Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From http://www.exvitermini.com/

That said, the car is now being re-stripped and having the entire electrical system re-wired.  We can now remove all items that are required to be road legal, such as intrusion bars, doors, glass, air bags, seat belts and the various computer assisted controls that are no longer required (such as ABS, ATTESA and HICAS).
Originally posted by CamGTS

From http://www.exvitermini.com/  

no longer required (such as ABS, ATTESA and HICAS).  

Maybe I'm being naive, but the idea of a GTR drag car is to use all FOUR wheels to deliver power ?

How would removing attesa be good ? It's just a 2wd GTS then!!

Just look at VL's.If you have sticky enough boot's and good sup setup I guess you don't need ATTESA,it's more weight to move.Also those 1000hp GTR's in japan only in 9's and the VL's are up with them.My 2cents.

  • 3 years later...
What fuse on the GTR R32's?!

I would love to be able to put it into full RWD for a bit... just to see how it handles...  <_<  :lol:

they handle terrible, but spin the wheels ok!!

there really meant to be 4wd and obviously designed like that..

and with regards to the dyno run, they probably pull out the front drive shaft, only 4 bolts underneath the car, to dyno it it. (if its a 33) 32s, just pull the 4wd fuse link.

I would have thought ATESSA would have detected no traction under the rear wheels and engaged the fronts ?

But would there be a lack of traction under the rears? The wheels are still turning the rollers?

But would there be a lack of traction under the rears? The wheels are still turning the rollers?

The would not be lack of traction at the rear, but the large speed differential between the rotating rear wheels and stationary front wheels would make the ATTESSA system think there is a lack of traction and redistribute the power accordingly. Does that make any sense?

oops, haven't seen the vid. Assumed it was a 32.

You're correct, it is a little harder.

Ken

too hard obviously, not difficult to get those transfer cases smoking the clutch packs now is it. just visit gtr specialist workshops B)

yeah u must be far from an expert, the cam shaft control the opening and closing of valves to allow air into and out of the engine, then have nothing to do with ATTESSA

the shaft your are tihnk of may be the front drive shaft which goes from the transfer case to the front diff, yes as is mentioned above can be unbolted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah one of the first things I out in when I started having catch can filling up issues. Still prefer to empty 1-2 times a track day rather than every session
    • You'll find this link is probably more useful  Performance Turbochargers - Garrett - G GT GTX GTW Series Turbo TBG G35 1150 map may not even get added to my list depending on how it looks, the G35 1050 already is a mixed bag for making the numbers you would expect from the compressor map due to mismatch - I don't know how another 10lb/min of compressor flow is going to make that any better.   I've left out others for similar reasons as it's already getting quite big.   In terms of Precision, provide me with legit compressor maps for them and I'll do my thing   I'll add some more of the newer Xona Rotor options are they're pretty boss, I'd take a 68mm Xona over a G35 "1150" any day of the week - or Precision for that matter.
    • Ahh got it. Well maybe install a drain for the catch can somewhere down low and accessible like a wheel well too....
    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
×
×
  • Create New...