Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not 100% sure how it happened thinking i was a tad to greedy on how much i wanted them pumped, i got my arm down there from inside & pushed it out a little but its still sucked in a fair bit,

had it out today so grabbed some pics.

1348561845632ed.jpg

r33new11111.jpg

img20120925164518ed.jpg

img201209251644111ed.jpg

Edited by Autumn33

INTERESTING....

Make sure you're pushing the guard out, not up, that's the only way I could think that it could happen :/ ...

You gotta delete that rear wiper too, you can get bungs for the hole from bunnings.

INTERESTING....

Make sure you're pushing the guard out, not up, that's the only way I could think that it could happen :/ ...

what happens when you're flaring guards , the problem is , when you stretch the guards , you're doing exactly that , so something has to give . If you look at the furthest point outwards of the flare , that's also the deepest point of the dent , to stop this you need to heat your guards as much as you can without burning the paint and find ways to hold the panel as it starts to shrink/dent . Another big no no is trying to push it out too far too soon , you have to do it in stages when going that far , and it can take ages

getting a thicker swaybar for the stagea

and a cusco rear strut brace (apparently makes a massive difference)

those parts will probably make their way onto the car before i get to drive it tho, can't wait for November when i go back to qld where my car is :)

Getting pretty bored with driving the R31 about

Decided 2 pull my clutch out in the shed wasn't as hard as people have said but does take a little extra time its um well f**ked been running on the rivets for 150k and its still the stock clutch gearbox has never been out 384553_525266717499224_275166229_n.jpg

getting a NPC 5puk brass button of disco also

going to do the rear main seal and output shaft seal while box is out ..

So need a little advice, i have a JJR front dump to go on my car, looking to get a high flow to finish it all off,

was looking at getting a venom high flow,

was thinking of going a 200CPSI 4.5" and emailed george, he recommended a 100CPSI and 5"...

From what ive read most people have said any metal high flow cat is illegal, will the 200cpsi make a difference, or should i just go with

the 100cpsi 5" cat?

I'm not sure how advanced tassie police are but most on the mainland are able to check that your cat is a cat

usually just with one of those thermometer guns i think, when the cat is working its hotter than the rest of the exhaust

Just go the 100 cell cat and you'll never have to worry

if you have to go over an epa thing (only happens in vic by the sounds of it) then you probably wont pass anyway due to how rich rb's run

Tas police are no where near that level, even if they could even think to look, it most definitily wouldnt be a priority since the most cars on the road are clearly and visible (or audibly) unroadworthy - if your car is tidy, you wont have a problem, and if its not, they'll pin you for something else.

I havn't had a cat in any of my skylines over the past 7 years, (until my current completely standard one, but only because it has a stock exhaust) and i think you'll find >50% of skylines on the road either do not have a cat, or have a gutted cat. For me its either standard/3" cat, or no cat at all (decat pipe is $50), dont waste your money on anything else as it doesnt really make sfa difference anyway (mainly noise and fire).

yeah i didnt think it would be a prob down here just where im gonna be in a year or two, i guess ill keep my stock stuff in case of anything happening,

and yeah my car is crazy rich atm i think, gonna clean my afm, adjust my idle and clean the aac valve soon

get a tune

gt garage should be able to set up a z32 with a nistune for around $1k

several i know have said that a good tune is the best upgrade that they have done to their cars (better than highflow/turbo upgrades)

  • 2 weeks later...

so went to install my new front dump and could get the cat off with little problems, then went to remove the turbo/dump pipe bolts, its slightly annoying cause the heatshield bracket gets in the way... but anyway the first one started to come off until it snapped, so before trying the others as i still want to be able to drive the car i redid everything up and am thinking i may need to get an exhaust place to give it a go, is the only way to get the broken one out to take the turbo off, or are there any other tricks? and where would you guys recommend to go to get it sorted, such an easy job made difficult...

Upsetting to say the least. Depends how much stud if any is left sticking out of the turbo and also how accessible it is. If there is a bit of stud sticking out you could remove the dump pipe and get some vice grip pliers onto it but failing that you need to get an easyout onto it which means probably reomving the turbo cause you need enough room to get a drill in there. By the sounds of it though it won't be the only one to do that so probably gonna be better to remove the turbo. Are you fairly keen to learn about the in's and out's of your turbo setup? It's a good learning opportunity for you if you've got the time and basic knowledge (a friend with some experience is also good lol) but if not an exhaust place or mechanic is the best bet.

best plan of attack would be to soak the bolts in wd40

if you can get some on while the manifold is still warm then it helps sometime

and im pretty sure you will have to take the heat shields off for better access

go at the rest gently and hopefully you can get to the snapped stud without taking the turbo out

thanks, went to berkley and he said turbo out to get at it, although he didnt look at it, then went round to carline, and he said na not necessarily turbo out, he doesnt like easyouts. i left it with him and he heated the turbo and got it out, said all bolts were pretty stuffed, and then he said he had to adjust the front dump to make it fit, which prob was a good thing i let him do it! id definately recommend him to anyone who needs an exhaust specialist.

yeah i could have taken out the turbo myself, we have just done it to my bro 180, just thought i need my car nearly everyday, so to have a day to work on it and have something go wrong was soemthing i couldnt afford... if i did anything wrong... also i did have a highflow and new 02 put in at the same time

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, the latter. No diff should have a centre replaced without checking clearances because its unlikely to be the same as whatever came out. Not that that stops most people just checking a new centre in
    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
×
×
  • Create New...