Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well.. I wired and hooked everything up today... but for some reason, when i set it at 10 psi and floor it, my car would jump up to 10 psi for a split second, then drop off down to 5psi, then go up to 8psi, then down to 5psi, then back up to 8psi and it just keeps jumping back and forth... did I install something wrong or set the BC wrong? I tried every gain setting for 10 psi and it still ran like that each time... Anyone have a profec b with their RB and have this problem??? It almost seems like it gets up there at 10psi but then something opens or leaks or something and my boost goes away...

I tried all the different gain percentages (from 3% all the way up to 35%) and it still runs the same... Also, is there a reason why I can only go between 5% and 35%? I hear people put theirs at like 0% and stuff... I have an R34 RB25DET GT-T engine in my 240sx if that helps any...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91183-rb25-greddy-profec-b-spec-ii/
Share on other sites

Check what the boost cut is set at as a start and whether or not there is a duty reduction that is tripped when you hit the boost cut. It is probably worthwile to increase the boost cut well above the 10psi you want to run as a trial.

You could be bringing the turbo on too quick and its having a megga fit.

What are your settings on the profect?

Gain, set, & SetGain?

gain- 28

set- 100 (psi)

setgain- 42

with thesesettings, it boost to 10, then drops to 5, then up to 10 again and it stays ther... When i shift, the boost drops down to 5psi and then goes back up to 10 fairly slow and stays at 10

I now have:

Gain: 21%

Set: 70

SetGain: 49%

These settings gave me a very nice 10 PSI pull last night. It was boosting perfect last night. Holding very smooth and pulling hard. However, today when I drove around wtih the same settings, It spiked to 11.3 PSI and then it would bounce around between 9 psi and 11psi.... any thoughts?????

Thanks

Edited by PANGES

Ok this should help get rid of any confusion.

Set:- This is the max duty cycle the solenoid will run.

Think of it as how much air it will bleed off.

e.g. 20% will bleed of approx 20% of the pressureised air.

Gain:- This is how fast the boost controller will allow the solinoid to go from o% duty to the set duty cycle. This seting will bring the turbo on faster or slower etc.

SetGain:- The boost controller will bleed 100% air off till the set pressure and then just run the setting of set and gain (1st 2 points).

Ok The best way to set up the controller is to turn setgain to zero to start with.

Then adjust the set to your desired level of duty cycle. 20% should add approx 20% more boost than the set spring on your waste gate actuator.

Now start at 35% gain and go for a blat in third (on the highway). No all you need to do is keep dropping the gain till the boost stats to spike and back it off a little.

(too lower gain setting and the boost will spike, Too higher gain and the boost will come on to slow and/not reach the correct boost level.)

Once you get your boost comming on hard and staying constant just increase the setgain now untill it starts to spike and then just back it off.

Hope this helps and good luck.

Oh yeah, Also make sure your stock boost control solenoid is disconnected from the system.

I have a Profec B spec 2 on my rb20det using a vg30 turbo with an rb20 actuator.

I have the gain set at 2% at the moment and the start gain setting at 0.87bar, this gives me a nice setting with minmal spike, holds around 1.15-1.2 bar like this.

From the experience i have had with the controller the less gain set the better.

What settings are your running on yours? just curious. I'm going to play with it tonight.

For 16PSI (Lowboost)

Set-->65

Gain-->19

SetGain--> 0

For 20psi (High Boost)

Set--> 75

Gain--> 12

SetGain--> 0

On a cold night you may need to increase the gain.

On a hot night you may need to decrese the gain.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...