045" and are normally run at less than recomend but if the acl have required 0.007" clearance that is what has caused all the problems.What were the ring gap like and did this engine breathe or what.

pete

Edited by pnblight
First thing I’m going to say is that I don't think this thread will last long.

-Poor attitude, why do we have forums? Look up what it means.

Why don't you actually determine the root cause of the problem?

-We have, that’s why we are taking legal action against ACL who we are holding responsible.

As stated, doesnt matter what forum means. You cant come here slandering a product.

You've said it yourself that your no expert.

I think a thread such as this should wait until the court does decide who is or is not wrong based on both parties presenting thier side. Not us seeing one side without the other

This is very similar to the Catco/Magic CAT thread where there was only one sided information. You cant slander a product/business here on SAU openly without proven fact.

Retrotec's post has pout me in a 50/50 about locking this... i shall keep my eye on it and have a think.

Cheers

A quick look at ACL's web site suggests their standard range of "Race Series" pistons, which have been around for yonks, aren't forged. ACL never suggests they are. The warranty for these pistons specifically says they are not for forced induction applications.

ACL do have a newer range of "Race Series Hyperlite" forged pistons, which I think came out earlier this year (made by Mahale IIRC?). There is basically no literature on these. Since some of these pistons are specifically produced for turbo engines (BA turbo, Skylines etc), I cannot see how the standard "Race Series" warranty can apply.

So what Retrotec is saying seems correct, however I think it's not really relevant here because tonkau's problems seems to be with this newer series of "Hyperlite" forged pistons, which are a different beast altogether.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...