What's Going On With Everyones Cars?

[DJRIFT]

3# common fault with nissan PS system is they will over heat and go rock hard. this normaly only happens in motorkhanas but can happen in drift. lock to lock and the actual wheel alignment will cause this. if you run heaps of castor.

if the PS system isnt making the bullshit gurgling noise it doesnt need bleeding.

the fluid over the course of a drift event will expand to the point that i usualy have a 2/3rds full r33 resivor. this is what i maintain otherwise it just poils out.

if it goes hard then soft then hard thurough out a corner this usualy means a failing pump.

R33s had electric hicas so not having hicas wont affect the steering.

i know all of this through experiance with my mates drift 33 from a few years back.

[DJRIFT]

whats the right way?

i do it like this

pump the pedal till its hard then get who ever to open the caliper nipple then they close the nipple once the pedal has hit the floor

is that the right way lol

this is the right way.

make sure to only open the nipple slightly so there is resistnace in the pedal as it goes to the floor. then make sure its shut before lifting the peddal.

do it in a, Back left, back right, front left, front right pattern.

also make sure it doesnt run out of fluid at any stage otherwise you have to start again.

maybe try using a different colour fluid and bleeding untill you get the new colour out each brake. yes this is time consuming but worth knowing.

have you replaced the master cylender? are 100% sure you have no leaks. even in the caliper seals?

[Autumn33]

no worries, glad i am doing it the right way, ill try doing it the way you said back-front.

Just put a new cylinder in it, I cant find and leaks anywhere

[TJHill]

After new bus or a cheap R32 shell (Prefer 4 door) to put my RB20det in if any getting around. Unless someone can hook me up somewhere up north with compliance plates

[pipster11]

all skyline racks are self bleeding, turn the wheel lock to lock a few times and you should be all good

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

you guys should invest in some of those, i think it cost me about $30 for 4 of them last year

and bleed the system with the abs unplugged if you have abs

sb1010 is the nissan metric ones, i bought mine of the us ebay

[zoidbergmerc]

3# common fault with nissan PS system is they will over heat and go rock hard. this normaly only happens in motorkhanas but can happen in drift. lock to lock and the actual wheel alignment will cause this. if you run heaps of castor.

I'm running 6.5 degrees of castor, would that affect it?

if the PS system isnt making the bullshit gurgling noise it doesnt need bleeding.

I havn't noticed that noise

the fluid over the course of a drift event will expand to the point that i usualy have a 2/3rds full r33 resivor. this is what i maintain otherwise it just poils out.

Yep, I just let it overflow and didn't top it up

if it goes hard then soft then hard thurough out a corner this usualy means a failing pump.

Mine was hard all morning then fine in the afternoon. (in b4 innuendo)

Oh, also, I neglected to mention, my speedo doesn't work sense I put my new gearbox in. Does that like f**k up the speed sensitive steering or something?

Edited April 27, 2011 by zoidbergmerc

[sav man]

The speed sensitive sttering is only really for parking, so once your over 80 you won't notice the difference.

[toffy]

sounds to me like you need a new steering rack zoidberg . Autumn*** ( ) : 15;1 is leeeeeeeeeeeaaaaan (anywhere between 11.5:1 and 12.5:1 @ wot on full boost is 'optimal' and varies between tuner to where they tune your fuel map) , your ecu would be pulling all the timing it possibly can out , at minimum you need a safc , the extra 200cc your engine has would make a difference to tune btw , What type of fuel pump does your car have? if it's std it's a good time to replace it , go into the 'forced induction' forum and search rb25 , that will keep you busy for a few days . As for your brakes , does it have abs? , i had an issue with my 33 a few years back with the 'soft first tap' on the brakes , i traced it down to the abs unit , replaced it , and (out of luck due to it being 2nd hand) it fixed the problem , buying and fitting rebuild kits to your calipers makes a bit of difference too

[Funz]

The speed sensitive sttering is only really for parking, so once your over 80 you won't notice the difference.

speed sensitive? ricelines had that? lol.. i was pretty they only had HICAS which only operated above 80kmh unless the electronic version in 33's etc were different than the 32's hydraulic version? thought only the honda pooloodes had 4 wheel steer the whole time lol, unless you are talking lightened steering at very slow speeds? lol

[Clandestine]

Put on and adjusted my new rear sway bar last night after work, got dark half way through but turned out to be pretty easy, all packed up by 6ish. Now just to play around with them on the weekend, though I doubt I'll get it perfect until after the next track day where I can push her around the corners at higher speeds

[zoidbergmerc]

sounds to me like you need a new steering rack zoidberg

Prehaps, is there anyway to inspect my current one to see if it's shagged?

Also, is it possible for the steering rack to like jump a tooth? Because when I was drifting around basky last I was heading towards turn 1 and then the steering like bumped and then all of a sudden having the wheel straight turned me right and to go straight ahead was like 11 o'clock. Took it back to the pits and took the steering wheel off and restraightened it then it was fine for the rest of the day, except for being really really heavy.

Everyone I asked at the drifts just looked at me like I had two heads which was mildly annoying; albeit understandable, because most I've the time I've got no idea.

[Autumn33]

. Autumn*** ( ) : 15;1 is leeeeeeeeeeeaaaaan (anywhere between 11.5:1 and 12.5:1 @ wot on full boost is 'optimal' and varies between tuner to where they tune your fuel map) , your ecu would be pulling all the timing it possibly can out , at minimum you need a safc , the extra 200cc your engine has would make a difference to tune btw , What type of fuel pump does your car have? if it's std it's a good time to replace it , go into the 'forced induction' forum and search rb25 , that will keep you busy for a few days . As for your brakes , does it have abs? , i had an issue with my 33 a few years back with the 'soft first tap' on the brakes , i traced it down to the abs unit , replaced it , and (out of luck due to it being 2nd hand) it fixed the problem , buying and fitting rebuild kits to your calipers makes a bit of difference too

cheers for the info bud yeah ill be getting the safc off dave then going z32 & i'm also saving some cash to go pfc or haltec.

as for fuel pump im unsure, i think its stock but ill have a look & make sure, if its stock ill look into upgrading it.

ive had a quick look in the "forced induction" thread i could spend all day in there lol.

As for brakes i was told it was non abs but i have 2 abs fuses in the engine bay fuse box so im not sure... it had a non abs cylinder that ive replaced but to no help.

Edited April 29, 2011 by Autumn33

[toffy]

Prehaps, is there anyway to inspect my current one to see if it's shagged?

Also, is it possible for the steering rack to like jump a tooth? Because when I was drifting around basky last I was heading towards turn 1 and then the steering like bumped and then all of a sudden having the wheel straight turned me right and to go straight ahead was like 11 o'clock. Took it back to the pits and took the steering wheel off and restraightened it then it was fine for the rest of the day, except for being really really heavy.

Everyone I asked at the drifts just looked at me like I had two heads which was mildly annoying; albeit understandable, because most I've the time I've got no idea.

Your rack may have hyper extended past its limit , would be my bet anyways , i'll explain it better when i'm not on my phone!

cheers for the info bud yeah ill be getting the safc off dave then going z32 & i'm also saving some cash to go pfc or haltec.

as for fuel pump im unsure, i think its stock but ill have a look & make sure, if its stock ill look into upgrading it.

ive had a quick look in the "forced induction" thread i could spend all day in there lol.

As for brakes i was told it was non abs but i have 2 abs fuses in the engine bay fuse box so im not sure... it had a non abs cylinder that ive replaced but to no help.

it may have been converted from abs to non abs , take a pic of your engine bay from the strut tower back if you can and post it up

[Autumn33]

will do

[Dave.TAS]

Peter, the jumping problem you described can also be a loose or worn ball joint in the lower control arm, seen examples of slightly loose ones change the wheel alignment by over 30mm

[zoidbergmerc]

Thanks Dave, I'll check that too.

[Autumn33]

i have fixed my R&R problems:) thanks to the afm roachy sent me ( you have pm about payment ), its completely different to drive, heaps more responsive

i think its running lean tho ( using crap a/f ration drift guage ) it sits at around 14.8 - 15.5 on idle/cruising & about 13.9 - 14.5 on boost, as stated tho its a drift gauge so it could be reading wrong as its getting heaps of fuel.

what are the best plugs for rb's?

cheers

[toffy]

get gt garage,pro auto or howell to do a power run for you, good safety precaution for $100 odd

spark plugs= bcpr6es or bcpr7es , i use 6's in my cars with no hassle

[Autumn33]

cheers bud

ill give them a call

[Autumn33]

Hey guys, dose anyone know someone who could pull a dent out for me?

if no one can do it ill go to a bodyworks

cheers

Edited May 5, 2011 by Autumn33