Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im going with the vipec because its one they always use .. who said it would always be a streeter ? :thumbsup:

i was !! but after today i spent a few hours looking into ecu's and other items

so now my car will be going down to CONFIDYNE

for a motec or maybe haltec ecu and dyno tune .

as for the mods there still from befor install turbo . timeing belt . nice clean up new fluids .. maybe fuel pump and some little bits nothing to big :cheers:

Hmm I would be keen for a dyno run to get a 'before' statement before I hit engine modifications.

What sort of ride height should I be looking at to actually manage getting on the dyno :whistling:

If you can fit your foot under the car it'll get up there.

i was !! but after today i spent a few hours looking into ecu's and other items

so now my car will be going down to CONFIDYNE

for a motec or maybe haltec ecu and dyno tune .

as for the mods there still from befor install turbo . timeing belt . nice clean up new fluids .. maybe fuel pump and some little bits nothing to big :cheers:

I wouldn't bother with a motec, you pay a pretty big premium for no extra features, and the ones with the extra featues are $3000-$5000.

Just wondering if you have contacted Boost in Launceston for a ecu/tune? Just seem a lot of hassle to go all the way to ulverstone.

i was !! but after today i spent a few hours looking into ecu's and other items

so now my car will be going down to CONFIDYNE

for a motec or maybe haltec ecu and dyno tune .

as for the mods there still from befor install turbo . timeing belt . nice clean up new fluids .. maybe fuel pump and some little bits nothing to big :cheers:

hey mate. you are oviously new to this but there is more than one place to get a haltech or motec instaled around tas and for quite varying fees.

a bit of experiance has shown me that dealing with one good workshop for all work is by far the best way to get the most out of a car and enjoyment. all tuners will tune any car off the street but they are unlikely to put 100% into the job. if the workshop does all the mechanical work to a car they will then know that the engine is in sound condition, or maybe a bit tire,. also that all parts have been installed correctly thus allowing them to put a bit of back ground knolage into the performance of the car.

if you was planing on getting workshop a to do all the work then decided to get workshop b to finish it all off do you think workshop a is gooing to put its extra bit of effort into the job. if you want what workshop b does then maybe consider getting it all done by them.

in your case workshop a has already lead you down the wrong track so whats to say they are doing anything wright. this is only assumed from the info given by you.

every one on here is right in saying that a nistune will give you by far the best bang for buck at this stage. but non of them have pointed the out possibly the cheapest and best place to get one. you just have to look around a bit.

what ever you do dont get Motec's new budget plug in ecu. it is rubbish and hard to use compared to the likes of vipec and haltech

i would only ever run a Motec if i was running a top top end race car. they just arent user friendly enough for amature racing. haltech, vipec, link most of these will do 100% of what any amature needs.

you seemed to listn to the advice from before so hopefully you will have a bit of a think about your next step to.

hey mate. you are oviously new to this but there is more than one place to get a haltech or motec instaled around tas and for quite varying fees.

a bit of experiance has shown me that dealing with one good workshop for all work is by far the best way to get the most out of a car and enjoyment. all tuners will tune any car off the street but they are unlikely to put 100% into the job. if the workshop does all the mechanical work to a car they will then know that the engine is in sound condition, or maybe a bit tire,. also that all parts have been installed correctly thus allowing them to put a bit of back ground knolage into the performance of the car.

if you was planing on getting workshop a to do all the work then decided to get workshop b to finish it all off do you think workshop a is gooing to put its extra bit of effort into the job. if you want what workshop b does then maybe consider getting it all done by them.

in your case workshop a has already lead you down the wrong track so whats to say they are doing anything wright. this is only assumed from the info given by you.

every one on here is right in saying that a nistune will give you by far the best bang for buck at this stage. but non of them have pointed the out possibly the cheapest and best place to get one. you just have to look around a bit.

what ever you do dont get Motec's new budget plug in ecu. it is rubbish and hard to use compared to the likes of vipec and haltech

i would only ever run a Motec if i was running a top top end race car. they just arent user friendly enough for amature racing. haltech, vipec, link most of these will do 100% of what any amature needs.

you seemed to listn to the advice from before so hopefully you will have a bit of a think about your next step to.

im thinking of changeing . as my tuner now cant keep going with my needs so there just installing the turbo kit for me and doing the service .. ulverston is slose for me the hobart one i dont trust the dyno tuner up here ..im calling them monday wen i was talking to them they said the platnum ecu and haltek only come in that from wat if hurd they are working on a 33 and other nissans so a know there got there foot up in there in wat i need unlike mine that are more v8's if they where to tune it for me i would keep going back thats why im not getting my machanic to install the vipic then go somewhere new and ask for a dyno tune i would like one dyno tuner to do the rest of the work for me yer i should have started with them but as u said im new pinch.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • have you rotated the car yet? if so how smooth was it?
    • And finally, I had the driver's side airbox off while adding a long drain hose under the oil can to down near the oil filter. Doesn't look good, it has definitely had an turbo oil seal leak and looks like it has been for a long time.....guess I'll have to get a pair of highflows to put on the shelf It's also worth mentioning it has a really strange clamp between the bottom of the airflow meter (which has a big barb/lip on it) and the intake pipe. I've used the magic of MSPaint to show, basically you have to clip out those 2 steel springs which unlocks the hose from the AFM. I used 2 flat screwdrivers, the spring sort of clips into the unlocked position. Reassembly you just pop them both back flat once the hose is far enough up the AFM that the spring clamp is above the barb. Weird to use but much more convenient once your'e used to it compared to trying to do up a hose clamp under the airbox like on 32 GTR
    • The other thing I started was a fire extinguisher bracket.  As with a few other cars previously (350z, Leaf), I'm going to add a bracket between the navigator seat's front bolts, then mount the extinguisher on that. Unfortunately Nissan (probably the same engineer who did the A/T fluid interwarmer) decided that the front seat brackets would be recessed and uneven so the bracket shape was a bit tricky; I ended up doing 1 part under each seat mount (the large hole is because there is a flange under the seat mount to allow for the carpet thickness)   and then a horizontal part between those 2 No final pic yet as the paint needs to dry, I'll post up once that's done  
    • OK, a few half jobs on the skyline this weekend because its booked for a test day at Wakefield Park on 27-Feb. While the Ecutek dongle and app provide display and logging of a heap of engine parameters, they annoyingly don't have access to the auto trans temp. So I grabbed an oil temp gauge from Raceworks which apparently has warning colour change and peak hold, about $95  and their 8mm hose sender adapter Now, I foolishly thought these 2 might work together, but no, the sender needs about 30mm clearance in the fitting and the adapter only had about 8mm. I've cobbled something together with an NPT T piece and blank for now but will try and work out something more permanent as I intend to use the same fitting for the data logger in the future. Under the car, Nissan's engineers decided that only one opportunity for coolant and trans fluid to mix (the radiator) was not enough, and they also added an interwarmer near the sump on the passenger side like the engine oil has: I've cut the hose between the auto trans outlet and the interwarmer inlet and inserted the sender there as that gives the best indication of temp inside the transmission.   From there it is back to the pain of running that sender wire to the cabin, I've run it up near the passenger headlight, into the battery box, across the channel at the back and into the master cylinder area where I ran out of wire length (and patience). Remainder of the job is through the grommet near the accelerator pedal that I've used previously, then across under the dash to where I will temporarily mount it on the console for track days (and remove it other times). The gauge will also need IGN, BAT and earth (I'm not going to worry about illumination as I'll unhook it between track days)  
    • This piece is obscenely discontinued. I honestly hate the frameless window design because the rubber gets stressed and the guides as well every time you open and close the door.
×
×
  • Create New...