Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks SK!!

Was hoping you could shed some light on this issue. As you could see we knew the CDI system must be superior but wasn't sure why and what benefits it would provide. The Autronics CDI with MSD coils seems popular. Motec must be a top of the line product as well

Well there goes my spitfire coils then, can't use it with the CDI setup. ;)

Would this system help in better economy, I understand that it produces a better burn so effiency would be better but the figures you have shown are in the higher rpm range.

If this saves on fuel cost's, then maybe in the long term it would help offset the cost. What about low rpm range, like highway driving?

I can see why it's not on the hot list for power increases, @$1600 (CDI & Coils) for only @40bhp but the other benefits look attractive as well.

What you think?

:) cheers :)

Adam

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Not good then.

I really wanted to get to that 600HP mark but now I'm scared that my gearbox will not hold. Wouldn't mind spending the money on the OS Giken gearset if mine went but one day I'd like a GTR R34 and wanted to transplate as much gear as possible from my GTR R33. With the 6 speed Getrag box in the R34 you can't transplate it.

What are your thoughts on fixing the problem?

Second hand boxes are going cheap....

LESS POWER..... ;)

Alot of people are trying to get more POWER!!! B)

Trying to get less is.......can't even say the words.

Well I'm making around 560hp and my box is holding up, I might be making more then 560hp anyway cause I did an exhaust upgrade and really felt the difference but I haven't a dyno result to prove it.

Keep us informed on how it goes.

Best of luck with the gearbox anyway.

Edited by WetGTR
Yeh looks like another 32 gtr box going in . Might have to run less power on the street to keep the box together.

haah, lol, u r too viscous on the gearbox simon ive seen your driving b4 :) maybe doing a 1st to 3rd gear, drift on the previous corner helped haha jk

gets expensive when u buy a new gearbox each week ;)

Wow 1480 kgs is pretty light, was that with an empty tank and what sort of cage does it have?

;) cheers :)

I weighed my R32 GT-R at Calder 2 weeks ago (Thanks to Stephen) and it came up at 1554kgs with a full tank and no driver.

Regards

Andrew

I weighed my R32 GT-R at Calder 2 weeks ago (Thanks to Stephen) and it came up at 1554kgs with a full tank and no driver.

Regards

Andrew

Thats 74kg heavier then mine although i only had 1/4 tank of fuel. I've taken all my hicass pumps and lines out which could be about 20kg and one turbo would be lighter then 2 i would say.

Time to try that cryogenic treatment Simon, might just do the trick.. and its not too expensive, so its worth a try ;)

Get Steve to rip a box open and take down the gearset and get it done.

Does this stuff work?

What would the cost be?

Wouldn't be bad to get i done before it chews a gearset up.

  • 2 weeks later...
Going to try it

Congrats simon, that's an awesome resujlt!!! :)

I don't see 650-680rwhp being out the question with more boost (although i'd imagine 700 would be pushing it).

Those are some very impressive times you've run at the strip... i'm surprised they didn't kick you out for running faster than a 10.99? :)

As for the comment on running CDI with autronics to achieve over 500rwhp... well over 500rwhp is possible without it, its just a lot more fooling around (ie. getting very precise ign/fuel maps) to get the car running smoothly at the higher power levels, and whether or not you want to risk missfires at high rpm/power outputs...

Also, sydney kid, thanks for the info on your experiences with CDI... alot of it makes sense when you think about it! :)

Edit: Simon, how do you find the Nismo twin plate? Reasonably easy to drive? The reason I ask is for my own project... I'm looking into twin plates for it, and basically whatever comes up for the right price... most have been OS Giken's and Nismo's for the nissan boxes...

Having said that, I possibly have an OS Giken sprung center twiin plate which I can buy, however, my brother said it did NOT seem "easy to drive" like most people say the OS's are... he even thought his solid center HKS triple was easier to drive. It looked fine visually.

Are there just many versions of the OS giken twins, with some being really bastard?

Sorry for the offtopic, just thought i'd ask someone who has had experience with skylines! :)

Cheers,

Christian

Edited by Wobbz

Simon,

sorry to hear about the box. How much boost do you think you will be able to run from the garret turbo, the reason i ask is after talking to Garret australia about my garret ball bearing turbos they informed me the turbos were rated to 2 bar which doesnt leave a lot of room to move 3 to 4 psi more from your current 24psi yeah.

pete

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
×
×
  • Create New...