Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r33 gtst getting......

gt3076r, power fc, z32, injectors, gtr fp, braided brake lines, k750 brake pads, shocks/springs/pineapples, greddy profec b. i miss my car sooo much, been carting around on dad's gutless fiesta, it's gonna be crazy jumping back into the 'new' r33 :yes:

r33 gtst getting......

gt3076r, power fc, z32, injectors, gtr fp, braided brake lines, k750 brake pads, shocks/springs/pineapples, greddy profec b. i miss my car sooo much, been carting around on dad's gutless fiesta, it's gonna be crazy jumping back into the 'new' r33 :thumbsup:

Good choice there mate i had the same turbo setup in my 33 when i was living in hobart!!! Goes bloody hard. Let me know how you go when you get her tuned up!

Cheers

Alan

New GReddy FMIC & Coilovers are on now woot woot :thumbsup: Lotsa new bits to come...

New paint & wheels also - Custom brakes, internals and turbo setup... Should be done within the next few months, can't wait!!

post-42468-1203574951_thumb.jpg

post-42468-1203574981_thumb.jpg

post-42468-1203575003_thumb.jpg

post-42468-1203575032_thumb.jpg

post-42468-1203575056_thumb.jpg

post-42468-1203575103_thumb.jpg

post-42468-1203575125_thumb.jpg

post-42468-1203575141_thumb.jpg

Good choice there mate i had the same turbo setup in my 33 when i was living in hobart!!! Goes bloody hard. Let me know how you go when you get her tuned up!

Cheers

Alan

what result did you get eg what power @ what psi. when did it hit full boost, how user freindly was it?

which exhaust housing was it

car tuned again tonight. found the turbo had a leaking oil seal. oil through out the coolerpiping and intercooler. yay. blows smoke like thomas the tank engine.

still going to run this weekends drift day but we left the 5psi boost it had. i need to sort it by next weekend thoe for drift australia.

rb25de+t is an orsome combo. very pleased i did it.

what result did you get eg what power @ what psi. when did it hit full boost, how user freindly was it?

which exhaust housing was it

Hi mate,

Had the .82 houseing on it!

Max power had it up to was about 283rwkw on 18-19psi and full boost about 3900-4000rpm (big cams). Need a surge tank setup and would have made 300. But that was on a built motor aswell.

As for user friendly there is not such thing! In the wet forget up touch boost unless your ready to hang on!

But other than that its a great turbo and in the dry if you drive it right its great!

Probably got a couple of old dyno sheets some where!

I think the guy that bought the car off me has a heap that i left in the car to!

But let me know how you go with it

Cheers

ALan

i had some dash plastics on the rx7 retrimmed to block off some useless controls (heater, cd, ashtray, lighter etc). looks heaps better than the scratchy plastic coating that used to be on display. going to fill the stezza din space with that sheet of carbon and mount some switches and the fc commander on it.

dash1.jpg

dash2.jpg

i had some dash plastics on the rx7 retrimmed to block off some useless controls (heater, cd, ashtray, lighter etc). looks heaps better than the scratchy plastic coating that used to be on display. going to fill the stezza din space with that sheet of carbon and mount some switches and the fc commander on it.

dash1.jpg

dash2.jpg

Looks like some more quality work by Griffo, i really need to get my seats to him to show them some love :P

are you sure your not biulding a show car? haha

djrift - haha, just wanted to make what does go back in is as neat as possible.

gmb - yeah hes pretty hand with this stuff.

ps. my new twin turbos arrived today, not gonna do a single conversion for a coupla years.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys well my car has been off the road now for about 4 months im doing the rb25det head to rb30et bottom end rebuild, my car was lacking power so i stripped the whole rb25det engine down and found 6 cracked pistons, bought a complete rb30 engine from the wreckers for about 350 dollars striped that down, sent my block do get acid cleaned, bored, and honed

Im waiting on my head to get back from getting a rebuild and my crankshaft pulley,clutch,flywheel,cranshaft,rods and pistons from getting balanced one i get that back we can start building my engine

i got a complete rebuild kit to suit the engine im building this includes

1mm ACL MLS Headgasket

Forged 20 thou oversized CP Pistons

Precision H-Beam Rods

Bearings,Gaskets,seals

other items i have bought to date include

Apexi Power FC

T3/T4 turbo

Extreme heavy duty clutch

Extreme light weight chrome-molly flywheel

aftermarket smaller crankshaft pulley

Walbro fuel pump

fuel regulator

items i need to finish the job

N1 oil pump

M1 water pump

thermo fan

surge tank

740cc nismo injectors

surge tank

oil catch can

split fire coil packs

Q45 throttle body

Q45 airflow meter

Plazmaman plenum or greddy plenum

new pipework

cant wait to its finally finished missing it already hoping to get around the 300rwkw mark so far it has cost me alot of money and time but in the end i hope it will be worth it

im doing the 25/30 thing at the moment. It will be nice to have more torque over the 25.

Yeah it gets expensive fast. My bottom end was over 8K to have built. But my goal is a little more than 300kw as my 25 made 399kw

Good luck with it anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the clearest explanation out of those: Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension. Basically you turn the engine with the tensioner bolt loose, then use the allen key to hold it while you torque it up. And yes after that a good guide is being able to twist it 90o in one of the long free lengths of the belt
    • good choice....I have a set of those and use them all the time including on this job. Plus, no-one wants a damaged nipple
    • Thanks all, went with nismo strengthened belt and all genuine nissan idler and tensioner Question on RB25DET Neo Timing Tensioner: I have a question about the RB25DET Neo timing tensioner. In one of the videos (minute 20 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17y37BB9xnA and minute 27 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pb99s2E9xUg), the process suggests tightening the tensioner pulley installation bolt to the specified torque initially, and then loosening it slightly to allow the spring to set the correct tension. Is this the correct approach? The R33 workshop manual on page 74 states: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. The way this is written is confusing. Does this mean: Undo the nut, then reduce the tension by turning clockwise? Snug the nut so it stays in position without applying tension to the belt while removing the timing belt? The manual wording makes it sound like the nut will tighten automatically when you turn the tensioner clockwise , which is unclear to me.   Timing Belt Tension Adjustment Process: After loosening the tensioner nut, you turn the engine two full rotations by hand, which should set the correct tension. Once the tension is set, you tighten the bolt to 43 N·m (4.4 kg·m). Before tightening, you need to insert the Allen key into the hexagonal hole to hold the pulley in place while tightening the bolt. In one of the videos, it’s mentioned that you should twist the belt side to side, or turn it slightly to check if the tension is correct. The belt should turn halfway, indicating the right tension. However, I know that twisting or turning the belt is not a good idea. What are your thoughts on this? Finally, how can I ensure the belt isn’t overtightened? I’ve seen many cases where people have overtightened the timing belt.   Manual Excerpts: Page 74: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. Remove the timing belt from each pulley. Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension.
    • Takes a few minutes to malke one. Wood, or steel, or a wrap strap with some strategically placed solids to provide teh drive onto the ribs.
    • I would strongly suggest using the correct tool. They are not expensive and make the job much easier and don't damage the lock ring. Google "fuel tank lock ring removal tool" to see what I'm talking about. 
×
×
  • Create New...